Rust-oleum Issues?

[Anglia105E]

I am intending to use two Rust-oleum paint products later this week, and I am curious to hear if any fellow MCM Forum members have experienced any issues with what I intend to do . . . I have Rust-oleum Plastic Primer White, and also Rust-oleum Spa Blue Gloss, and these paints will be applied to a Frog (Triang) 1:16 scale Ford Consul Cortina (motorised) kit . . . This extremely rare model car kit was produced in 1962, so it is 60 years old. I am worried that modern primer paints might react with 60 year old plastic, and not in a good way. My local store does have a good range of Rust-oleum products, and I think I am right in saying that this brand is more widely used in the US than it is in the UK and Europe . . . I might even be using a custom mixed cellulose paint over the Rust-oleum white primer, according to the correct Ford paint colour code for a 1963 car, which is Lagoon Blue.

Any thoughts and opinions are much appreciated guys, as always !

David

[ctruss53]

Primers are usually pretty safe.

If you are concerned about the paint coming out well on an old and rare kit though, I would very highly suggest getting hobby primers and paints. Tamiya makes a great white primer, and they sell a very similar blue in the TS spray paint line.

I am not saying you bought the wrong paint. However I am saying that if you get Tamiya primer and spray paint you will greatly improve your chance at a great paint job.

[Anglia105E]

14 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

Primers are usually pretty safe.

If you are concerned about the paint coming out well on an old and rare kit though, I would very highly suggest getting hobby primers and paints. Tamiya makes a great white primer, and they sell a very similar blue in the TS spray paint line.

I am not saying you bought the wrong paint. However I am saying that if you get Tamiya primer and spray paint you will greatly improve your chance at a great paint job.

Thank you Chad, and I understand the point that you are making . . . The way to go might be to use hobby paints such as Tamiya, that are specifically produced for plastic / styrene models, rather than automotive paints (e.g. the cellulose) or even the Rust-oleum.

I shall continue to think about this before taking the plunge !

David

[Ace-Garageguy]

You really have to be careful with non-model primers.

Reading the label, I see it states "superior adhesion" on a variety of plastics, but polystyrene isn't among them.

Many primers achieve "superior adhesion" by incorporating very aggressive "hot" solvents, and will instantly craze many kit plastics. Badly.

The damage can usually be repaired, but it takes considerable effort.

At the very least, TEST that primer on a large area that won't be seen before you use it on that very rare model.

Test it ON THAT PARTICILAR MODEL, as testing on something else, like the ever popular spoons, won't tell you diddly.

 

 

 

[bobthehobbyguy]

Besides the crazing issues Rustoleum is notorious for never drying.

Personally if it was me I'd use Tamiya paints( not the rc paint) for primer, color coat, and clear. It's bad enough to mess up a regular kit you don't want to take chances with a rare kit.

 

 

Edited June 5, 2023 by bobthehobbyguy
Added link

[Anglia105E]

25 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

You really have to be careful with non-model primers.

Reading the label, I see it states "superior adhesion" on a variety of plastics, but polystyrene isn't among them.

Many primers achieve "superior adhesion" by incorporating very aggressive "hot" solvents, and will instantly craze many kit plastics. Badly.

The damage can usually be repaired, but it takes considerable effort.

At the very least, TEST that primer on a large area that won't be seen before you use it on that very rare model.

Test it ON THAT PARTICILAR MODEL, as testing on something else, like the ever popular spoons, won't tell you diddly.

 

 

 

Thanks Bill . . . You are the man ! . . . Certainly, it is the ' hot ' solvents that concern me the most. I shall be testing paints on the underside of a hidden part before applying on the topside, and it must be the actual plastic of the old kit (not the usual spoon test). 

Cheers, David

[H.A.K]

My lil girls pink caddie had issues with a pink paint from that CO. The paint kept praying think bobbles, that we had to keep sanding and repainting.  But I use Rust-oleum all the time. That was the 1st time running into that issue.

[Ace-Garageguy]

4 minutes ago, H.A.K said:

 ...The paint kept praying think bobbles...

I hate when that happens.   

[Anglia105E]

39 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

Besides the crazing issues Rustoleum is notorious for never drying.

Personally if it was me I'd use Tamiya paints( not the rc paint) for primer, color coat, and clear. It's bad enough to mess up a regular kit you don't want to take chances with a rare kit.

 

 

Thank you Bob . . . I did read all of the comments in your thread ' Rustoleum paints are terrible ', and it made interesting reading too.

The one comment that stands out for me, was that Painter's Touch has primer already contained within the paint, and that if you apply the Painter's Touch Gloss over the Rust-oleum Plastic Primer White it will go bad on you.

This is what really concerns me, and I am extremely hesitant to go anywhere near my 60 year old rare model Cortina kit by Frog, with these Rust-oleum products.

David

[Chariots of Fire]

Don't bother with it.  Not a good model paint by any standard.

[Anglia105E]

Based on helpful replies that I have received so far, I am leaning towards Tamiya white primer and a Tamiya gloss blue topcoat, whichever shade of blue looks closest to the original 1:1 car . . .

I have previously always used Halfords Grey Primer, and then Automotive Paints Cellulose for full sized pre - 1960's cars.

David

[Anglia105E]

4 minutes ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Don't bother with it.  Not a good model paint by any standard.

Thank you Charles . . . Sound advice from one who knows !

David

[bobthehobbyguy]

It always pays to ask questions before you do something. Too often we get asked after the damage is done.

Glad I could help.

