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Posted (edited)

1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00014.jpg.98cae5bd7ed2c29c850cfcdfc807c655.jpgIMG_4303.jpg.8c0a8559b84ee9b8fc8777a43f4379e2.jpg

2 hours ago, Supernurd said:

That would be a good solution.  In reality the gauge is 3D in that the numerals are on the lens and the lines are behind the needles which are behind the lens.  This looks really cool especially when lit up.  To most people it probably doesn't matter, but the only reason I'm finicky about it is I made a bedroom clock out of one from a parts car and look at it every night!

 There's no way to do that at 1:25th scale. My only purpose would be to emulate the look of depth by recessing the faces and maybe a drop of CA on top of the faces. It could work ?

Edited by customline
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Posted

Here's my girl with a big smile for ya! (See below).  OK, the tail lights:  I cannot imagine any way to do this. Period.  They are just too small.  The outer ring is do-able but that's it. Am I wrong? 

And I get a laugh ( not a real one ☺️) from the instruction sheet which is here for your entertainment. So typical. Remember, this is a "stock only" kit. No custom parts. Well, except for those bullet-shaped lenses. Thanks for stopping by ! ?

IMG_4375.jpg.bbe9c869f7484ef4942e02eb22b95253.jpgIMG_4374.thumb.jpg.7187f778d8db79d64f73963c248a66f5.jpg1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00011.jpg.06012a017dabd068f5da9b9019b034e9.jpg20230710_220131.jpg.a46271d7ddff78126ed13c95da3b74f4.jpg

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, customline said:

Here's my girl with a big smile for ya! (See below).  OK, the tail lights:  I cannot imagine any way to do this. Period.  They are just too small.  The outer ring is do-able but that's it. Am I wrong? 

And I get a laugh ( not a real one ☺️) from the instruction sheet which is here for your entertainment. So typical. Remember, this is a "stock only" kit. No custom parts. Well, except for those bullet-shaped lenses. Thanks for stopping by ! ?

IMG_4375.jpg.bbe9c869f7484ef4942e02eb22b95253.jpgIMG_4374.thumb.jpg.7187f778d8db79d64f73963c248a66f5.jpg1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00011.jpg.06012a017dabd068f5da9b9019b034e9.jpg20230710_220131.jpg.a46271d7ddff78126ed13c95da3b74f4.jpg

The tooling for this kit was originally designed to be able to do both a showroom stock version and a custom version, the stock version was released under the AMT/ERTL name 2005, the custom version didn't come out until 2011 after Round 2 took over the AMT brand but both versions are from the same tooling and developed at the same time and that's why you can see a few custom parts in the stock kit and some stock parts in the custom kit.
Like the 1960 Ford Galaxie Starliner kit, the Edsel Pacer kit and the Chrysler 300C kit wich all are available as a stock version and a custom version, both versions of these kits share the tooling wich was designed and developed at the same time back in mid to late 1990's and together with this one they are among the last kits designed by AMT/ERTL before the company was sold to Racing Champions/RC2 in 1999.

Edited by Force
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Posted
6 hours ago, Force said:

The tooling for this kit was originally designed to be able to do both a showroom stock version and a custom version, the stock version was released under the AMT/ERTL name 2005, the custom version didn't come out until 2011 after Round 2 took over the AMT brand but both versions are from the same tooling and developed at the same time and that's why you can see a few custom parts in the stock kit and some stock parts in the custom kit.
Like the 1960 Ford Galaxie Starliner kit, the Edsel Pacer kit and the Chrysler 300C kit wich all are available as a stock version and a custom version, both versions of these kits share the tooling wich was designed and developed at the same time back in mid to late 1990's and together with this one they are among the last kits designed by AMT/ERTL before the company was sold to Racing Champions/RC2 in 1999.

I have the kit #099-30081 according to the instruction sheet and the box says 30081-1HD. The date I find In both places is 2002. My point is "why didn't they tell the builder which tail light lenses were the correct ones for the stock version." ? ANYWAY.....if you have this version, you are aware of the "issue". If you buy a kit in the used market you may get this one and you will be aware of the issue. If anyone reading this has the latest version of this kit, please let us know if they corrected the instructions. Inquiring minds want to know. ?

