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Posted

Now, back to our regularly scheduled program.😁 I replaced the old cover bolts with new, better ones. I soldered up a shutoff valve, and made an actuator arm from some brass strip I got at a model RR shop (The best one in the world, Caboose Hobbies in Denver! Alas, it is no more. I digress.). I made the brass hex fitting from some heavy-walled 1/16" tube. I'm going to run rubber fuel lines, because I like the way they look. Still have several parts to add, but, it's getting there! Thanks for looking!

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  • Like 3
Posted

Just read this build. Very lmpresive. Really like the tin wok. You are very talented. Will definitely follow this to the end. Brian 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, NerdmanB said:

Just read this build. Very lmpresive. Really like the tin wok. You are very talented. Will definitely follow this to the end. Brian 

Thank you, Brian! I appreciate your kind words! Glad to have you along for the ride!

Posted
17 hours ago, David G. said:

Impressive work, as always my friend!

David G.

Thank you, sir! So far, there's really nothing about this thing that's bugging me! Well, except I regret not just getting rid of the molded-in exhaust pipes. I told myself going in--repeatedly--that this was just to be a simple, quick and easy project, because I wanted a new Badman. Clearly, quick and easy doesn't exist in my modeling world!😂 I just love doing this stuff; It's so rewarding, to me!

Posted

Here are the fuel system components, laid out. Also seen are some of the sections of tubing I've "hexed"--I hope they aren't hexed to get lost. 😃 I need to cut a few more fittings, then I think I can mount the return lines to the tank. Once the bracket's made and mounted that retains the shutoff cable, the pump and main fuel line can be installed. That's kind of exciting!

That tiny piece of aluminum is the result of an experiment. I wanted to see just how small a fitting I could make. It's right about .030", across. I cut it from .040" armature/craft wire. That's why it's not as "crisp" as the others. That material is dead-soft, so it's not made to be machined. That said, it was more successful, than not! I'm going to search for some .040", or so, aluminum welding rod. Barring that, I'll pick up some K&S 1/16" rod; which I am kind of surprised I don't already have on hand. Thanks for looking!

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Posted
1 hour ago, BK9300 said:

Amazing craftsmanship, Daniel - a lot of skill, and patience, required to achieve this work!

Thank you, Brian! I often think that patience trumps skill. Especially in my case!😂

Posted

I got a lot done, today! Spent a great deal of it making fittings. Spent a part of it losing and/or ruining fittings.😅 I figured out ways, so that I could install the pump, and be able to hook everything up, as it is ready. I think that was a success. I think. I finally got around to scribing the driver's side door lines, too. Here's a sort of photographic walk through my day. I think I'll be installing the main fuel line, next. Any questions or comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

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  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/15/2024 at 6:04 AM, David G. said:

This is some real beyond-next-level work Daniel!

But what do you do in your spare time? :D

David G.

 

Well, I appreciate that, David. I am happy with the work I've been doing, here. It's been fun, learning some new tricks, too! In my spare time, I'm into rocket surgery.😂

  • Haha 1
Posted

I installed the return lines to the tank, then connected the shutoff bypass at the pump end. I wish I had made the shutoff bypass hose a tad longer. It's not critically short, but it would look better, with a little more "lay" to it. The return lines are some old Verlinden rubber "hose". A bit longer, and a little twist and curl would look better. If I decide to replace the hose, I'll address my second minor annoyance--my fittings are too long, I think. They look okay, though, so, not sure I'll take this apart. I installed the main fuel line, as well. 

Next, I needed to run the cable for the fuel shutoff. That would require a new hole in the firewall. That was quickly accomplished using a tool I "made" a couple of years ago, using an electric eraser (really?!). I discovered that, if I put heat-shrink tube on the shanks of some carbide bits, it would hold them. It worked beautifully for drilling holes quickly, in light metal that's already installed, and can't deal with a heavy hand! The motor in the eraser is high RPM, but, the torque is so low, that, if even very small bits grab, the motor stops, rather than the bit snapping. The first hole went so smoothly, I went ahead and drilled another. 

The next order of business was to run the shielded blue cable up the chassis/cage tube, through the firewall. I bound the cable to the pipe with zip-ties. I did this tutorial, a while back:

Finally, I installed Shinkicker! Next up, I have to make a handle for the fuel shutoff, to mount to the dash. D'oh! As always, your comments, questions and critiques are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

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  • Like 3
Posted

You are so resourceful Daniel, clever idea with the electric eraser, who would have thought of that except you? 😁

You must be limited to a fairly large hole size however because these carbide drill bits are very brittle (when I say big I don't mean 1/8 inch holes).

Your project is progressing well, precision work, what else can we expect from you my friend! 👌

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

You are so resourceful Daniel, clever idea with the electric eraser, who would have thought of that except you? 😁

You must be limited to a fairly large hole size however because these carbide drill bits are very brittle (when I say big I don't mean 1/8 inch holes).

