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Posted

? That’s right there will be stripping and masking going on in here for your viewing pleasure ?

 

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Polar Lights POL960M/12 VW Beetle 1/25 scale

 

My friend down the street was building this Beetle as a double memorial for two of his car club member who had passed. Each side represents their respective car to the extent of what is already included in the box.

He laid down the paint pretty well but he used the wrong type of tape to mask. Once it bled he masked again to try to paint over the mistake but then it bled under the other way. Three times. He was so over it by then he just asked me to help out with that part of the build. It looked like something that I could handle but we’ll see.

 

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  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

First thing to do is strip the paint off. The Purple Pond was too shallow because of the container but then I switched to a smaller footprint container that fit the body perfectly under the Pond.

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The beige side was painted with Testors enamel which came off easily but the metallic purple was Testors lacquer. This required a lot of scrubbing to remove and I didn’t get it all off.

 

 

Edited by Edward Gore
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Posted

Yes, the Testors Lacquer had to soak for 3 days. I scrubbed some paint off each day after work. I stopped after the 3rd day because it looked good enough and I was getting bored with this step.

 

 

Posted

Dang! That was some rough masking work.

It looks like the paint will clean up well enough though.

David G.

Thanks for the link BTW!

  • Like 1
Posted

Makes you wonder what type of masking tape he was using. On the large container for the pond. I have the same issue, but I just put a scrap piece of an old 2x4 under one end and that makes the other end deep enough to cover most model bodies. I do like the container you ended up using and now I have to find something like that. 

  • Like 1
Posted

@blubaja Maybe they are. Maybe SuperClean "purple pond" is really that good! ?

@David G. Yes, it cleaned up just fine. Well enough anyway.

@espo I actually did that at first as well. A little part of the roof was still above the surface to I opted for an old, empty laundry detergent container. My Spyderco quickly removed the top ?️

 

Posted

Some putty work was needed on the edges some parts and the roof had two sink marks. While this was curing, I built the suspension and interior. 

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  • Like 1
Posted

The “glass” is all one part. I masked to paint the weather stripping* and to paint the edges black to block the prism effect. This makes the “glass” look more to scale. I’ll post a bunch of pictures of this because I haven’t built and painted an aircraft model in a long long time so I was very stoked on how this turned out.

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* there's that word again ...

 

 

Posted

The glass canopy looks great Bobby. 

When I built the Herbie version of this kit, I achieved much the same effect using flat black brush paint and a silver Sharpie.

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It's not as tidy looking as yours but I think it got the job done. 

Do you plan to add some chrome trim to the window surrounds? Most of the U.S. Beetles had chrome trim around the windows and it add a little depth and visual interest to the finished model.

Unless of course you're building this one as a Cal-looker.

cheers,

David G.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

That chrome detailing you added looks great on your Beetle. I don't have the skill yet to keep it that consistent all the way around each window like you did. My friend said that just black all around is what he wants anyway so I lucked out ?

Posted

Sanded putty, primer, then sanding a little more, then final primer. Then repaint base coat with Testors Tan flat enamel. I’ll let this sit for a week ⏲️

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Posted

Nice recovery!

One comment for your friend... use Tamiya tape, at least at the critical separation mark.  As you have painted the lighter color first, once you have the tape in place, spray the mating tape line with the lighter color (then let it dry) before spraying the other side with the purple.  Then at least any paint that has crept under the tape would be the lighter color!  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

That cleaned up pretty well. It looks good and smooth which is not always the case after a trip to the purple pond.

David G.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hi @Tom Geiger, This is a good technique when spraying the same system paints. The paints he gave me to work with are tan enamel and purple lacquer. Both Testors but I don't want the lacquer to attack the enamel. I'm waiting 1 week for the tan enamel to cure (Wednesday). I don't for sure if the lacquer will do anything funny with the enamel. I just don't want to take chances.

Hi @David G., Yes, the plastic is fine. Just the stubborn purple lacquer didn't want to come completely off. Had to use sanding sticks then light coat of primer then sanding sticks then light coat of primer, etc... Got it to where I needed it to be tho  

 

 

Posted

Waiting for the enamel side to cure for a week (Wednesday) before masking.

In the meantime I’ll work on the wheels. Different wheels for each side. I couldn’t use the wider slicks with mags because the diameters are different so the bug won’t sit level. I have to file material down to accept the same tires as the left side.

Left side represents a Dodgers fan so Dodger blue rims and a Tamiya metallic blue wash into the VW. White walls out.
Flat black over the chrome rims for the right side. White walls in.

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Posted

I have a roll of Scotchcal 220 by 3M. It’s a vinyl material that I cut into strips for masking. This was very helpful for this project.

 

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Posted

The paint cured for about a week before clear coat. I was concerned that this UPOL product would be too hot for the enamel side. First time using this and sprayed it right out of the can. I lightly misted all over a few coats before the thicker wet coats were applied. This worked because the enamel did not react. 

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