Posted
On 7/8/2023 at 11:54 PM, customline said:

1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00014.jpg.98cae5bd7ed2c29c850cfcdfc807c655.jpgIMG_4303.jpg.8c0a8559b84ee9b8fc8777a43f4379e2.jpg

 There's no way to do that at 1:25th scale. My only purpose would be to emulate the look of depth by recessing the faces and maybe a drop of CA on top of the faces. It could work ?

Another alternative for a gauge lens is a drop of Future floor polish. This will also work well when "gluing" headlight and taillight lenses.  

Posted
3 hours ago, espo said:

Another alternative for a gauge lens is a drop of Future floor polish. This will also work well when "gluing" headlight and taillight lenses.  

Yup. I use clear gloss for lenses nowadays, Dave.  I found a big bottle of it hiding in plain sight. In time it may yellow but it will be someone else's problem. I have not joined the millions of model car builders that use Future. I can't find it at a reasonable price. I wanted to try it but the stuff is very expensive and I would never use enough of it to make it worthwhile. I rarely use a clear coat on car bodies and the clear lacquer is great for lenses. I also use the "Gold" CA for glass and lenses. No fogging. For a convex guage glass I think a drop of thick CA might work or maybe 5 minute epoxy or maybe Bondic? (I should test before doing any of these; the ink on the guage face might dissolve ?). Thanks for your interest Dave, I do appreciate it.

Hey. Check this one...interesting  interior colors.1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00018.jpg.5bbdc002ee7bec2abd45b1e7a904b2ff.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Oh....and incidentally,  try to install those lenses the way the instructions show.  ? (not you, kids)

Edited by customline
Added B.S.
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Posted

This is going really good........ Have you decided on a color scheme yet? Black would look very formal..... I painted mine brown with a black and white interior.

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, customline said:

I have the kit #099-30081 according to the instruction sheet and the box says 30081-1HD. The date I find In both places is 2002. My point is "why didn't they tell the builder which tail light lenses were the correct ones for the stock version." ? ANYWAY.....if you have this version, you are aware of the "issue". If you buy a kit in the used market you may get this one and you will be aware of the issue. If anyone reading this has the latest version of this kit, please let us know if they corrected the instructions. Inquiring minds want to know. ?

You have to ask AMT/Round2 because I don't know.
I'm just telling why there are some custom parts in these kits and it's the same regardless of wich issue it is, I have the first from 2000 and the custom version from 2011, the tail light sprue is the same for both versions.
If you look closely you can tell from the drawing in the instructions wich tail light lenses you are supposed to use, the drawing for the lenses in the stock version has a flat center, the drawing for the custom version shows both the flat lenses and the bullet lenses and they are optional and you can use wich one you like.
But I agree with you, it could have been more clear, the instructions for the stock version it should be only the #400 as they are the only ones shown, the #401 is the custom lenses not shown in that drawing...so there was a misstake from the artist who did the instructions.

Edited by Force
Posted

This really does look like an ace kit from AMT - definitely amongst their best. I love the work done so far. The interior door handles and opening centre console are especially nice touches. 

You probably already know this, but there’s a PE set made by Model Car Garage for this kit. 

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Force said:

You have to ask AMT/Round2 because I don't know.
I'm just telling why there are some custom parts in these kits and it's the same regardless of wich issue it is, I have the first from 2000 and the custom version from 2011, the tail light sprue is the same for both versions.
If you look closely you can tell from the drawing in the instructions wich tail light lenses you are supposed to use, the drawing for the lenses in the stock version has a flat center, the drawing for the custom version shows both the flat lenses and the bullet lenses and they are optional and you can use wich one you like.
But I agree with you, it could have been more clear, the instructions for the stock version it should be only the #400 as they are the only ones shown, the #401 is the custom lenses not shown in that drawing...so there was a misstake from the artist who did the instructions.

