bill-e-boy Posted June 9, 2024 Author Posted June 9, 2024 The new rear chassis rails - held together by small screws to ensure that they are the same when shaping And the newly tubbed rear fenders. And they are now wide enough to fit the big rear meats from the Vicky. I now may be able to get the back down a bit more as a bonus Thanks for looking 4
bill-e-boy Posted June 26, 2024 Author Posted June 26, 2024 Working on this at what seems a snail pace. Not a lot over the last week or so - life interruptions keep getting in the way of modeling. I have been working on narrowing the rear end. I made up a jig with some sheet metal and magnets. The Allen key is to provide spacing for the chassis from the jig. First pix is of chassis set up in the jig before cutting. Note that I have installed an extra cross member to provide attachment for the new chassis rails. Next up is the chassis rails cut off before clean up The new rails glued on using the jig to make sure all is straight Although the rear of the chassis can still be seen when the body is mounted it is not as exposed as with the original due to the straightening of the rear section of the new rails. As I am not using the fuel tank and cover I need to cover the rails so I will make up a rolled pan. Two pieces of 1.5 x 4mm glued up and glued onto the back of the body. I will shape up when the glue has set up I have also been working on the body filling and filing the cut lines Til next update thanks for looking 4
bill-e-boy Posted June 30, 2024 Author Posted June 30, 2024 Had to make some adjustments to the floor pan to fit around the new rails and the tubed guards Next up was mounting the Lil John rear end. Mocked up the chassis and guards to get the required ride height. I then notched the rear rails for the cross member and glued that in I also put some brass dowels into the chassis extensions by angle drilling from the top. While waiting the glued crossmember to set up I attacked the top insert to remove it. First up I removed most of the moulding/bead with an Xacto chisel blade then went to work with a 230 grit sanding board to remove what was left of the bead and the textured insert. Next I will work through the grades to knock back the sanding marks Thanks for looking 3
NOBLNG Posted June 30, 2024 Posted June 30, 2024 Fabulous work you’re doing on this one Bill and your original build is really a thing of beauty!?? I am currently tubbing a’32 Deuce, but I am not as ambitious or talented as you, so I am sticking with the stock front axle. Can’t wait to see where you go with this.?
bill-e-boy Posted July 5, 2024 Author Posted July 5, 2024 On 7/1/2024 at 8:04 AM, NOBLNG said: I am not as ambitious or talented as you Thanks for the kind comments. Ambitious yes, talented we will see if it all pans out
bill-e-boy Posted July 5, 2024 Author Posted July 5, 2024 I have worked on details and on the rolled pan and have made another moulding to keep away from a wide overbearing rolled pan. 2
Speedpro Posted July 6, 2024 Posted July 6, 2024 Real nice work on that lower molding! Looks perfect!
Zippi Posted July 7, 2024 Posted July 7, 2024 This is looking really nice. I've never chopped the top on one but it's coming.
mrm Posted July 7, 2024 Posted July 7, 2024 4 hours ago, Zippi said: This is looking really nice. I've never chopped the top on one but it's coming. You should try it. It looks scary, or should I say- intimidating. But in reality it is not that big of a deal. Plan things well, take your time and you will be surprised of the result. You can do it.
bill-e-boy Posted July 12, 2024 Author Posted July 12, 2024 On 7/7/2024 at 11:49 PM, Zippi said: This is looking really nice. I've never chopped the top on one but it's coming. Go for it. It is scary looking at it for the first time but once in you will never go back. A 32 is a lot easier than say a 49 Merc. As @mrm says "you can do it" 1
bill-e-boy Posted July 15, 2024 Author Posted July 15, 2024 As I tubbed the rear guards I now need to look at the interior as it will not fit. Doing a bit of eyeball measuring it ooks like I can narrow the rear seat are down by one pleat on each side. Out comes the trusty razor saw. A tip here - if your saw is dragging a bit rub a candle across the blade, it makes a world of difference. First pix is marking cut lines and horizontal cuts made Next pix shows both sides cut with the passenger side tubbed with a strip of plastic. Drivers side has a cutting oops being filled in with a bit of plastic filler. The tub extensions are slightly wider and will be filled back to fit the door cards I have also been working on the body chop lines and paint detail of the engine but no pix of this yet Thanks for looking 2
mrm Posted July 15, 2024 Posted July 15, 2024 Honestly, at this point completely eliminating the rear seat would be a lot better option as it just looks silly. Most '32 sedans/Phaetons I've seen in real life that were either tubbed or extremely channeled or chopped, had their rear seats eliminated.
bill-e-boy Posted July 23, 2024 Author Posted July 23, 2024 On 7/16/2024 at 7:47 AM, mrm said: Honestly, at this point completely eliminating the rear seat would be a lot better option as it just looks silly. Most '32 sedans/Phaetons I've seen in real life that were either tubbed or extremely channeled or chopped, had their rear seats eliminated. Nothing like a challenge. I hear you on the fact that there is not much space left after the rear has been tubbed but I feel that a sedan that has had the rear seat deleted is not complete. I know in some extreme builds there just is not room for a rear seat. I don't think the tubbing in my case is to severe, in fact the rear seat is already tubed to cater for the hiboy version, I just made the tubs wider.
