'58 Impala - "I just love tuck 'n roll."

[SpeedShift]

 

2 hours ago, FoMoCo66 said:

That interior looks like it came from a kit. Nice job!

Thanks much...so far, so good.

I need to detail the headliner - red trim lines between the roof pleats.

Need to add some things....(now where did I put my Mooneyes gas pedal.......and the fuzzy dice. ?)

 

Edited May 2, 2024 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

On 4/28/2024 at 4:56 PM, SpeedShift said:

While we're on the brief subject of the Pharoahs....Shuichi Sakamoto , a modeler in Japan, created some 1/25th scale Pharaohs figures to go with his American Graffiti car builds.

The likeness of each was really incredible.

Does anyone recall what modeling magazine featured his figures? Did an internet search, only found 1999 Fine Scale Modeler (November vol.17 #9) that featured his '32 Deuce Milner hot rod build.

 

Figured out where the article on the Sakamoto Pharaohs figures was...Scale Auto Enthusiast December 1999 Vol. 21 No. 5 issue 126.

Sculpting these in 1/25th scale, let alone getting the likeness right, was quite an achievement. 

Wish he had them mass produced.

 

 

Edited May 12, 2024 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

[Ulf]

I'll throw in a wild card, the bronze 57 Chevy. Now I can't find a picture online but I've never seen it specifically built in AG context.
 

[styromaniac]

2 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

Figured out where the article on the Sakamoto Pharaohs figures was...Scale Auto Enthusiast December 1999 Vol. 21 No. 5 issue 126.

Sculpting these in 1/25th scale, let alone getting the likeness right, was quite an achievement. 

Wish he had them mass produced.

 

 

" Tie him to the car... and drag him."

[customline]

The top of the front seats must have been tricky. How did you manage that tight radius? 

[SpeedShift]

On 5/14/2024 at 11:10 PM, customline said:

The top of the front seats must have been tricky. How did you manage that tight radius? 

Fortunately, those Evergreen plastic half round strips were thin, so liquid cement brushed underneath, then taped the ends of the strips down over the top of the seat.

Trimmed the ends of the strips even to each other - after the glue had set. 

Edited May 16, 2024 by SpeedShift

[customline]

2 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

Fortunately, those Evergreen plastic half round strips were thin, so liquid cement brushed underneath, then taped the ends of the strips down over the top of the seat.

Trimmed the ends of the strips even to each other - after the glue had set. 

So you used what, specifically (brand and type),  for a liquid solvent cement?  In some of my attempts to use a solvent on a thin strip that was being pulled into a radius like that it would just weaken the strip and it would break. I found I had to use CA in those circumstances of a bend like that. Maybe what you used was "cooler" than what I've been using. 

[SpeedShift]

On 5/16/2024 at 1:41 PM, customline said:

So you used what, specifically (brand and type),  for a liquid solvent cement?  In some of my attempts to use a solvent on a thin strip that was being pulled into a radius like that it would just weaken the strip and it would break. I found I had to use CA in those circumstances of a bend like that. Maybe what you used was "cooler" than what I've been using. 

This build started several years ago when I set it aside, but based on the number of empty bottles I have in my discard box, the preferred liquid cement was always Testors in the pink label (the current label post Model Master demise is a red label).

I have tried various liquid cements I've found at my LHS, (Plastruct Plastic Weld, Tenax,  Tamiya etc.) and I'm sure each is formulated for whatever plastic (styrene, polystyrene,) they intended.

But my preferred liquid cement is this one by Testors.

If the Evergreen plastic strip is flexible enough and not too thick or brittle, the cement will help weaken it to take a bend.

I do recall in some instances where the plastic strip pulled loose from the curved top.

So, I taped the ends down again over the curve - and held it in place with the best masking tape I had on hand, after applying some superglue under the end of the strip, and hitting it with some Zap kicker on a tiny Q tip thing - micro brushes.

Sometimes being stubborn helps.

Edited May 19, 2024 by SpeedShift

[SpeedShift]

On 5/12/2024 at 4:55 PM, Ulf said:

I'll throw in a wild card, the bronze 57 Chevy. Now I can't find a picture online but I've never seen it specifically built in AG context.
 

