Best airbrush paints for beginners.

[FoMoCo66]

I am trying my hand with airbrushing. I have watched several YouTube videos and tutorials, I think I have a basic understanding. I have also been messing around with watered down acrylic craft paints for my technique. If I get into doing this on my models which paints should I start off with for primer, color, and clear? I would love your knowledge in this subject?.

Thanks,

Elliot

[NOBLNG]

I am no paint expert, but I find lacquers like Tamiya or Mr. Color the most foolproof.

[Zippi]

I always use Tamiya's white surface primer and I just recently tried Spash Paints.  It's a lacquer paint that comes pre-mixed.  Shack, Pour, and spray.  Their 2K clear needs to be mixed with a Catlyst so it will harden.  My first time using it and it worked Great.

[Oldriginal86]

Enamel has always been my go-to airbrushing paint. Little Testors jars mostly. Thinned with enamel reducer. The shine produced usually needs no clear. Light polishing to remove nibs and you’re good to go. Negative about enamel is the drying time. 

[TransAmMike]

Well, in my opinion, to practice with I'd use a quality craft acrylic paint.  It's cheap usually under $2.00 for a good size bottle,  and comes in many colors.  Hobby Lobby, even Wallyworld sells them.     I say this, because I see no point in using a more expensive paint that in my opinion takes practice to perfect a quality finish.     Just my 2 cents Elliot.

 

[FoMoCo66]

I just tried to decan a little bit of rustoleum crystal clear enamel tonight. Thinned it down with regular old paint thinner, then sprayed it on a spoon scuffed up to 6000 grit. I gave it some heavy and medium coats and let it dry. After drying it turned out matte, after a little more drying I wiped it with my finger and it came right off?. What did i do wrong, was it the paint, thinner, or something else?

I'm really curious on the topic of clears and primers now. ?

Thank you all.

[Mike 1017]

I have painted with all 3 types of paint. I have no favorite. It just takes practice. Donn Youst has a great Airbrush C.D. about painting with enamel. 

Good luck

Mike

[Dave G.]

11 hours ago, FoMoCo66 said:

I just tried to decan a little bit of rustoleum crystal clear enamel tonight. Thinned it down with regular old paint thinner, then sprayed it on a spoon scuffed up to 6000 grit. I gave it some heavy and medium coats and let it dry. After drying it turned out matte, after a little more drying I wiped it with my finger and it came right off?. What did i do wrong, was it the paint, thinner, or something else?

I'm really curious on the topic of clears and primers now. ?

Thank you all.

You're not giving yourself exactly the easiest route to a clear coat. However, for the sake of experimenting, try hardware store lacquer thinner instead of paint thinner. I use the lacquer thinner for decanted Rustoleum paints, mostly the 2x paints. And it works great.

[MeatMan]

I can only speak on my experiences but I've had the least success with acrylics. It could be my technique, as I'm no great painter.
I've tried the 50/50 split enamel/thinner method and it is good to use to avoid clear coats, as it comes out shiny.
Personally, I love pre-thinned lacquers for how they spray for me, but you need to clear them.
In the end, your patience, practice, and personal preference will determine what's best for you. G'luck!

[Bainford]

12 hours ago, FoMoCo66 said:

What did i do wrong, was it the paint, thinner, or something else?

Probably.

What airbrush are you using?

Something I have seen over and over on the forum is people learning to use an airbrush and starting out with an el cheapo airbrush and cut rate paints. I appreciate the logic behind starting with low priced paint and equipment, but the logic is ultimately flawed. There are many variables to overcome when learning to airbrush, but the most difficult to manage can be overcome by using proven supplies and equipment. General purpose or lawn furniture paint and Harbor Freight Chinese knock-off airbrushes throw way too many curve-balls at you as you attempt to develop your technique. I fully endorse experimentation with supplies and equipment, but first one must get a handle on the basics.

When it comes to airbrushes, quality doesn't necessarily mean expensive. Excellent brands such as Badger and Paasche have very reasonably priced, user-friendly airbrushes, and are well supported by their makers.

As for paints, go with a proven system when learning the art and developing technique. If you are not fussy about the type of paint, I would recommend lacquers for their ease of application and quick drying time. And if using lacquers, you can't go wrong with Tamiya. They are all very high quality products that work well together, and are designed specifically for the task at hand. Their primer is excellent right out of the spray can. Their paints, thinners, and clears all work very well together, as expected. Sticking with a proven system will prevent a lot of the frustration in learning the art, and when results don't meet expectations, the issues are diagnosable. There are many other very good brands of course, but I mention Tamiya because it is such a known quantity, and is readily available. Whatever brand you choose, stick with their system until you gain some successes. Then when you experiment with various products, you can better determine what is working out, and what isn't.

Some of that is more than you asked for, but has been added just to complete the thought. Good luck with your airbrushing.

[peteski]

Best pairs for airbrushing (for the beginner)?

Any "stinky" paint that is not water-based. I would say start with hobby paints to avoid disappointments when some hot solvent attacks the plastic car body.  I've been airbrushing (not prolifically, but enough to get quite familiar with my Badger 200 siphon feed airbrush) for over 30 years, and I still only airbrush the "stinky" paints.  Thinning, spraying (without anything clogging) then cleanup, it is *SO* much easier when using "stinky" paints.  When you jump right into water-based acrylic enamels, you could end up quitting airbrush because of the hassles and frustrations.  Start off using the easy to deal with paints.

[Skip]

I've shot a ton of paint through airbrushes doing sign work, custom automotive stuff, and model stuff over about a 30 plus year spread; it depends on what you are painting and the overall appearance you are looking for.

High Shine - Either Enamel or Lacquer, thin both with Lacquer Thinner (Reducer) The High Shiny Luster comes from the after paint and clear coat wet sanding either color sanding or wet sanding over the clear coat.

