What do you use for chrome? Show your work.

[ctruss53]

Ok, I started talking in another thread about Rust Oleum chrome spray paint. I thought it would be best to just request ideas with photo examples of the work.

What do you use for chrome?

Molotov sucks in my experience. But I have not tried the refill bottle and applying with an air brush yet.

Green Stuff world works great, but you can't touch it. So I only use it on small parts.

Alclad Chrome, SMS Hyperchrome, and Rustoleum Chrome all seem to work ok, but again You can't touch them. They finish dulls, or the Rustoleum can even flake off.

Bare Metal Foil works for body trim, but I need something for small parts, tubes, and other random pieces that would just be a pain to BMF.

So, what do you use? How do you use it? Can you clear coat it for protection? If so, what do you clear it with?

And please show me your results.

[espo]

I have started to use Gundam Markers for small detail parts. Like the Molotov pins but much better finish and easier to work with. Most hobby store will carry them, and they offer many different colors as well.  

[jaymcminn]

Molotow chrome airbrushed from the refill bottle is fantastic for large surfaces. I also apply it with a brush for small areas. I don't like the pen applicator at all. If it's allowed to dry for several days before handling it is more durable, but it will always be fragile. In my experience it's also the best match to touch up attachment points and mold lines on kit chrome. Below is my Monogram Mercedes 540k. The grille shell (other than the actual grille surface), side pipes and the headlights are airbrushed Molotow. 

 

When brushed, Molotow is great for fine details. The vents and chrome trim on this Ebbro Citroen DS21 were done using a 10/0 brush. I can't imagine trying to foil this.

[ctruss53]

59 minutes ago, jaymcminn said:

Molotow chrome airbrushed from the refill bottle is fantastic for large surfaces. I also apply it with a brush for small areas. I don't like the pen applicator at all. If it's allowed to dry for several days before handling it is more durable, but it will always be fragile. In my experience it's also the best match to touch up attachment points and mold lines on kit chrome. Below is my Monogram Mercedes 540k. The grille shell (other than the actual grille surface), side pipes and the headlights are airbrushed Molotow. 

 

When brushed, Molotow is great for fine details. The vents and chrome trim on this Ebbro Citroen DS21 were done using a 10/0 brush. I can't imagine trying to foil this.

Great work!  I have a Molotow refill bottle on the way right now. I'll try airbrushing it when I get it.

I always alow anything I spray paint plenty of time to dry.  Even lacquer paints that I use on the body, I'll wait at least 48 hours before I do anything like clear coat or polish. If I have time, I'll even wait a week.  So waiting for chrome to cure is no problem.

I have only applied Molotow with the marker up until now. And just like Green Stuff World Chrome when it is brushed on, you have to lay it on thick. I always wondered if this is why fingerprints affect it so much. And if it is airbrushed on, it is thinner, can cure better, and thus would be a little more resistant to damage.

Can I ask, how did you apply the Molotow with an airbrush? Light coats until it looked right? A light coat, and then a wet coat?

[TransAmMike]

I spray the Molotow from the refill and unlike some others who knock it I can't complain. I just shoot a good medium coat on and have also done so with another coat with good results. Do let it dry for several days and avoid touching the surface as much as possible. I use a cotton glove when handling the part and got no dulling. 

[NOBLNG]

3 hours ago, jaymcminn said:

Molotow chrome airbrushed from the refill bottle is fantastic for large surfaces.

 

12 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

I spray the Molotow from the refill and unlike some others who knock it I can't complain. I just shoot a good medium coat on and have also done so with another coat with good results. Do let it dry for several days and avoid touching the surface as much as possible. I use a cotton glove when handling the part and got no dulling. 

I just picked up a Molotow refill, but haven’t sprayed any yet. Does it matter what you spray it on top of? Primer or black paint or??? Thanks!

[Dpate]

2 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

Great work!  I have a Molotow refill bottle on the way right now. I'll try airbrushing it when I get it.

I always alow anything I spray paint plenty of time to dry.  Even lacquer paints that I use on the body, I'll wait at least 48 hours before I do anything like clear coat or polish. If I have time, I'll even wait a week.  So waiting for chrome to cure is no problem.

I have only applied Molotow with the marker up until now. And just like Green Stuff World Chrome when it is brushed on, you have to lay it on thick. I always wondered if this is why fingerprints affect it so much. And if it is airbrushed on, it is thinner, can cure better, and thus would be a little more resistant to damage.

Can I ask, how did you apply the Molotow with an airbrush? Light coats until it looked right? A light coat, and then a wet coat?