Wow...I missed that one.

Now I have to watch it again....: )

I'll start here:

 

Edited May 19, 2024 by SpeedShift

[styromaniac]

5 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

Wow...I missed that one.

Now I have to watch it again....: )

I'll start here:

 

" Hey Zuto...what happened to your Flathead ? "                                         " Your Mutha ! "                                  " Hey...theres a very wicked '55 Chevy lookin' for you ! "

Edited May 19, 2024 by styromaniac

[Ulf]

5 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

Wow...I missed that one.

Almost everyone has done so.
Immediately after filming, the car was sold and exported to Sweden where it still exists today, I think. I last saw it less than ten years ago. 
With a bit of luck I will be able to post some pictures this fall so you can build an accurate replica.

[Ulf]

More info reg 1957 Chevrolet 

https://www.imcdb.org/v233275.html

 

 

[espo]

13 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

Wow...I missed that one.

Now I have to watch it again....: )

I'll start here:

 

For those of us of a certain age, any time you hear this music or watch this movie it's like reliving your formative years. 

[SpeedShift]

11 hours ago, Ulf said:

More info reg 1957 Chevrolet 

https://www.imcdb.org/v233275.html

 

 

Yes, that would be it.

Thanks for the link...this is a good one:

IMCDb.org: "American Graffiti, 1973": cars, bikes, trucks and other vehicles

[SpeedShift]

Noticed in reference pictures the American Graffiti '58 Impala has a slight rake to the stance...the stock AMT kit has the body a bit low on all four wheels.

 

Fabricated a lift kit for the rear suspension. 

Think this might get it where I want.

 

Edited May 29, 2024 by SpeedShift

[milo1303s]

On 4/28/2024 at 2:24 PM, SpeedShift said:

Just what I need, another nice car to model.

Nice job on that car.

Did you put a scratch on it? Not a big one needed, as "it's ain't the size here..... its the principle" LOL

"that '56 Desoto that belonged to some friend of the Pharohs that whats-his-name "scratched" while leaning on it....."

The infamous "you scratched Gil Gonzale's car" scene...the look on Ants face at 2:23 is funny as hell.

 

Every time I watch AG I notice another cool car, the one I can't figure out is the pickup at Mels diner that has a drag chute on the tailgate....its also at 1:20 in this vid.

 

 

39 or 40 Ford pickup I believe !!!

Edited May 31, 2024 by milo1303s

[SpeedShift]

I'm just about ready to quit using MCW clear gloss enamel.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong and you guys may have some tips on how to address the issue.

While I liked the results using regular MCW enamel with their hardener, my experience so far with the MCW clear gloss and hardener has been a disappointment.

My first experience ended up with not just orange peel - but orange lumps on some of the surface.

I had to sand off the gloss cote to get the surface level again. That required respraying much of the MCW white enamel base coat where the white color got removed.

After sanding, polishing and cleaning the body and getting the nice white base back, I thought I might give the gloss another try.

Today is a nice day, low humidity.

I figured the problem with the first attempt was not thinning the gloss clear enough when I airbrushed it - I had used the MCW gloss and the MCW gloss hardener per their ratio , with just a drop of Tamiya lacquer thinner.

Maybe that was too thick, not thinned enough.

This morning, after cleaning the body with a Testors Model Masters tack cloth, I did a near 1 to 1 thinner ratio to the same 2 to 1 gloss(#1017E)/gloss hardener (#1017EH) and decided to go with light mist coats first.

Well, the mist coats went on ok - but had some slight eggshell surface texture.  When I attempted to apply the final wet coat -  it did the orange peel /lumps thing again.

Didn't seem to want to level out at all.

I have a new GREX airbrush, spraying with a static tank pressure of 30 which goes to 20 when applying paint.

My feeling - what's the point continuing with this gloss clear...if I have to keep wet sanding the gloss off if I want to get a smooth surface.

 

Not sure where to go next...I don't have any Furure/Pledge and I didn't like the results using Quick Shine on clear windshields...it dried very wavy.

(also posting in the Model Building Questions and Answers hoping to get some help).

 

Edited June 7, 2024 by SpeedShift