Exactly. I totally get the "vestigial" parts thing. I love extra parts. ?

refer to instructions. If I follow them it's a coincidence. The quality of instructions across the industry varies widely. Even the really good ones will goof now and then. Some of the older AMT sheets are almost worthless to anyone with little experience. I guess it's just an integral part of the hobby. But I will point it out when I run across a goof because someone reading my words may benefit and I remember what we have to pay for these kits. Thanks for your interest.

Edited by customline
Deletion
Posted
19 hours ago, customline said:

Yup. I use clear gloss for lenses nowadays, Dave.  I found a big bottle of it hiding in plain sight. In time it may yellow but it will be someone else's problem. I have not joined the millions of model car builders that use Future. I can't find it at a reasonable price. I wanted to try it but the stuff is very expensive and I would never use enough of it to make it worthwhile. I rarely use a clear coat on car bodies and the clear lacquer is great for lenses. I also use the "Gold" CA for glass and lenses. No fogging. For a convex guage glass I think a drop of thick CA might work or maybe 5 minute epoxy or maybe Bondic? (I should test before doing any of these; the ink on the guage face might dissolve ?). Thanks for your interest Dave, I do appreciate it.

Hey. Check this one...interesting  interior colors.1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00018.jpg.5bbdc002ee7bec2abd45b1e7a904b2ff.jpg

I wasn't sure if you were looking for a suggestion on what to use on the gauges. You may be right about the liquid future cost since the bottle I have was purchased a long time ago and may last my lifetime since this is about the only use I have for it. Never have used it on painted bodies either. 

Posted
41 minutes ago, espo said:

I wasn't sure if you were looking for a suggestion on what to use on the gauges. You may be right about the liquid future cost since the bottle I have was purchased a long time ago and may last my lifetime since this is about the only use I have for it. Never have used it on painted bodies either. 

Dave, I looked in a number of places for the current labeling of that stuff and it's very confusing but Amazon, Ebay, Lowes, Home Depot....every place I looked it was way beyond what I want to spend for it. I appreciate your and everyone else's input.  If I don't use the Intel maybe you help someone else with your suggestions. There's a lot of eyes out there!

Posted
1 hour ago, Maindrian Pace said:

A working console lid! That's the first one I can recall seeing.

If I see an opportunity to do something like that, I feel it's worth a try. I have done it with the glove box and the gas door on the '56 Crown Vic, among other things. There are some kits that present good opportunities but you can't open every "door."  Well....its my thread so:

IMG_4387.thumb.jpg.49ae550e241b0470da462cddec35bab2.jpgIMG_4386.thumb.jpg.272ffcc2b74ac3812d7f1feb629026f6.jpgIMG_4381.thumb.jpg.aea6923cc9b9d31fcd386a406d3b031b.jpg

IMG_0716.thumb.jpg.6b8227711ac2b2a0c59de4b965ac6fde.jpg

.....and the glove box......It looks like I forgot to paint the inside of it ? . Look for those opportunities and you can get as loony as me!

IMG_4385.jpg.fceb7427f4b10b68cc2832707eea971d.jpgIMG_4382.jpg.743942eb75f66ac7a0bd6b61b647389d.jpg

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, JollySipper said:

This is going really good........ Have you decided on a color scheme yet? Black would look very formal..... I painted mine brown with a black and white interior.

I have been considering a solid light ("baby") blue for the exterior and white for the upholstery,  black carpet and dash pad. I keep seeing that color combo in my head ?. I think its because of the '73 Mustang convertible I had with that color combo. The soft top I'm not sure yet but probably white. I can always paint it black if I don't like it white. ?. Thanks for asking!

You are welcome to put up a photo of yours here. Anyone that built this car please do so also!

62tbirdside.jpg.f438ddd7ca7b3b651a01bc51536db3b1.jpg

Edited by customline
Added more nonsense
  • Like 2
Posted
9 hours ago, beeRS said:

This really does look like an ace kit from AMT - definitely amongst their best. I love the work done so far. The interior door handles and opening centre console are especially nice touches. 

