Straightliner59 Posted August 22, 2024 Author Posted August 22, 2024 12 hours ago, Ian McLaren said: Daniel, that starter motor is off the charts, especially considering the scale you are working in. I would not even attempt something that small and intricate, very well done my friend! I appreciate that, Ian! I'm surprised I got it in one try!?
Tony Coomer Posted August 23, 2024 Posted August 23, 2024 More great shots of the suspension. this will be one fine build when finished… 1
Straightliner59 Posted August 23, 2024 Author Posted August 23, 2024 6 hours ago, Tony Coomer said: More great shots of the suspension. this will be one fine build when finished… Appreciate that, Tony! Thanks!
dragcarz Posted August 23, 2024 Posted August 23, 2024 Very nice work Daniel, great fabrication, looks to scale, very nice! 1
Ulf Posted August 23, 2024 Posted August 23, 2024 (edited) Great project, I've read through the whole thread now. This picture is like the essence of the whole build, an ingenious solution to a problem I've been pondering, one brass-tree plasticard, thanks for the help. Edit Now I have read through the thread one more time and it really feels like you are visiting someone's friend's garage. A truly inspiring project. Edited August 23, 2024 by Ulf
Straightliner59 Posted August 24, 2024 Author Posted August 24, 2024 20 hours ago, dragcarz said: Very nice work Daniel, great fabrication, looks to scale, very nice! Thanks, Roger! I started playing around with the "bent" injector stacks. I think it's going to look really cool!
Straightliner59 Posted August 24, 2024 Author Posted August 24, 2024 19 hours ago, Ulf said: Great project, I've read through the whole thread now. This picture is like the essence of the whole build, an ingenious solution to a problem I've been pondering, one brass-tree plasticard, thanks for the help. Edit Now I have read through the thread one more time and it really feels like you are visiting someone's friend's garage. A truly inspiring project. Glad that was helpful, Ulf! The brass definitely helps with rigidity. I am humbled by your kind words. I always hope that I am sharing things people will find useful. I enjoy sharing my processes, as well!
bisc63 Posted August 24, 2024 Posted August 24, 2024 Such a fun and informative thread, thanks so much for taking time to post it! I hate getting to the party late, but next time you need a 1/24 big block Chevy, look no further than the old Monogram 1/24 '65 Vette. It has the kind of detail worthy of your building style. I have recommended this engine a few times, as it really is that good, especially the Street Machine version for the added goodies. You can see pics of it I posted in this thread some while back:
Straightliner59 Posted August 25, 2024 Author Posted August 25, 2024 6 hours ago, bisc63 said: Such a fun and informative thread, thanks so much for taking time to post it! I hate getting to the party late, but next time you need a 1/24 big block Chevy, look no further than the old Monogram 1/24 '65 Vette. It has the kind of detail worthy of your building style. I have recommended this engine a few times, as it really is that good, especially the Street Machine version for the added goodies. You can see pics of it I posted in this thread some while back: Thanks, Rusty! Next time I need one, that's where I'll go! I'm happy you found this informative. I'll be working on it at least a while longer, so I hope you'll check back in. I'll try to make it worthwhile!
Straightliner59 Posted August 26, 2024 Author Posted August 26, 2024 I'd been wondering how I would do the bent stacks, for the injector. Larson's Chevelle had two variations. One in which the injector bases were cut and welded. The other has bent tubes. The car also doesn't appear to be the Crower setup I (for some reason) thought it was. More research is in order. I think my best option will be to bend the tube bases from .125" plastic rod, then attach the actual tubes, to those. I haven't measured this one, yet, I may need to shorten it, a little. The 1974-'75 Chevrolet Performance Manual I have recommends 21.5" from the top of the stack to the base of the manifold. I also cut the cowl, back. I think it's going to look pretty cool, with the stacks alternating in purple and gold "anodizing"--4, each color. I'm also fiddling with the headers, and how I am going to bend them. I have to build them from plastic, as I can't find/don't have the proper diameter material in aluminum wire, or solder. The first bend has to be a tight one, as they need to fit between the engine and the frame rails. I don't anticipate any big problems, with them, though. Questions and comments are always appreciated. Thanks for looking! 1
David G. Posted August 26, 2024 Posted August 26, 2024 Wow Daniel, I don't recall ever seeing stacks bent in such a way. Those are cool! They look like something one would see on a Batmobile, air intakes that double as smoke grenade launchers! I wonder if having the stacks leaning forward like that actually imparts a significant ram effect or if it's just more for show. In either case, it's cool. David G.
Straightliner59 Posted August 26, 2024 Author Posted August 26, 2024 1 hour ago, David G. said: Wow Daniel, I don't recall ever seeing stacks bent in such a way. Those are cool! They look like something one would see on a Batmobile, air intakes that double as smoke grenade launchers! I wonder if having the stacks leaning forward like that actually imparts a significant ram effect or if it's just more for show. In either case, it's cool. David G. The article states that Larson did it because of engine clearance. The writer claimed that it likely inhibited performance, due to a diminution of airflow, at the curve, and thought he should have cut a relief for the stacks, in the windshield. I always thought they looked cool, too, and this seemed a perfect place to employ them!