Your project is progressing well, precision work, what else can we expect from you my friend! 👌

Thanks, my friend! I initially bought the eraser to experiment with using it for engine-turning. That didn't work, so, I thought I would see if I could use it for something else. I discovered that, with the heat-shrink on the shank, they'd fit the eraser. I have to fool around with it, a bit, to get it straight, and eliminate the wobble, but, once that's done (it really doesn't take much time or effort) it works, wonderfully! I haven't tried my smallest bits, in it, but it'll spin a .4mm bit at a very high speed, but, the super-low torque stops the motor, if a bit catches. I've been pretty amazed, by that! I really like it for sheet metal--especially if it's already installed. I was able to drill the holes for the wing-mounting brackets, in the wing of the Supermodified, with it. This thing is certainly coming along! I feel like I've made some pretty decent progress, over the last week, or so. I hope to finish the steering up, tonight!

Posted

Daniel you just keep forging ahead, with inovative solutions to modeling issues.  There is hardly an update that goes by when I don't pick up another valuable tip. You just keep making all of us better modelers.

Posted

I have a milk frother I bought a while back to mix my morning cocoa. But the switch was too awkward for it to be easily used for its intended purpose so I was trying to think of some way of using it as a mini-tool of sorts. The biggest challenge is adapting the motor unit to accommodate the tools.

I'll have to start checking Staples and other office supply stores to see if I can find a tool with which to replicate the one you've made.

Thanks for the tip Daniel!

BTW great progress on the build too! ;) 

David G.

Posted
On 12/18/2024 at 12:15 AM, Ian McLaren said:

Daniel you just keep forging ahead, with inovative solutions to modeling issues.  There is hardly an update that goes by when I don't pick up another valuable tip. You just keep making all of us better modelers.

Thank you, Ian! I truly appreciate that. I am always hopeful somebody can get some use from some of this stuff.

 

Posted
On 12/19/2024 at 6:47 AM, David G. said:

I have a milk frother I bought a while back to mix my morning cocoa. But the switch was too awkward for it to be easily used for its intended purpose so I was trying to think of some way of using it as a mini-tool of sorts. The biggest challenge is adapting the motor unit to accommodate the tools.

I'll have to start checking Staples and other office supply stores to see if I can find a tool with which to replicate the one you've made.

Thanks for the tip Daniel!

BTW great progress on the build too! ;) 

David G.

It's always cool to find a new use for a tool, that it was never intended for. I think I got the eraser on Ebay, most likely from China. It's come in very handy, at times! Thank you, my friend!

Posted (edited)

I seem to be having "the trouble" again, in replying to this thread. 

I've got a few things worked on, the last few days. I washed the fuel fittings with a Vallejo grey wash, to tone them down. I used my doming block to make caps for the pushbar. They'll most likely get painted black. I made and installed the pittman arm and drag link. I used the eraser drill, again, to drill the dash because I forgot to make and install a handle for the fuel shutoff. Duh! Finally, I milled a fuel block from aluminum rod. I think it worked out, pretty nicely! I should be really getting into the manifold, pretty soon! As always comments are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

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Edited by Straightliner59
Posted

Wow Daniel! So many little details that I would never think of. I'm guessing that you've built real world competition cars.

David G.

Posted
6 hours ago, David G. said:

Wow Daniel! So many little details that I would never think of. I'm guessing that you've built real world competition cars.

David G.

Thanks, David! My experience working on real race cars is minimal. I've hung out with a lot of guys who do/have, and I've spent a lot of time hanging around the pits at drag races, and picked up a lot of that little stuff, just from being around. Honestly, I kinda hate working on real cars!😅 Until I'm done, then I feel like I accomplished something! 

Posted

I decided to shoot some metallizer aluminum on the manifold, to see where I stand. I liked it enough to shoot some flat clear, over that. I installed the fuel block, and did a little work on the mag, but, I suspect that'll be redone, completely.😄 Now, i need to drill the throttle bodies for the injectors--I had planned to do that, before I painted the manifold, but, I didn't want to strip the paint, so...

I shot clear purple over half of the stacks. The other four will be amber-ish. I used Parafilm to mask the bases. It's perfect for these instances, because it has a straight edge, and it conforms to anything. It's designed, originally for laboratory use, so it doesn't leave residue. I'm sold on the stuff, thanks to Andy Sapiro. I'll see if I can't finish up the injectors and lines, today, along with the paint on the remaining stacks.

I was looking for something to use to plug the stacks, to keep objects out of them. Tennis balls seemed logical. I found a box of quilting pins with 3 mm round heads. They're too big, in their natural state, so I chucked one in the lathe, and sanded it to size (regulations call for tennis balls to be from 2.57"-2.70" in diameter--day-glow yellow balls first came into use in 1972, so, we're good, technically and chronologically! The things we learn, because we model!😂). The sanding gives it a look to the naked eye, of a fuzzy texture. Only one problem: the box I bought only had seven yellow-headed pins! Questions, comments and critiques are always welcomed.  Thanks for looking!

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well, I think they look pretty, together! I've got a good start on the injector hoses, too. Turns out, I'm going to need more yellow pins, anyway--a couple didn't stand up to the sanding process, even as gentle as I could be. So, I need three.  I am going to try my hand at "ship-rigging" to tether to balls together. Kind of interested if I can make it work! Thanks for looking!

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Edited by Straightliner59
  • Like 2

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