Straightliner59 Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 1 hour ago, David G. said: Well, it's like I say Daniel: "Model builders, we're problem solvers who create our own problems to solve!" It looks like you have matters well in hand. Cheers! David G. Then, in that regard, I am an expert modeler! I definitely will create a plethora of problems for myself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 I just went through this whole thread and I have to say that you're doing an incredible job with the fabrication on this '55. It's definitely going to be one of the better models built from this kit. Not saying that the kit is bad, but it needs a bunch of work. I built one of these as a Gasser a few years ago and had to modify a lot, but you are taking a few steps further and I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 7 minutes ago, W-409 said: I just went through this whole thread and I have to say that you're doing an incredible job with the fabrication on this '55. It's definitely going to be one of the better models built from this kit. Not saying that the kit is bad, but it needs a bunch of work. I built one of these as a Gasser a few years ago and had to modify a lot, but you are taking a few steps further and I like it. Thank you, Niko. I appreciate that! There are likely plenty of guys who would say that this is a bad kit, for any number of reasons. I've always felt like this, about the Badman: While it has its shortcomings, it makes up for every one of them, with "cool"! I built one a little over 50 years ago, and I loved it, so I figured it was about time to do another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 This engine, from the Monogram '66 Malibu (red version!😁)has some pretty odd qualities. Both ends of the block are molded at a slight angle. Those angles match up with the angles molded into the front motor plate, and the bellhousing. Weird, wild stuff! Because the kit's motor plate fills the space, there's no cast-in mounting boss for the front cover. I added one from Evergreen. The front cover juts up, past the deck, as it is molded. Adding the pan rail to the bottom of the block put the center of the crankshaft right where it should be, distance-wise, from the deck of the block. I added a couple of bits of split tube, to create main bearings, of a sort, in order to positively locate the rotational centerline of the drivetrain. Now, along with the rod protruding from the differential, I can be sure that the entire driveline aligns, when I am ready to start making the mounts--that shouldn't be too long! I am leaning toward making the pan from this pink foam/Renshape-type material. I've had it a while, but have yet, to use it. I just milled one side of this, where I'd sawn it from the bigger block. That works, wonderfully! Oh, yeah, my cool, new Moon steering wheel! Thanks to all for looking, and for your likes and, especially your comments! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 So, yeah! I went ahead and started building an oil pan using that pink stuff.😃 It's easy to see why it's ideal for prototyping. It machines, and works, fantastically. I still need to add the sump--which I plan to make longer, to match a marine performance unit. Obviously, there's a lot of shaping, to do, and details to add, but, we're getting somewhere--down a sidetrack!😅I was just supposed to be doing enough to get it ready to make the motor mounts, for it. The white cylinder head will have the exhaust port details sawn off, to replace the wonky carvings on the '66 Malibu's heads. Just for grins, I set the beginnings of the Crower injection manifold, and valve covers on it--now, we're getting somewhere. No photos of that, yet. Stay tuned. Thanks for looking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Impressive work with that engine Daniel! I'm afraid that I would have just found one in the spare parts box and said. "Aaayyy, dat's good enough!" Come to think of it, I've actually done just that with real life cars! Cheers! David G. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 17 hours ago, David G. said: Impressive work with that engine Daniel! I'm afraid that I would have just found one in the spare parts box and said. "Aaayyy, dat's good enough!" Come to think of it, I've actually done just that with real life cars! Cheers! David G. Don't think I wasn't looking around, for something!😁 I thought one of the engines from the '67 Corvette, or from the later road racer 'Vette, but, they both seemed too small. I did end up cutting those exhaust ports from the '67's heads. There aren't a whole lot of 1/24th Big Blocks, to choose from, and most of them come from two "lines". I bought a 1/24 409 from Texas 3D, but, I thought it was too nicely detailed, for this old Monogram kit. Oh, well. I'm having fun with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 I got the pan mostly shaped, and got the flange and main seals on. It drops right into place, and even kind of snaps in, in perfect alignment. Blind squirrel! I set the valve covers and manifold in place. Starting to look like an engine! I'm working on a design for the mounts for the chassis. I'm shooting for something that will allow me to simply drop in the block/trans assembly. That will make any subsequent test-fitting much easier. It's getting closer to having paint on the chassis. Thanks for looking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 27 Author Share Posted June 27 I got the motor mounts installed. I have since removed the rear ones--they need to be lowered about 3/32". I discovered that, once I'd slipped the trans onto the main shaft. Minor setback. I used a .0312" end mill to groove a length of .060"X.125" Evergreen strip. I then closed off one end, so that the motor plates can slip into the channel, and be held in place by the .020"X.060" "stop". Other than that, I need to make the front shock mounts and shocks, and reassemble everything temporarily, one last time, before painting the chassis. Your questions and comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 That's some nice sculpting Daniel! David G. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Coomer Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 The oil pan turned out great, nice idea with the foam. I will have to use that idea in future builds. Thanks for sharing… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 22 hours ago, David G. said: That's some nice sculpting Daniel! David G. Thank you, my friend! I still have some work to do, on it, but, I wanted to fix the rear engine mounts, first. The opening in the firewall, for the driveline had to be enlarged, and, still, I had to go back to my original 4-speed trans, because the Lakewood bellhousing is smaller in diameter than that area of the auto. The touch of red color will look good, down in there, too. 21 hours ago, Tony Coomer said: The oil pan turned out great, nice idea with the foam. I will have to use that idea in future builds. Thanks for sharing… Thanks, Tony! That stuff sands very easily. I found mine on Ebay. I think if you search "Renshape" to find out what the name for it is, then search that, the pink stuff I have should show, too. I really like working it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 Finally got the motor mounts sorted out. Tacky-glued everything back together. Everything seems to be playing very nicely, together! Front shocks and mounts, next. Then after a couple of final items, I can take it apart one last time, and clean it all up and paint it. I think.