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1960 Patina Chevy Pickup

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This is what happens when you leave an old truck out in the Arizona desert for a couple decades. It was pulled out of the desert and with a new battery, oil, wires and other bodily fluids she’s back up and running.
I had an old glue bomb I bought at NNL East when I lived in New Jersey. I wanted to try my hand at rusting again so I studied rust patterns and came up with this. The color is as close as I could get to the original color. The engine shows oil on the valve cover from sloppily adding oil and the seat has rips and tears.
Thanks for looking and I hope you like it.




Edited by Nosferatu
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1 hour ago, espo said:

I think you nailed the look. Sun baked all summer and left out in the one or two winter rain storms. Left to sit out for a few years and this is what you get. Like the way you did the seats and the rubber floor mat. 


It was a fun build.


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On 9/27/2023 at 4:25 AM, Horrorshow said:

I believe that’s the best weathering I have ever seen.

Would really like for you to give a short lesson on your technique and paint choices.


7 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Very effective weathering done on this model.

Any chance of describing the techniques used?

Thanks! I'll try to explain it.

I have done rusting a few times and I still have lots of improvements to learn.
There are many Youtube videos on rusting. I studied the videos that only used paint, not the salt method. The other area I studied were pictures of desert rusted vehicles in order to understand where the rust forms. In the west the rust forms on the tops and in the east the rust forms on the bottoms and usually eats away the body and door bottoms.
 First I painted the truck the stock color. I then started with the darker color first. Black, then the oxides, browns. I also mixed some of the colors together. You need to get a few colors that look like different shades of rust and layer it on (its all about layering colors). I applied the colors with a damp sponge and the dry brush method. To dull the factory color paint I used a very thin black wash. For the final rust I used Sophisticated Finishes - Iron Metallic Surfacer and the Rust Antiquing Solution. This iron metallic surfacer uses fine metallic particles and the antiquing solution oxidized the iron particles and is actually rust. I applied this several times is the areas I wanted thicker rust showing.
Colors - Black, white, burnt umber, nutmeg, honey brown, red oxide.

For the seat I dremeled away the drivers side seat base where your butt would be to look worn and a bit flattened, I also did it to the back of the seat where your back would be. I did the same to the passengers seat but not to the same extreme. Then I covered the seat with blue painters tape. I like that tape because it has texture. Then I slit the tape after it was applied to the seat and picked it open as if to expose the stuffing. I painted some honey brown between the slits to show that the stuffing was a different color. For the seat corner I opened the tape as if the corner was worn and damaged. I used the same method for the floor mats except I didn’t paint the inside of the slits. Then I used a thicker wash and applied it to the seat with a damp sponge to make it look old and dirty. The nice thing about this is that if you mess up its just water based paint so it is easy to restart if it doesn’t wash off. 
Here are the paints I used.

I hope this helps.


These videos may help:



Here is another seat I made for a different build.

Here is the link to the model:

I used this aluminum wire for the springs and used the rust solutions for the rust.




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