You probably already know this, but there’s a PE set made by Model Car Garage for this kit. 

Yeah, I got a little overzealous. It looked do-able so....

Yes, I looked at that. It would DOUBLE  the cost of this kit (25 bucks!) I might have gone for half that but I'm sorry, I just won't do it.  I don't compete so I'm not looking to spend that kind of money on a few door handles and some scripts that will fall off and get lost while the cost of kits keeps soaring. Nope. ?.

Thanks for your interest, Sonny.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/9/2023 at 12:54 AM, customline said:

1962-Ford-Thunderbird-00014.jpg.98cae5bd7ed2c29c850cfcdfc807c655.jpgIMG_4303.jpg.8c0a8559b84ee9b8fc8777a43f4379e2.jpg

 There's no way to do that at 1:25th scale. My only purpose would be to emulate the look of depth by recessing the faces and maybe a drop of CA on top of the faces. It could work ?

Sometimes the lenses look convex to me but in some photos they look concave. Or are they flat ?

Posted
11 hours ago, customline said:

Yeah, I got a little overzealous. It looked do-able so....

Yes, I looked at that. It would DOUBLE  the cost of this kit (25 bucks!) I might have gone for half that but I'm sorry, I just won't do it.  I don't compete so I'm not looking to spend that kind of money on a few door handles and some scripts that will fall off and get lost while the cost of kits keeps soaring. Nope. ?.

Thanks for your interest, Sonny.

I know where you’re coming from. Sometimes it’s easy to get carried away and the cost of a detail kit could just as well have gone on the next kit.

Posted
5 hours ago, beeRS said:

I know where you’re coming from. Sometimes it’s easy to get carried away and the cost of a detail kit could just as well have gone on the next kit.

Yeah,  I've got to keep things in perspective; I'm on a fixed income

Posted

Today I stopped at my local HobbyTown for a can of "baby blue" spray paint. They sell Tamiya so I figured I could find a nice non-metallic light blue. Uh....no. But I did find a nice "coral blue".  I don't have any experience with Tamiya paint. Can anyone tell me if this color is solid or metallic? I suppose I could paint a spoon  but the can feels kinda light. Anybody use this one?

IMG_4391.thumb.jpg.13dc4172ba4243068ef420d8ccb5f6a0.jpg

Posted
38 minutes ago, customline said:

Today I stopped at my local HobbyTown for a can of "baby blue" spray paint. They sell Tamiya so I figured I could find a nice non-metallic light blue. Uh....no. But I did find a nice "coral blue".  I don't have any experience with Tamiya paint. Can anyone tell me if this color is solid or metallic? I suppose I could paint a spoon  but the can feels kinda light. Anybody use this one?

IMG_4391.thumb.jpg.13dc4172ba4243068ef420d8ccb5f6a0.jpg

its a solid, tamiya tell you on the label if its mettalic or pearl etc,

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, stitchdup said:

its a solid, tamiya tell you on the label if its mettalic or pearl etc,

Nope. If it doesn't  say pearl or metallic or clear then it must be solid? Right? Ok....thanks, Les.

Edited by customline
Posted

I got the dash drilled out and set it up for the guage faces. Just a heads-up : you will notice the tunnels I drilled are not all the same depth so i had to add shims in addition to the spacers I inserted..  The pictures should tell the story. Thanks for looking.

IMG_4393.jpg.bd4e720f69dd997ab6ca50528026e678.jpgIMG_4392.jpg.5f4d70d9305f70c1134971f319d42ed5.jpgIMG_4394.jpg.33bd83597783389b079eeb4a564ccaf2.jpgIMG_4395.jpg.eb85038fa6d584b9ae66c1647dde16d1.jpgIMG_4396.jpg.1f72596f257e7394f8358e8bf4204774.jpgIMG_4397.thumb.jpg.3453270be06e5fb3f5583faa4460c19c.jpg

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