😃 Comments and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 A couple of things I've been fiddling around with. I got the valve covers done, mostly. I turned a new breather cap, and used a loop of Detail Master detailing wire to make a grommet. The new one, alongside an original (albeit not quite the same, as I'd always assumed they were). Thinking maybe I should have just left it alone!😂 I also made some aluminum spacers for them, to allow for more "rump-rump"! I also got started on the, well...starter. Thanks for looking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Nice work on the motor mounts and valve covers! David G. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 18 hours ago, David G. said: Nice work on the motor mounts and valve covers! David G. Thanks! I appreciate that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 (edited) Some how it figures it would be you who is the only other guy to put Jomar stud girdle spacers under his BBC valve covers. I have a set for my next build as per the photos below. The car we raced in the early70s, I just love the authenticity you put into your models! I appologise for the huge photo but it was sent to me as one image but does show of the spacers quite well Edited July 3 by Ian McLaren 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 4 Author Share Posted July 4 (edited) Well, I could see these valve covers, that I really wanted to use, just weren't tall enough for the cam I plan to install!😁 Mine are only about an inch thick, though. Your printed head looks excellent! Adding little, authentic details, is such an enjoyable part of this hobby, for me! Stuff like this, is stuff I've seen and thought it would be cool, to do, in the right place. Some guys just throw stuff at their models, because they can--I like to think it through, a bit. Racers don't put stuff on their cars that isn't necessary, mostly. I try to follow that, even though I've never been on a crew, or anything. I've known a ton of racers, though, and getting it right, has always been important! Edited July 4 by Straightliner59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 39 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said: Well, I could see these valve covers, that I really wanted to use, just weren't tall enough for the cam I plan to install!😁 Mine are only about an inch thick, though. Your printed head looks excellent! Adding little, authentic details, is such an enjoyable part of this hobby, for me! Stuff like this, is stuff I've seen and thought it would be cool, to do, in the right place. Some guys just throw stuff at their models, because they can--I like to think it through, a bit. Racers don't put stuff on their cars that isn't necessary, mostly. I try to follow that, even though I've never been on a crew, or anything. I've known a ton of racers, though, and getting it right, has always been important! The reason for the thicker spacers on the BBC was with the solid roller camshafts and required spring pressures the rocker arm studs would flex and eventually snap off and the pressured s also played havock with valve lash. Jomar solved both problems with their girdle the studs would support each other through the u-bolts that also locked down the valve adjustment. They made valve adjustment a little more tedious but the reliabilty gains were well worth the extra effort 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 4 Author Share Posted July 4 2 hours ago, Ian McLaren said: The reason for the thicker spacers on the BBC was with the solid roller camshafts and required spring pressures the rocker arm studs would flex and eventually snap off and the pressured s also played havock with valve lash. How thick are they? It looks like I may need to make new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 4 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: How thick are they? It looks like I may need to make new ones. It just looks big cause there's no rocker arms on the studs. By the way, you're using that new 3/4-inch race cam, right? lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 17 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: How thick are they? It looks like I may need to make new ones. As much as I remember the spacer itself was 1.25" tall and used two .025 reinforced valve cover gaskets, one below and one above. The ones in my model photo are oversized at .092 tall but they tend to warp. To repair that I sand them down to close to where you are I think (080") as per this photo or a scale 1.28". Hard to tell when everything is the same color but to my eye it might have to be a bit shorter. But the .080 I think may be workable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 17 hours ago, dwc43 said: It just looks big cause there's no rocker arms on the studs. By the way, you're using that new 3/4-inch race cam, right? lol Well, who wouldn't?!😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 4 hours ago, Ian McLaren said: As much as I remember the spacer itself was 1.25" tall and used two .025 reinforced valve cover gaskets, one below and one above. The ones in my model photo are oversized at .092 tall but they tend to warp. To repair that I sand them down to close to where you are I think (080") as per this photo or a scale 1.28". Hard to tell when everything is the same color but to my eye it might have to be a bit shorter. But the .080 I think may be workable. Thank you, Ian. I did make some new ones. I didn't get a chance, before bed, to shoot them, and I just got home, tonight, so it might be late tomorrow night, or Saturday, before I get a chance I think they look a little better, now. If they're too thick, I still have the first set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 9 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: Thank you, Ian. I did make some new ones. I didn't get a chance, before bed, to shoot them, and I just got home, tonight, so it might be late tomorrow night, or Saturday, before I get a chance I think they look a little better, now. If they're too thick, I still have the first set! Daniel, I forgot there is a scale difference, you are putting so much detail into the 55, I was regarding it as a 1/16th when doing my calculations, the correct number for what I was aiming for in 1/25 would be .05". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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