bill-e-boy Posted July 23, 2024 Author Posted July 23, 2024 On with the build - been working on a number of fronts The rear seat area tubbing was completed and now has paint. As the carpet will be hard to see I will not flock it - or maybe. I have used a darker brown for the carpet which is the Tamiya LP-62 lacquer with dark brown added. I mixed the LP lacquer paint with Tamiya acrylic, and they seemed mix together. The seats and door cards were overcoated with semi-gloss clear and carpet is matt finish I decided to use a Parts by Parks billet steering column that I have had squirrelled away for yonks waiting for the right build. I was not happy with the blobby gear lever so that has been replaced with a pin with a small tapered knob on the opposite side for the indicator lever. It is hard to see as it is only 0.8mm in diameter on the large dimension. I machined this on my Unimat 3 lathe Parts by Parks column as it came Machining the indicator knob And the final result The door cards on the Revell 32 do not have any handles or winders. The window winders in this build will be replaced with electric windows so may put a couple of switches on the dash for that. For the door handles I flattened some silver coated copper wire and filed and shaped to suit. They were then painted with a new Molotow chrome pen. They will be cut to length when I fit them Moving on to the chassis I knew that I would need to do some work heare after the chassis mods. I tried to fit the mufflers in the chassi but they would just not fit. I have machined up some replacement cherry bombs. The Vicky kit exhausts are 1.8mm which scales out to 1.75" in real life. What serious rodder is going to use such skinny pipes, The new mufflers are drilled for 2" pipes which is better but 2.5" or 3" would have been better but I dont think I will have room for that size. I will be making new headers in 1.8mm solder when it arrives and 2mm for the exhausts from the collector onwards On a roll with my lathe - I was not happy with the brake booster after I separated it from the chassis crossmember. I turned up a replacement booster out of my diminishing stock of 8mm plastic round bar. You can see the remains of the original booster below the replacement. OD of the new booster is 7mm - 7" I am working on a number of fronts so will post more when I have completed more works Thanks for looking 3
bill-e-boy Posted July 28, 2024 Author Posted July 28, 2024 More work on the little details and changes Made up a hand brake lever to sit between the front seats. A triangle of plasti-card and a bit of wire. Will be painted same as interior with a small dab of black on the lever after it has been cut to length and cleaned up. I mocked up the firewall and the chassis with the motor to check for clearances. It looks like there will be a clash so I am in the process of widening the firewall recess Thanks for looking 3
bill-e-boy Posted August 10, 2024 Author Posted August 10, 2024 Things have been a bit slow as I had to fix up the milling attachment on my Unimat 3 lathe which cut into my bench time. Anyhow I have a few things ready for posting Firewall widening completed and now in primer ready for final sanding/filling. Compared with original. Hopefully I will not have any fit issues with the wide modular motor Top of motor with 3d printed air cleaner fitted. Air cleaner is way better than kit original. Painted semi-gloss black with silver dry brushed on filter ribs. I masked the inlet plenum chamber and sprayed the finned area with SMS chrome I have fitted the door handles shown in the last post Thanks for looking 3
Bullybeef Posted August 10, 2024 Posted August 10, 2024 Tidy work there Bill! I really like the narrowed rear seat, perfect place for the beverage cooler whilst attending the weekly summer hotrod meets.
mrm Posted August 11, 2024 Posted August 11, 2024 Wow, some really cool stuff going on. What color is it going to be?
bill-e-boy Posted August 25, 2024 Author Posted August 25, 2024 Still slow going but have a few things sorted Finished the interior. Added some scratch built parts to the rather spartan interior. A spoon accelerator pedal as there was only two foot pedals and the Modular motor is a manual, a couple of toggle switches for the electric windows made from flattened silver plated copper wire and finished off with Molotow, hand brake lever as posted earlier and a billet glovebox knob I turned up on my lathe The steering column as modified earlier was fitted and it really is for an automatic car but as the Modular motor from the AMT Vickie is a manual it will now be 5 on a tree!!!. The work I did widening the tubs on the rear seat turned out OK too. I had a lot of trouble with the guage decals - they must be getting a bit old and fragile as this build is from an original kit And the pix shows the side have sprung at the front - it is now glued back (again) I have done some work on the motor. I was not happy with the supplied AMT Vickie coil and plug wire set as it is very chunky around the coil area. I did some research and downloaded some pix and I ended up making two coil sets Here is my version in the raw And finally, the motor assembled with new plug wires and paint detail My they are ugly pix - I will take some better pix of the motor and post them up Thanks for looking 3
bill-e-boy Posted September 1, 2024 Author Posted September 1, 2024 Got some work done over the weekend. Made some collectors from heatshrink. I made a former up from 4 pieces 1.7mm solder, machined a cone and a 2mm solder outlet. Some 1/8" heat shrink just fitted over the outside of the primaries with a little pre-stretching and gave it some gentle heat And did some cleanup on the chassis and got some primer on it. All that did was show up some areas that needed more attention. It has now been re-primed and is ready for colour. And while I had the primer out, I shot some at the body and guards etc and now they are curing in my hot box And clearer pix of the motor Thanks for looking 5
BK9300 Posted September 1, 2024 Posted September 1, 2024 A lot of great modifications going on here - should look special once it's all assembled!
rv1963 Posted September 1, 2024 Posted September 1, 2024 Beautiful work on that chassis and motor, the entire build is coming along nicely.
bill-e-boy Posted December 18, 2024 Author Posted December 18, 2024 I am back on this. I have been posting updates in the 32 Sedan Build thread so I will close this one off Thanks Bill 1
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