[Anglia105E]

5 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

It always pays to ask questions before you do something. Too often we get asked after the damage is done.

Glad I could help.

Cheers, and thanks again.

David

[Bugatti Fan]

I use Halfords grey and white primers and found them to be good.

What I would like to know is why you are considering cellulose top coat paint? I would steer well clear of using it on plastic kits of any age. Most automotive aerosols nowadays are acrylic based paints that should be good for use on plastics.

A look on the internet should find you a company specialising in classic car colours that can make up a aerosol or bottle of touch up in any original factory colour.

[bluenote]

44 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Based on helpful replies that I have received so far, I am leaning towards Tamiya white primer and a Tamiya gloss blue topcoat, whichever shade of blue looks closest to the original 1:1 car . . .

I have previously always used Halfords Grey Primer, and then Automotive Paints Cellulose for full sized pre - 1960's cars.

David

I think Tamiya TS-10 French Blue or TS-23 Light Blue would be a good match

 

[Classicgas]

I use duplicolor primer/ filler exclusively. I spray 2 or 3 mist coats before I spray wet coats.bi used it on a Aurora 63 Aston Martin which was a sealed kit from that year and had no issues.

[Anglia105E]

45 minutes ago, Bugatti Fan said:

I use Halfords grey and white primers and found them to be good.

What I would like to know is why you are considering cellulose top coat paint? I would steer well clear of using it on plastic kits of any age. Most automotive aerosols nowadays are acrylic based paints that should be good for use on plastics.

A look on the internet should find you a company specialising in classic car colours that can make up a aerosol or bottle of touch up in any original factory colour.

I agree Noel that Halfords Grey, White and Red Primers are all good, and I have used them a great deal. Even the Black Primer was great.

What makes me nervous with this Cortina kit from 1962 is the uncertainty of what will happen with any new paint mix.

The company that I use for custom mixed aerosols is Automotive Paints, Brighton and they provide me with a 400 ml can that is precidely mixed to the paint code, usually Rolls-Royce cars, and is cellulose because they are 1955 - 1959 cars.

As long as the primer is coating the plastic, the cellulose paint does not harm the plastic. I have many finished Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud models to prove it.

This Ford Consul Cortina does not necessarily need to be cellulose, as it is a 1963 colour code.

I am leaning towards Tamiya primer and topcoat at the moment. Appreciate your comments Noel, thanks.

David

[Anglia105E]

56 minutes ago, bluenote said:

I think Tamiya TS-10 French Blue or TS-23 Light Blue would be a good match

 

Many thanks bluenote . . . I shall have a look at both of those colours !

David

[Anglia105E]

30 minutes ago, Classicgas said:

I use duplicolor primer/ filler exclusively. I spray 2 or 3 mist coats before I spray wet coats.bi used it on a Aurora 63 Aston Martin which was a sealed kit from that year and had no issues.

Thank you Lee, but I have not seen Duplicolour paints for sale in UK ?  Sounds like your 1963 kit was fine with that paint.

David

[Bugatti Fan]

Thanks for the feed back David

If the cellulose works for you, that's good. 

What is intriguing me by your reply is why you have so many Rolls Royce Silver Cloud models?  The only plastic kitted Rolls Silver Cloud? saloon I can think of is that very old Hubley one that was re popped by another manufacturer a few years back. It was quite a basic kit as I can remember and quite crude in places. 

Incidentally, how are you building the old Frog Cortina? Standard saloon or modified?

I think that there has been a big debate about Rustoleum paint in another thread on here.

Edited June 5, 2023 by Bugatti Fan

[Anglia105E]

32 minutes ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Thanks for the feed back David

If the cellulose works for you, that's good. 

What is intriguing me by your reply is why you have so many Rolls Royce Silver Cloud models?  The only plastic kitted Rolls Silver Cloud? saloon I can think of is that very old Hubley one that was re popped by another manufacturer a few years back. It was quite a basic kit as I can remember and quite crude in places. 

Incidentally, how are you building the old Frog Cortina? Standard saloon or modified?

I think that there has been a big debate about Rustoleum paint in another thread on here.

Well Noel . . . I tend to specialise in Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud I models, from 1955 - 1959, and there is a Minicraft kit in 1:24 scale, as well as the Revell version of the same kit. The Hubley kit was the first one that later became the Minicraft kit when they acquired the licence, which then passed to Revell Germany.

That Minicraft / Revell kit has only 26 parts, and as you say is quite crude really, but the overall body shape and proportions are actually very good.

By adding a lot of extra parts and many hours of work, I can build a Silver Cloud anywhere between 2 months and 7 months.

The old Frog Cortina will be built completely standard, as a replica of my Dad's car, with which he taught me to drive when I reached 17 ( now almost 70 ).

David

[yh70]

i been using Rust-oleum paints & primers for years with no problems. its just in a bigger can. shake it 3 minuets by the clock. mine always dried within a week but my hobby room and paint booth are inside

[Anglia105E]

8 minutes ago, yh70 said:

i been using Rust-oleum paints & primers for years with no problems. its just in a bigger can. shake it 3 minuets by the clock. mine always dried within a week but my hobby room and paint booth are inside

Thanks Dave, but it says on the can that this paint is touch dry in 20 minutes and hard dry in 24 hours . . . so I am surprised to hear one week ?

[Classicgas]

2 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Thank you Lee, but I have not seen Duplicolour paints for sale in UK ?  Sounds like your 1963 kit was fine with that paint.

David

Might be able to find it online.