Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 11, 2024 Posted April 11, 2024 I started this before the Corvette I had to quit because the paint was still too soft while I was foil wrapping it and left fingerprints so I've started back on it through the different steps I will tell you little bits about each photo. Today's photo I'm starting with a single shot step one in the instructions engine. I wish they would make an intake manifold to have dual quads and keep them under the hood I had to take that ram welands and cut it down until it was under the hood and I hope I got it right. 3
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 11, 2024 Author Posted April 11, 2024 1 hour ago, Zippi said: Good looking engine there Stanward. The compliment is well appreciated but there was one problem when I went to do the air cleaners painted I put them on masking tape sticky side up and then shot the paint after I got everything done I went to pull them off in a long came to Chrome with it I have one other incident but that comes later.
espo Posted April 11, 2024 Posted April 11, 2024 The Gundam Marker EX pens work well and are reasonable priced. Chrome foil also works well. 1
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 13, 2024 Author Posted April 13, 2024 I'm going by what I remember in 1966 I knew some Grandpa's with Novas one was Butternut Yellow it's my favorite color for Chevelle's and Chevyll that's the GM name for the color. This my first car after a 3-4 year period and was thinking 51 Chevy and wasn't watching what he was doing primaring the detail away the paint is beautiful the detail that you're expecting to see isn't there. The hood as a scar where you're supposed to cut out for the scoop I didn't notice it I used a white primer and it head the scar. 2
GoodbuildNY Posted April 13, 2024 Posted April 13, 2024 Looking good so far. I agree with you on GM’s butternut yellow. A method I use to minimize the ghosting effect of factory relief cuts underneath is to fill the relief with superglue first. A little sanding, maybe an extra coat of primer and block sanding and the ghosting effect is non existent. 1
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 14, 2024 Author Posted April 14, 2024 With the motor in the chassis I started on fabricating the exhaust system and put in the differential and traction bars. 1
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 14, 2024 Author Posted April 14, 2024 All the paint is drying on the body I also was working on the interior I was using a new brand of paint I was not happy with the way it was drying semi gloss after a week it would leave fingerprints on the surface. The console I changed it from what looked like by adding real wood l use masking tape for pattern making for the insert. When I pulled off the tape so did the Chrome came off well that's okay it saved me from having to strip it when I go to glue the wood in. I was reading one of the sections where they were talking about how to remove the Chrome off of the pieces one person said easy off oven cleaner another said another thing hey try masking tape on this kit it does wonders. ???? 2
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 14, 2024 Author Posted April 14, 2024 On 4/13/2024 at 6:14 AM, GoodbuildNY said: Looking good so far. I agree with you on GM’s butternut yellow. A method I use to minimize the ghosting effect of factory relief cuts underneath is to fill the relief with superglue first. A little sanding, maybe an extra coat of primer and block sanding and the ghosting effect is non existent. Hi The car body I used a dark grey primer the headers are the grey I used first then went to a white primer. The hood and fire wall l used the white primer and then sanded it wasn't until the yellow I noticed relief in till yellow if I would have noticed it in primer I would have used some patch filler so I had to give it extra coats and sanded. All the paints are used on this car I've never used before spraying the yellow and clear coat we're not like Dupli-Color paint the only thing Dupli-Color was the adhesion promoter.
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 15, 2024 Author Posted April 15, 2024 Body was clear coated and the decals were then added and 2 coats of clear was added. I wish I hadn't put the decals on the black didn't look good for the emblems silver or Chrome would have been better than black on all the emblems. As you can see it is just as shiny as the Corvette was after I rubbed it out and put a gelco on it. The exhaust system I fabricated from what they had on the kit the bottom photo is what I was shooting for this car to look like from the rear it gives it a realistic look for a Grandpa's car at least Southern California. ?????? If any of you have a chance watch the documentary called "Where They Race" lot of old footage in this documentary???? 1
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted April 23, 2024 Author Posted April 23, 2024 Now that all the bright work is done. Now I can put the windows in it step 28 also done. 1
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted January 11 Author Posted January 11 Hi folks the body turned out beautiful except for the decals. But the car had a accident it's tow truck material now or garage repair material I broke the windshield in half and I didn't assemble the right side of the front suspension correctly in the wheel leans badly like it hit a curb. Talk about bummed so I put it in the box to punish it until I'm ready to shoot a final photograph of it and post it so folks you'll have to wait but it was a beautiful looking car. Thank you for the comments Stanward
Old Buckaroo Posted January 11 Posted January 11 Ive got spare windshields from the '66 Pro Street cars. I bought them for the chassis and other parts. If you want one its yours.. 1
Stanward VonDiederichs Posted January 11 Author Posted January 11 24 minutes ago, Old Buckaroo said: Ive got spare windshields from the '66 Pro Street cars. I bought them for the chassis and other parts. If you want one its yours.. Thank you for the offer but I think I'm going to leave it as it is and use it as a prop for another project I've started on another project.
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