Green stuff world has two versions of there chrome one for airbrush & one for paint brush.  AK's super chrome is better than molotow in my opinion, and it can be brushed or airbrushed as well, but I'm not a fan of it so i just use it for detail work.  Alclad chrome isn't that sensitive to where you can't buff it or touch it lol.  Alclad, Kustom service, green stuff world, AK super chrome, spazstix, AK Xtreme chrome, gia notes silver plate, etc etc the list can go on, and on, and on.  All chrome paint is sensitive, and isn't the most durable, and can not be clear coated or else you'll lose the shine.  The most durable though that I've used is Kustom service, and Spazstix, and you spray pretty much all of them the same 12-15PSI nice mist coats.   If you go chrome chasing, and test them all, and spray them properly you'll realize there all bout the same just one might be a tad brighter than the other.  

[Dpate]

3 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

 

I just picked up a Molotow refill, but haven’t sprayed any yet. Does it matter what you spray it on top of? Primer or black paint or??? Thanks!

As it being a ink and bout the same as super chrome from AK you can spray it over anything and it'll chrome up lol.

[Dpate]

You could also get this is you want the best durable and bang for your buck. Sells off etsy.

[ctruss53]

2 minutes ago, Dpate said:

Green stuff world has two versions of there chrome one for airbrush & one for paint brush.  AK's super chrome is better than molotow in my opinion, and it can be brushed or airbrushed as well, but I'm not a fan of it so i just use it for detail work.  Alclad chrome isn't that sensitive to where you can't buff it or touch it lol.  Alclad, Kustom service, green stuff world, AK super chrome, spazstix, AK Xtreme chrome, gia notes silver plate, etc etc the list can go on, and on, and on.  All chrome paint is sensitive, and isn't the most durable, and can not be clear coated or else you'll lose the shine.  The most durable though that I've used is Kustom service, and Spazstix, and you spray pretty much all of them the same 12-15PSI nice mist coats.   If you go chrome chasing, and test them all, and spray them properly you'll realize there all bout the same just one might be a tad brighter than the other.  

I am learning this as I apply more and more chrome paints. I have also tried Spaz Stix. But I got the spray cans. That was a mistake. The spray cans are expensive and the results were not much better than silver paint. So I am scared to try Spaz Stix for the airbrush.

Alclad got close.

SMS Hyperchrome got close.

My experience with Molotov is limited only to the markers and I wasn't happy. I have a refill bottle on the way so I can try airbrushing it.

I didn't know AK made a chrome. I really like AK products, so I might have to give them a go.

And Alclad makes a clearcoat they claim you can use on chrome paints. We will see about that. I have a bottle on the way.

I also tried Uschi van der Rosten chrome powder that you polish into a black basecoat. It gave me the shinyest, most realistic looking metal results, but it wasn't bright. The black showed through too much.  I revisited their site and found out there is an uncenventional application method, so I did it wrong. So I am going to try that stuff again.

[ctruss53]

2 minutes ago, Dpate said:

You could also get this is you want the best durable and bang for your buck. Sells off etsy.

I can't see the whole name. What is that called?

[jaymcminn]

2 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

Great work!  I have a Molotow refill bottle on the way right now. I'll try airbrushing it when I get it.

I always alow anything I spray paint plenty of time to dry.  Even lacquer paints that I use on the body, I'll wait at least 48 hours before I do anything like clear coat or polish. If I have time, I'll even wait a week.  So waiting for chrome to cure is no problem.

I have only applied Molotow with the marker up until now. And just like Green Stuff World Chrome when it is brushed on, you have to lay it on thick. I always wondered if this is why fingerprints affect it so much. And if it is airbrushed on, it is thinner, can cure better, and thus would be a little more resistant to damage.

Can I ask, how did you apply the Molotow with an airbrush? Light coats until it looked right? A light coat, and then a wet coat?

As long as your base is smooth, Molotow is surprisingly unfussy as to how it's airbrushed. It doesn't need any sort of thinning at all. I apply much as you would apply metalizer- 15psi and 2 medium coats. I applied this over polished bare kit plastic and it laid down perfectly!

[Dpate]

17 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

I am learning this as I apply more and more chrome paints. I have also tried Spaz Stix. But I got the spray cans. That was a mistake. The spray cans are expensive and the results were not much better than silver paint. So I am scared to try Spaz Stix for the airbrush.

Alclad got close.

SMS Hyperchrome got close.

My experience with Molotov is limited only to the markers and I wasn't happy. I have a refill bottle on the way so I can try airbrushing it.

I didn't know AK made a chrome. I really like AK products, so I might have to give them a go.

And Alclad makes a clearcoat they claim you can use on chrome paints. We will see about that. I have a bottle on the way.

I also tried Uschi van der Rosten chrome powder that you polish into a black basecoat. It gave me the shinyest, most realistic looking metal results, but it wasn't bright. The black showed through too much.  I revisited their site and found out there is an uncenventional application method, so I did it wrong. So I am going to try that stuff again.