Straightliner59 Posted August 30, 2024 Author Posted August 30, 2024 I've been solving the headers. I have some .093", bendable plastic rod I got in a bulk assortment, on Ebay. Chevrolet Performance recommends a 2.25" tube, 34" long, for the headers. .093" scales to roughly 2.375". I hope nobody notices the 1/8"!? In order to make uniform, short, sharp bends, I drilled the end of a piece of aluminum rod with a #43 bit, to a depth of .1". I then cut an angle, so that I could bend the rod past 90 degrees, and it would "relax" back to 90. Once I was satisfied that I could create consistent bends, I cut the plastic rod to length (1.36", I think). Next, I chucked each length in my lathe and "divoted" one end with a .9mm bit, to guide hand-drilling, later, and the other using a #47 bit, to create the open end of the pipe. Next, I bent each piece on the divoted end, then hand-drilled each to accept a pin that inserts into the holes I had previously drilled for the headers. The next step will be to bend each pipe to fit its location, and have them all end up in the right place! It will involve a lot of trial and error, and fitting and refitting, but it will be a big step in really moving along with the project. Questions and comments are always appreciated. Thanks for looking!
keviiin86 Posted August 30, 2024 Posted August 30, 2024 If you're looking for some solder/wire that's in scale for header primary tube diameter..try going to michaels in the jewelry section, they have several different diameters of aluminum wire..I bought the largest diameter stuff they have and I'd say it's close to 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" diameter in 1:1. 1
Straightliner59 Posted August 31, 2024 Author Posted August 31, 2024 19 hours ago, David G. said: That's a clever solution! David G. It should work out. I think? I have to align the pin with the hole, then roll it in, so that the pipe clears the frame rails. It's a tight squeeze, in there!
Straightliner59 Posted August 31, 2024 Author Posted August 31, 2024 18 hours ago, keviiin86 said: If you're looking for some solder/wire that's in scale for header primary tube diameter..try going to michaels in the jewelry section, they have several different diameters of aluminum wire..I bought the largest diameter stuff they have and I'd say it's close to 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" diameter in 1:1. I have some solder that is close enough, but it's rosin core. I've been buying aluminum armature wire (for sculpting, not electric motors.?), but couldn't find it in the appropriate size. .090" is 2.25" in scale, which is what Chevy recommended in the performance manual. I think this plastic will work out, well. Since I want open pipes, with no collector, they need to be open, with a thin wall. I think the #47 bit left me with .003"-.005" walls. It looks pretty good. To your point, though--anytime I see wire that I don't have, it usually comes home with me! It's one of those things you can never have too many different sizes or types of! 1
Straightliner59 Posted August 31, 2024 Author Posted August 31, 2024 I'm up late, this morning, since it's my day (night) off. I've been bending "pipe". I have four bent, but my eyes need some rest. I'm going to pull these (again), and bend them a tad more, so they're closer to, and parallel with, the lower edge of the car. Their location, at least, will harken to Badman's roots, while providing something more realistic. I'm going to have to make the flanges, and paint and mount them, then slip the (painted) headers into place. I'll use some thick paint to dab in weld beads, to hide the joints. I haven't decided what color I am going to paint them. The VHT paint (or similar) was available in a fair amount of colors. I don't really want to use white, because I used it on my Chevy II. That leaves yellow as the most obvious choice. The day-glo orange might be interesting.? I think they'll look pretty cool! The further along I get, with this project, the more I wish I'd gotten rid of the exhaust system! Oh, well--I think I'm still going to like it! Thanks for looking!
Straightliner59 Posted September 1, 2024 Author Posted September 1, 2024 Plugging away on the headers. All eight are bent mostly to shape. Currently, the right side of the car is how I want it. The left...meh. Not so much. It shouldn't take too long to get them all aligned, properly, however. I think it looks good for the overall theme, while, like I said, previously, harkening to its roots. Once those are done, I have to make a new pipe, for the right side, as I broke one, while re-bending it. I'll use the as-currently-installed headers to make spacing templates for the flanges. I'll probably smash some aluminum tube, to make them. I'm leaning "yellow" for the pipes, but would consider alternatives. They look good from the top, too! I wanted to post these, before I get back to work on fixing the left-hand side of the car. Thanks for looking! 2
David G. Posted September 1, 2024 Posted September 1, 2024 The headers are shaping up quite nicely Daniel. For the color, have you considered either chrome or just raw steel? David G. 1
Zippi Posted September 1, 2024 Posted September 1, 2024 I'm diggin those headers Daniel. They should look pretty nice once you get some paint on them.
Straightliner59 Posted September 2, 2024 Author Posted September 2, 2024 On 9/1/2024 at 5:29 AM, David G. said: The headers are shaping up quite nicely Daniel. For the color, have you considered either chrome or just raw steel? David G. I've considered bare metal. I wouldn't do chrome--just not a fan, mostly. I really kind of want to do a VHT type paint...I think.? 1
Straightliner59 Posted September 2, 2024 Author Posted September 2, 2024 23 hours ago, Zippi said: I'm diggin those headers Daniel. They should look pretty nice once you get some paint on them. Thank you, Bob! I got both sides bent and aligned (except the Tacky Glue allows them to sag, a bit). I think they should look pretty decent! I still need to trim the ends. I'll add some bracing, as well. Thanks for looking! 1
David G. Posted September 2, 2024 Posted September 2, 2024 Gotta love a good mockup, it looks great! David G. 1
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