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Posted
1 hour ago, LennyB said:

Mike, I would call that dumb luck. Had a can of Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer sitting in the garage. Just used that. It goes on a bit thick which is why I used it to help hide some of the surgery below the mufflers.

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Ah thanks! Well I would say it was a happy accident then. 

Posted

I'm happy to see you back on this project, Len. It's quite an adventure. Lotsa good info.   I think I need a much bigger junk yard ? ......but I'm workin' on it ?

Posted
19 hours ago, customline said:

I'm happy to see you back on this project, Len. It's quite an adventure. Lotsa good info.   I think I need a much bigger junk yard ? ......but I'm workin' on it ?

Thanks Jim, these days my work bench looks like a junk yard. I got projects all intermingled I don't know what I'm working on half the time. You should see the projects I have waiting in the wings. ? I keep saying I need to stop and straighten thing up but I'm having too much fun.? 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Last  few week progress has been slow as several of my projects have reached the body painting stage. I have spent a lot of my time trying to make friends again with my airbrush which I haven't spoken to for nearly 30 years.  To compound the situation I have been working with Createx Wicked colors which is a whole new animal for me. I won't bore you with the details but after a lot of test sprays on spoons and various body parts I decided to go ahead and spray the Fairlane. I decided to go with the Wicked Yellow.

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I got a pretty decent looking spray on the body except for one problem, the paint wasn't covering. I have something like 10 coats on the body and if you look at the peaks, such as the crease in the hood, the primer still bleeds through. Plus the yellow is not the shade I was expecting.

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And I've also lost a lot of my detail, the side molding no longer has a crease down the center.

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As I'm still trying to figure out this Createx paint system I'm finding myself frustrated with this company. Some of their product is clearly labeled, 'transparent' or 'opaque' etc..  The Wicked Colors just say "Airbrush Colors". I bought a whole flight of these which I planned on using for 4 different projects and now I learn they are semi-transparent. And the more you thin them the more transparent they become. Which is why the Fairlane looks the way it does. I had no success spraying them straight from the bottle as they say these will. 35PSI with a .5 needle. I found the best results when thinned 50/50 with their gloss clear added in.

 

So for now it's back to square one, body has been stripped down and primed once again. So my detail is back and I'll start all over with an opaque yellow I picked up at HL and see how it goes.

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Posted

I agree that the loss of detail warrants a do over. I would suggest a fine white primer to bring the brightness back to your yellow. What is the solvent base of your Wicked colors? Water, alcohol, lacquer or none of the above? I use lacquers and enamels. I mist coat it then let it flash off 5-10 minutes to let it bite. Then I simply keep spraying always concentrating on the hard to cover areas until I have a full coverage gloss coat. Then I park it for at least 2 weeks. Hopefully I do not have any dust bumps to deal with. After BMF, decals, and all details except windows. I lather on the Future to seal everything to the body. I do not have the patience for polishing and solvent based clear coats have ruined my results from time to time. Good luck on whatever you choose.

Posted

Bill, thanks for the advice. I resprayed the body with Tamiya fine white primer and the next go I'm using a different, opaque yellow. which I'm mixing with their 4020 reducer with a bit of their gloss clear. Figured I would try it "their way" before I try it mine. But I see a lot of people using all types of mixes when they spray this stuff, including windshield washer fluid.

I used the Wicked black on another project and it covered fine, although that is supposedly semi-opaque also. Just finished spraying my 41 Plymouth Coupe first with an opaque red and then covered with Wicked Crimson Red. Covered fine as well. Maybe the yellow just doesn't like me. ? Or maybe it's old. I've heard that complaint as well.

Posted

So take two came out much better. This time I used the createx opaque yellow which covered much better then the wicked yellow.  It had a green tint in the pics but rest assured that is just the lighting. The drawback with this is the paint comes out with a satin sheen. I could go over this with a coat or two of the wicked yellow to gain a gloss. But the plan is to add some photo-etched emblems and then clear over them and the body. So I will leave well enough alone as I have a nice smooth paint job...so far unless I screw it up.??

 

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This has about six coats on it and you can still see the detail of the side molding.

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So with that I will call it a day. See ya next time. Same Bat station. ?

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

So while the Fairlane has spent a lot of time lingering in the back corner of the workbench it has not been forgotten. It's been sanded and polished but it seems I have four projects that all got to the BMF foil stage all about the same time. And I can only do so much BMF at one time the knot in my back tells me. Got a bit done last night on the Ford but there is still more to do.