Yeah that clear coat will dull the finish.  Spaz Stix for airbrush will give you much much better results than the can version.  Do you still got your molotow markers? You can always open them and pour out the paint into something like a 10ml bottle like tamiya a new one.  I spray all my normal chrome paints over alclad gloss black base, but if you want the best shine you'd need 2K clear over base coat. 

16 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

I can't see the whole name. What is that called?

 Duralumen Chrome

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, jaymcminn said:

As long as your base is smooth, Molotow is surprisingly unfussy as to how it's airbrushed. It doesn't need any sort of thinning at all. I apply much as you would apply metalizer- 15psi and 2 medium coats. I applied this over polished bare kit plastic and it laid down perfectly!

Ditto on this. Just a little goes a long way for small parts. I have sprayed on resin wheels and bumpers. 

Again tho, let it dry several days and very little handling. Use a cotton glove if you are gonna touch it. 

[Miatatom]

I watched a video last night on Barbatos Rex's YouTube channel. He sprayed some Dspiae Chrome Silver Marker from their 10ml refill bottle and it's the best chrome I've seen. It's out of stock though.

 

[crowe-t]

On 3/3/2023 at 5:02 PM, Dpate said:

Yeah that clear coat will dull the finish.  Spaz Stix for airbrush will give you much much better results than the can version.  Do you still got your molotow markers? You can always open them and pour out the paint into something like a 10ml bottle like tamiya a new one.  I spray all my normal chrome paints over alclad gloss black base, but if you want the best shine you'd need 2K clear over base coat. 

 Duralumen Chrome

How durable is the Duralumen Chrome?  Have you used clear coat over it?

[StevenGuthmiller]

The problem with all of these chrome substitutes is that they all have the same basic characteristics.

By that I mean none of them are particularly durable, and most will dull with the application of a protective clear coat, so it's pretty much a catch 22.

Some seem to be a little more durable than others, and some are just awful in that regard,

I don't know how anyone can adequately detail a grille for example, and maybe a grille badge, as the more you handle most of these products, the more messed up they get.

 

The only product that I've heard of that has consistently been touted as durable to the extent of being anything approaching real chrome, is ALSA "Easy Chrome".

Of course this product is quite expensive, but I for one will be willing to shell out some cash if a "true" solution for chrome is available, rather than these "half measures" that we have with all of these other products.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited March 29, 2024 by StevenGuthmiller

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 3/3/2023 at 11:49 AM, jaymcminn said:

The vents and chrome trim on this Ebbro Citroen DS21 were done using a 10/0 brush. I can't imagine trying to foil this.

Nearly all of the trim on this dash board has been foiled, with the exception of a few separate parts which were sprayed with Alclad.

It can be done.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[bobss396]

I gave Spaz Stix a go some years back, it would have to be covered with a clear or else it will not withstand any handling. I think it is made to be used on the inside of RC car bodies that are clear. Al Clad too, I tried it a few times but don't drag out the airbrush too often.

I have been using Duplicolor Chrome spray cans and I'm happy-ish with it. I have used it on gasser grilles and bumpers mostly and on '62 Ford bumpers.

[NOBLNG]

27 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

I have been using Duplicolor Chrome spray cans and I'm happy-ish with it. I have used it on gasser grilles and bumpers mostly and on '62 Ford bumpers.

Is this the stuff? Any pics of it?

Edited March 29, 2024 by NOBLNG

[bobss396]

23 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Is this the stuff? Any pics of it?

That is it, I will post something when I get a chance. It looks pretty decent, IMO. I'd like to try the new Revell one.

[Bugatti Fan]

C1 polishing powder works well over gloss black for the best effect. It is quite durable when handled afterwards compared to other chromes. Used over other gloss colours will yield different effects.

Edited March 31, 2024 by Bugatti Fan

[atomicholiday]

A few of us did some tests with fingernail powders a while back.  See here:

https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/171639-finger-nail-powder-chrome-works-great/.

My trials were promising.  The product was very durable, but too thick to brush on.  Airbrushing might do the trick though.  I just wasn't set up to do it at the time.

[Big_John]

Regarding the Duplicolor "chrome" paint. 

I bought a can of Duplicolor for the reflective surface on some tail light housings for one of my old Chryslers. Worked great for that and I had most of the can left, so I tried it on a 3D printed Chrysler 300 Hurst I've been building. 

It looked OK, still kind of polished aluminum rather than chrome looking, but good enough for this build. 

Here was the problem....   I superglued the front bumper in place and because the hood was up in the middle slightly, I put a little thick superglue between the bumper and grille and squeezed it down with my fingers... And then I hit it with some kicker...   And it immediately ruined the chrome paint on the top of the bumper. 

So... The plan is to mask it and touch it up.  I want to try to decant some from the spray can and use my airbrush as I can control it better, but I'm thinking it might be too thick to spray. The can has a wide pattern spray that was OK with my real tail light housings, but it's a bit much for the model bumper.