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Posted

Looking for a little help here was wondering if after i chop it should i use regular model glue or use some sort of epoxy?

Also resizing windows how should i go about doing this?

btw the kit im working on is a revell '55 Ford F-100 truck

I'm looking to cut about 1/4 in out of the top about a scale 5'' chop

any help would be great

thanks,

Chris

Posted

I like to use a combination of adhesives for reattaching the roof depending on the application i will start out with a good liquid cement (tenax or ambroid).use the melting reaction to get a good bond and also the stuff that squishes out makes a great filler after that is dry and some minor clean up add extra plastic that overlaps both sides of the cut to make it strong again then for good measure adding epoxy or super glue for strength .as for resizing the windows after you complete the chop test fit the kit glass and see if it will work by cutting a little off the top otherwise you may have to use thin clear acetate make a template by placing a piece of masking tape over the widow and trace the edges cut your piece a little larger than needed and trim and test fit until you got a winner could take awhile or if you get lucky it'll work the first time just be patient and don't settle for almost. the rear window should be easier.one more thing to consider is sometimes the cab has a bit of a taper to it so when you cut out the middle part the top will need to be wider and longer to mate up with the bottom . meaning that you may need to add a little to the middle going front to back and side to side in other words the roof has to be cut into fourths but really just cut in half twice a second roof is helpful but this can be accomplished with appropriate sized plastruc or evergreen strips.hopefully this helps but just remember to do what makes sense to you and have fun

Posted

For heavier structural glue joints, especially those that will never show, I learned a neat way to make them very strong. I use 5-minute epoxy, and work in 1/4"-1/2" strips of paper towel, much like doing fiberglass layup in 1:1. After the epoxy has cured, it can be ground down and shaped quite easily with a Dremel.

I've used this method on plastic parts for full-sized cars with excellent results. A co-worker got some JDM-spec turn signals for his Subaru and one had a mounting tab nearly broken off when it arrived; he was sweating bullets over it, because it was hard enough to find them in the first place. I reattached the broken tab for him, and the part has been on the car over a year now...he says the repaired part felt stronger than the other one. :lol:

Posted

well thanks guys im pretty confident that with all the advice i should be able to get this done ill post some pictures when i get the chop finished

thanks again

Chris

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