Entering "decal hell" and coming out a winner

[Mike]

For those who are interested -

My latest project - the Badboy Corvette from the 24 hour Sebring race - has caused me to enter a new level of what some call "decal hell". I'm no stranger to decal work but this current build is putting me on a new challenge with aftermarket decals and they're NOT pre-cut to provide ease of application.

Decals can be a huge challenge or aversion for some. It's not as hard as you'd think, and the thing to do is essentially DIVE IN (at least that's how I got introduced). So, without further delay let's begin with what you will need -

First (and most importantly) PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE

Next on our list is a group of tools you already have on your workbench - Exacto and a NEW #11 blade, good scissors, new soft bristle paint brush, a padded "sponge head" brush, tweezers, Micro Sol and/or Micro Set, and lastly a hair dryer. A WHAT??!? Yep. Hairdryer. Preferably one with a lower heat setting.

To begin, trim the decal closely to the edge. This will help take care of any silvering or edges hanging after the decal is in place. For the below hood decal, I left "Jake" (as the mascot is affectionately known) in one piece. I taped the hood in place from below to allow for a solid surface to work with. Dip the decal in warm water for about 8-10 seconds to activate the glue. Let it sit on a wet paper towel until the decal slides freely. I placed the decal on the hood and, using the sponge-head brush, positioned the decal in place. Using a cotton swab or paper towel, removed excess water from below. Next, using the #11 blade, I had to make small splices in the decal to allow it to set over the molded-in hood pins. Next I dipped my new soft brush in to Micro Sol and applied it to odd contours like the hood pins, parting lines between the hood and body, and ferrings on the fenders. The Micro Sol softens the decal and allows it to settle in to odd surfaces. DO NOT try to move or position the decal at this point. The decal is soft and will tear easily. Allow the Micro Sol to do it's work for about a couple minutes. Next, take the hair dryer and on the lower heat setting, shoot it with some warm air. This will assist the decal in shrinking and conforming to those odd surfaces. At the end of the heating process, let the decal set and inspect it. There may be an air bubble or wrinkle which are easily remedied. Using your #11 blade, cut/slice a small hole in the bubble/wrinkle and apply Micro Sol again. After I let the decal set up for about 1/2 an hour, I again took my #11 blade and CAREFULLY cut the separation lines between the hood length-wise and along the window sill. Following this, I also made the cuts for the fender ferrings. I applied Micro Sol again moving the brush WITH the direction of the ferrings and hood etc. I also found that the surface along the wind shield was very oddly shaped. Here again I had to use more Micro-Sol and muscle the decal in to submission gently and use the hair dryer. It took about 4 applications total to get it to set in. This is the final result after 45 minutes.

Next, we're going to put "Jake" on both sides of the car. Here again we've got some issues to deal with. First off is the 1/4 moon decal over the rear window. Molded-in rivets cause problems in airbubbles and inperfections. Using tip of my #11 blade I picked small holes where the rivets are to allow the decal to conform to those odd surfaces. After applying Micro Sol and heat as in the previous decal, we're ready to trim the window seam. This is the final result -

Before I can begin to put "Jake" on the side of the car, I need to give him a trim. The eyes and lower part of the skull will be on the door/rear fender. The top of his head will be over the rear well, b-pillar and landing on the top of the car.

OK. Let's get Jake's eyes and mouth on the car. Again, repeat all the processes as before - wet the decal and allow to set on a wet paper towel until it moves freely. Slide the decal off of the backing and on to the surface, positioning with the sponge-headed brush. Dry up any excess water with a cotton swab or paper towel. Here again we have surface irregularities. Using our Micro Sol and applying where needed, heat with the hair dryer as before and cut any bubbles with the #11 blade to seep out air, water, etc. Obviously in the picture below we've got some excess decal to remove. After the decal has had a good 10 minutes to set up, I take out the #11 blade once again. The method I use is the carefully start at the top of the decal and in a double-down motion begin cutting. I start with the tip of the blade at the top of the decal and make a stabbing/downward fluid cut using the inner wheel well as a guide. Do not do this cut fast but take your time and make it one fluid motion.

Here again, we're going to put Jake's head on. Wet decal, position, Micro Sol, heat, repeat as necessary and trim as in all the previous stages. Again we face the dreaded window rivets and have to pick holes with the #11 blade. The finished product is this -

Decaling is a time-consuming and patience testing process. I cannot emphasize the importance of PATIENCE enough here. It's a labor of love for sure. The key is practice, patience, proper materials, and patience. Did I say patience? If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. I'm off to make a Micro Sol shake....

Edited March 16, 2009 by Mike

[935k3]

Very well done tutorial, I do use a hair dryer occasionly but may main method is a clean hot damp(not wet) tissue prssed firmly over decal. It will set instantantly with no wrinkles. I use ahot water pot near or at boiling hot, I dip the tissue or cloth then damp it out on a paper towel then press. Here's a car that really needs help with decals. Tamiya's JACCS Accord.

[Mike]

Very true Dale. I've looked at that kit a few times but never bought one. Clean work on your behalf! Here's another heavy decal project that's similar for decal help that I've done -

Edited March 17, 2009 by Mike

[ismaelg]

Mike,

All I can say is THANK YOU! Not only I love the subject (Duh!) but also since decals are my weakest point in this hobby, you are helping me get a bit more confidence.

My love for race cars has always been hampered by the fear of decals.

Thanks,

[Mike]

Mike,

All I can say is THANK YOU! Not only I love the subject (Duh!) but also since decals are my weakest point in this hobby, you are helping me get a bit more confidence.

My love for race cars has always been hampered by the fear of decals.

Thanks,

You are welcome Ismael. I'm glad I could be of some assistance.

[philo426]

The decals on this Tamiya Williams fw11 were extensive,Micoset and Microsol worked great!

[Lownslow]

Very true Dale. I've looked at that kit a few times but never bought one. Clean work on your behalf! Here's another heavy decal project that's similar for decal help that I've done -

i bought this kit, where did you mask off for the white backgrounds?

[Mike]

i bought this kit, where did you mask off for the white backgrounds?

You don't have to mask for the white. The whole car is left white except the front nose cone, rear deck lid, spoiler, and rear bumper which are painted blue. The decals are printed in a fade pattern and cover 80% of the car. It will literally take you twice as long to put on the decals than it will to actually build the car.