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The Fairlane 5oo emblem is a photo etched part made for the '64 Thunderbolt kit, script is not correct style for this year but I think it's close enough. The Tasca emblem is for that also. Better then trying to paint these on. Gonna have to do some painting on the FORD lettering that won't be fun as the Createx yellow did it's best to hide the letters.

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Hopefully will make some more progress soon.

  • Like 4
Posted
8 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

That yellow looks great on it Len!? The foil really sets it off nicely.?

Thanks Greg, much appreciated. Let's see how it looks with the rest of it done.

Posted
2 hours ago, customline said:

Lenny! I have to have that Tasca badge. Is it MCG? 

Yes, MCG-2315. And I see now it has some hood lettering too, I might need that here.

Posted

Great Save of an elderly kit.

I like your dedication to using parts from your junk boxes. The perserverance has paid off. I like the yellow, too. It looks right.

Posted

Thanks guys, appreciate it.    

11 hours ago, dietgilroy said:

cool photoetch detail!

 

9 hours ago, stavanzer said:

Great Save of an elderly kit.

I like your dedication to using parts from your junk boxes. The perserverance has paid off. I like the yellow, too. It looks right.

 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted
1 hour ago, spkgibsonfirebird said:

Any new progress on this build? Loving it so far!!

Not of late but I’m hoping to get back to it soon.  

  • Like 1
Posted

That yellow looks nice and so does the photoetch. Your FORD letters could have been done via the paint over BMF technique but it is too late for that. If they stood "proud" enough you could use a MOLOTOW pen if you have a steady hand.

Posted
16 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

That yellow looks nice and so does the photoetch. Your FORD letters could have been done via the paint over BMF technique but it is too late for that. If they stood "proud" enough you could use a MOLOTOW pen if you have a steady hand.

Bill, I would have done the BMF under the paint if I could. But as this paint is water based you can't use thinner or polish to remove the paint over the letters. And the letters didn't stand proud when I started. So I took what is probably the bumpiest road to get to my destination. I used some photo-etched letters on top of the AMT letters which were my guide for placement. Can you say tedious???  I think the rear came out better then the trunk. Now it still needs trim around the end caps and trunk lid edge. Not sure how I want to tackle that. Anyone know where I can get some very thin chrome tape?. Maybe cut some from BMF ?

 

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  • Like 3
Posted
6 hours ago, LennyB said:

Bill, I would have done the BMF under the paint if I could. But as this paint is water based you can't use thinner or polish to remove the paint over the letters. And the letters didn't stand proud when I started. So I took what is probably the bumpiest road to get to my destination. I used some photo-etched letters on top of the AMT letters which were my guide for placement. Can you say tedious???  I think the rear came out better then the trunk. Now it still needs trim around the end caps and trunk lid edge. Not sure how I want to tackle that. Anyone know where I can get some very thin chrome tape?. Maybe cut some from BMF ?

I rarely have the privilege of photoetch. Though I did do the "FORD" on the front my racecar hauler. As to your rear trim predicament, you are down to BMF with a freehand trim or MOLOTOW with a steady hand. Unless of course, you can mask and paint it. If you actually find thin enough chrome tape, I fear the nature of tape adhesive will permit it to migrate over time. Especially in the corners.

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  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

I rarely have the privilege of photoetch. Though I did do the "FORD" on the front my racecar hauler. As to your rear trim predicament, you are down to BMF with a freehand trim or MOLOTOW with a steady hand. Unless of course, you can mask and paint it. If you actually find thin enough chrome tape, I fear the nature of tape adhesive will permit it to migrate over time. Especially in the corners.

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Bill, I’m probably going to have to mask and Molotov. I wonder if even a thin strip of BMF would stick with any security.  In hindsight what I should have done is taken some thin aluminum wire formed in the shape of the molding and glued it to the back of the body before painting and then just sanded the paint off after.  

3 hours ago, Moparman18064 said:

Wow! I forgot about this build. It looks great Len. The letters look perfectly placed and stand out really nicely against that yellow.

Thanks Rich, I’m sure I developed a few more grey hairs putting them on there.

Posted
On 11/10/2024 at 8:53 AM, LennyB said:

Bill, I’m probably going to have to mask and Molotov. I wonder if even a thin strip of BMF would stick with any security.  In hindsight what I should have done is taken some thin aluminum wire formed in the shape of the molding and glued it to the back of the body before painting and then just sanded the paint off after.  

Thanks Rich, I’m sure I developed a few more grey hairs putting them on there.

Len, I had to do that on the Edsel. The kit had no provision for the trim on the outside of the grille opening (horse collar) so I just used foil - seemed fine.

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