Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

"There's no wrong way to build one," is the term most often associated with these because they were individually built by resourceful people according to need and parts availability. But before starting you have to pre-imagine the need and era; barnyard helper or field plow, 20's or 50's, cared for or trashed.

Example1.jpg.fe238761b50445070a6eae041f60a11c.jpg  Example2.jpg.0bf20463d82cb60156bd010d865dbe31.jpg

Example3.jpg.7f9871dfeba2785db2732fad53770abc.jpg

 

Fortunately, there are several currently or recently available Model T kits, especially when they come in 2-in-1 kits. I pulled this one from my stash because it offers some extra farm based parts.

1671448825_StartingKit.jpeg.7d4fe7d25847dc293017d7605b80a262.jpeg

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The drive wheels is the achilles heal of the project and it sort of determined what kind of vehicle I would build. I didn't like anything I could readily find on toy vehicles. In the spirit of the project I didn't want to invest the time, money and delays in finding the perfect choice online. I have no vintage truck wheels among my parts so I'm building my own, which means I guess my doodlebug will be a tractor.

The article on how to build one HERE recommends modifying the Model T's existing wheels, but wood spokes seem a little light duty to me so I'm making iron wheels.

Edited by Lunajammer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I established a diameter of about 1-1/4 inch and scrounged the house for plastic circles that size. Bottle caps offer the most size options for rims but once I started cutting and working them, it occurred to me that the plastic is the same material they make glue caps out of. Might not be good to glue things to.

Then I went to a plastic bottle that had better plastic but was too thin and flimsy once cut. Then I went to my first preference, PVC pipe, but it looked way too thick and out of scale.

OutterRimAttempts.jpeg.16f15c29384bd701df4977aa69866664.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Digging deeper I found another (1-inch inside diameter) PVC pipe designed for less pressure, which means thinner walls and more scale appropriate. An excellent development.

PVCRimChoice.jpeg.8fa511c31bb2501ab22856f0dbf383e0.jpeg

 

I gave a lot of thought to how I would build the rest of the rim when I remembered I've had these steampunk gears in the parts box for a couple years. They seem to be an excellent answer to make the wheels and there are a variety of choices. Problem is you only get one of each variety so I had to shop for another pack. Meant for scrapbooking, they are metal, but paper thin. I struggled with whether I could live with that.

 

SteampunkGears1.jpeg.0e19d2a43f0a0d0b977ab8a6e3fea74d.jpeg

 

Naturally, the store I bought them from a couple years ago (Joann's) no longer carries them. It's a fabric and craft store, so I walked the isles looking for alternatives when among the buttons I came across this packet on the right. Looked like pretty good prospects but I then went to Hobby Lobby, still trying to match the steampunk gears when I came across the packet on the left and each packet contains at least two of the same shape. One of these two should work.

WheelPartsPacks.jpeg.55acf9f6f633a843f4b928419db22466.jpeg

 

WheelCoices.jpeg.140e547deb0a4fa26858bc9b9dbb53cc.jpeg

Edited by Lunajammer
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just chose a random width for the wheel which is a scale foot, so half inch slice. Using the circle guide on my cutting mat, I marked off spacing for ten cleats on each wheel. 

MarkingForTreads.jpeg.607c1329e32a705829bec21f22b7102d.jpeg

 

UnassembledWheelParts.jpeg.bd27ad7cdee3336d877db90d57297a58.jpeg

 

The buttons only needed to be sanded down slightly to fit inside the PVC. They fit just snug enough that I could adjust as needed without them falling out. VERY important to keep remembering is that the wheels are directional so I had to keep double checking that the cleats faced the right direction.

 

DirectionalCleats.jpeg.e69c68e081f1981f76b1266e81dde672.jpeg

 

The angle strips measure a scale 3-inches deep, which seemed appropriate, but felt a little aggressive. However compared to the photo above, it still seems right. These wheels were completed in one modeling session and I'm giddy with happiness. They were so important to the look of this project and ended up being so easy and relatively quick (less than two hours at distracted turtle speed).

 

WheelsMinusHubs.jpeg.02ccf29cfdf1e170e24688b7433e99b0.jpeg

 

This is pretty much the hard part. The rest is just cutting and gluing on the rest of the kit.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, stavanzer said:

I might try to get a packet of those LaMode Gears.

They're like plastic but they sand like resin, dry and dusty. Might be a sort of resin. I didn't try styrene glue on it, I just measured them into where I wanted then wicked in super glue.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great start! I love the way you did your wheels, I might have to borrow that idea. I've helped revive alot of these old Doodlebugs over the years with my father. He has a soft spot for them, it's what they had to use as kid. He still looks for them to restore to working condition and even has on he still uses today. Here's a few pics of my father when he was a kid on a couple of his and the small pic is my Grandfather & his brother. 

IMG_1057.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mchook said:

Here's a few pics

The pics are great! What a fond memory for both you and your dad and restoring them would be a very enjoyable hobby because it's purely mechanical and it's not critical or imperative anymore that you get it fixed. Just a leisure hobby. Unless, of course, you're doing it for someone else. I'd never seen one in my life until just a couple years ago at a steamthreshers reunion. Love the pic of your gramps.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got to finalize the wheels, needs hubs.

Again, I scrounged the house looking for bits and bobs. I started with a pen cap. It's interesting, but again, it's soft plastic like glue bottle caps. Glue might not stick. Not throwing it away yet, it's still interesting.

WheelHubAttempt1.jpeg.c98f3d53ccb4d4e39c826a2a3ab55146.jpeg

 

When in doubt, KISS. The hubs from the remaining Model T wheels fit the hole perfectly. There's a little suspension of logic here, lots of bolt heads on this wheel, but I'm free-wheeling here. Problem solved.

 

WheelHubAttempt2.jpeg.cf3b15839b1e2020053cbbb67ef1e618.jpeg

 

At this point, I feel like if I never complete this project beyond this point, I will have at least contributed a cool wheel idea to this forum.

 

 

Edited by Lunajammer
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The doodlebug tractors that I see have shortened wheelbases and the look I want will replicate that. I removed the muffler, which is exactly 1/2-inch (one scale foot) and also that much of the frame. It didn't feel short enough so I took another 1/4-inch more out.

 

ChassisSectioned.jpeg.5f3848297a61a6104e699db0513702af.jpeg

 

Which quickly brings me to the first mock up.

 

ChassisMockUp1.jpeg.b21cf49d97abf4f13f7a33dd6ab4fc08.jpeg

 

That feels right, so I shortened the drive shaft and support rods to fit, salvaging the shaft's front flange.

One of the AMT Fruit Wagon options is a custom cab, which includes just a cowl and windshield. Good. Now I don't have to cut up the kit's runabout body. Don't need the windshield. I don't want the full hood either, so I cut off the sides to reveal the engine, but if I'm driving this, I still want the cover.

 

BodyPartsCut.jpeg.bd8f7e4dba08d0a81018ad4657d7bd21.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fun with paint and washes.

1971932321_PaintedParts.jpeg.0890b6ddf0796cc3b05a14a421601d0f.jpeg

 

As usual, I'm getting distracted with some unnecessary details, but when I saw this Model T belt drive accessory, I decided my doodlebug should have one. I scrounged a bunch of parts, including two 49 Ford hubcaps. Obviously it's not dead on accurate but I think it will look the part. I still need a pulley and some minor details.

1316554027_ModelTBeltDrive2.c800x600.jpg.9ff16aa2e0844ee0805bc145346426ae.jpg

 

111901099_BeltDriveParts2.jpeg.c7bb3de10fd38051b9743af795c6ede1.jpeg

 

1175909839_BeltDrive1.jpeg.b19b5869caf5a72d059eef71b5b50617.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was a kid there were the remains of one of these out in the bush by our house although not sure it was a Model T. All that was left was just a frame (shortened like this) engine block and welded to the front a PTO housing very close to what you are making. Figured the only reason these parts were still there were that they were just to heavy to pull out so remained after everything else had been stripped.  Such a cool subject!

Edited by Tcoat
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the memories you guys are sharing here. Too bad I'd never even heard of these until I joined this forum. There was a CBP here about ten years ago that you can find if you search but last time I checked a lot of photos were either damaged or had broken links.

Looks like I won't get much bench time the rest of this week. Rats, I like to work when there's momentum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Lunajammer said:

Fun with paint and washes.

1971932321_PaintedParts.jpeg.0890b6ddf0796cc3b05a14a421601d0f.jpeg

 

As usual, I'm getting distracted with some unnecessary details, but when I saw this Model T belt drive accessory, I decided my doodlebug should have one. I scrounged a bunch of parts, including two 49 Ford hubcaps. Obviously it's not dead on accurate but I think it will look the part. I still need a pulley and some minor details.

1316554027_ModelTBeltDrive2.c800x600.jpg.9ff16aa2e0844ee0805bc145346426ae.jpg

 

111901099_BeltDriveParts2.jpeg.c7bb3de10fd38051b9743af795c6ede1.jpeg

 

1175909839_BeltDrive1.jpeg.b19b5869caf5a72d059eef71b5b50617.jpeg

Great Scratch Building!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Minor update: I cut the shaft off a plastic gear from a printer I tore apart to use as the pulley on the PTO, then finished up construction on that little thing. Also did a little more weathering on body parts using mostly thinned artist oils and a touch of acrylics.

1109325922_PTOGearShaft.jpeg.03f6240bd04cac7491d74678cde954d3.jpeg

 

1235991911_PTOAssembled1.jpeg.57d475decdefd2a92b92660b7a5d635c.jpeg

 

2096669142_PTOAssembled2.jpeg.1ab98daf15583f81acc12067e92958b6.jpeg

 

Weathering.jpeg.2a82f3a229263b7d60042785bf9078da.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...