Medium to Shiny Luster - Acrylics + an Acrylic Clear Coat - Flat - Med. Luster - Shiney Clear Coat, you can use an Enamel, Lacquer or 2K Clear Coat over acrylics, In my opinion, I don't think they look as well as the Acrylic Clear Coats. You can buff the Acrylic Clears with a microfiber cloth or I have even heard of people using coffee filters to buff acrylics out to achieve more shine.

Brands - Vallejo Acrylics, Model Air or Game Air are the two go to pre-thinned paints that I use for acrylic painting.  I do on occasion use thinned craft paints thinned with either or both Vallejo Reducer or Vallejo Flow Improver. Thin the paint to just slightly thicker than skim milk, so say whole milk should just about right to begin with, adjust the paint thickness once you start spraying to get a good spray pattern.  Use a good Automotive grade lacquer-based primer, white, red oxide, gray or black matched to the color you are shooting.  If you shoot a Lacquer Clear coat test the stacked paints Primer-Color Coat- Clear Coat for overall compatibility, I've never had an issue with acrylic compatibility, but I still do test it for overall compatibility, so I don't get caught in a bind at the last minute.

Enamels and Lacquers -  MCW Paints, Scale Finishes, Splash Paints, Tamyia, Testers and a few others are what I usually shoot through the airbrush for bodies and some interior colors again there are clear coats in the flat, med and shiny ranges from the manufacturers line or another that is tested compatible with the color coat that you are shooting. Use a good Automotive grade lacquer-based primer, white, red oxide, gray or black matched to the color you are shooting.  Testing overall paint stack up, I always check the paints used Primer-Color Coat- Clear Coat for any compatibility issues, there have been times when I have been caught in a bind with Lacquers and Enamels reacting even after testing, often it is an issue of too much thickness of the clear coat reactivating the primer under the color coat, depending on how severe the reaction is you might get lucky and jus sand the orange peel out, other times it involves a trip to the purple pond for complete stripping. 

Rattle Can Paint Straight From the Can  -  I still use Rattle Can paints right out of the can, painting with a Rattle Can should be your first paint delivery system that you master.  Doing to may require a whole lot of stripping, sanding and polishing but it is the easiest paint system we use in building models.

Decanted Rattle Can Paint  -  Typically decanted rattle can paints are not in my preferred materials, I use them but really infrequently.  I do not decant any of the primers that I use, I prefer to shoot them onto the bodywork straight from the can to get both enough coverage and thickness enough to do some finish sanding on the primer. 
Dehydrator  - If you don't own a Dehydrator yet, get one, this is one thing that will help you get better with all of the paints we use, I use my $3-Garage Sale dehydrator on everything that will fit into it. Not only does a dehydrator speed up the curing process, it also in most cases yields a harder paint finish that can be polished out quicker. Make sure the dehydrator you get has a temperature control on it and do not exceed 110 to 115 degrees F.

That's probably enough to get you going, and for all the others who have their own patented paint systems arguing about what and which is the best! LoL!! I hope not!

The real thing here is to develop a painting system that works for you, where you're at, and with the temperatures you have in your area. That's why sometimes someone will recommend a certain primer, paint, thinner and clearcoat combination; the works like a charm for them, doesn't quite work somewhere else. That's when painting gets exasperating because you are getting sound advice from someone the combination works for them, but you are having problems getting it to work for you. The key to fixing paint issues is taking small steps back to a repeatable condition. Then follow that process every time you paint!

Long answer, but hope it helps you on your airbrush painting journey...

[FoMoCo66]

59 minutes ago, Skip said:

I've shot a ton of paint through airbrushes doing sign work, custom automotive stuff, and model stuff over about a 30 plus year spread; it depends on what you are painting and the overall appearance you are looking for.

High Shine - Either Enamel or Lacquer, thin both with Lacquer Thinner (Reducer) The High Shiny Luster comes from the after paint and clear coat wet sanding either color sanding or wet sanding over the clear coat.

Medium to Shiny Luster - Acrylics + an Acrylic Clear Coat - Flat - Med. Luster - Shiney Clear Coat, you can use an Enamel, Lacquer or 2K Clear Coat over acrylics, In my opinion, I don't think they look as well as the Acrylic Clear Coats. You can buff the Acrylic Clears with a microfiber cloth or I have even heard of people using coffee filters to buff acrylics out to achieve more shine.

Brands - Vallejo Acrylics, Model Air or Game Air are the two go to pre-thinned paints that I use for acrylic painting.  I do on occasion use thinned craft paints thinned with either or both Vallejo Reducer or Vallejo Flow Improver. Thin the paint to just slightly thicker than skim milk, so say whole milk should just about right to begin with, adjust the paint thickness once you start spraying to get a good spray pattern.  Use a good Automotive grade lacquer-based primer, white, red oxide, gray or black matched to the color you are shooting.  If you shoot a Lacquer Clear coat test the stacked paints Primer-Color Coat- Clear Coat for overall compatibility, I've never had an issue with acrylic compatibility, but I still do test it for overall compatibility, so I don't get caught in a bind at the last minute.

Enamels and Lacquers -  MCW Paints, Scale Finishes, Splash Paints, Tamyia, Testers and a few others are what I usually shoot through the airbrush for bodies and some interior colors again there are clear coats in the flat, med and shiny ranges from the manufacturers line or another that is tested compatible with the color coat that you are shooting. Use a good Automotive grade lacquer-based primer, white, red oxide, gray or black matched to the color you are shooting.  Testing overall paint stack up, I always check the paints used Primer-Color Coat- Clear Coat for any compatibility issues, there have been times when I have been caught in a bind with Lacquers and Enamels reacting even after testing, often it is an issue of too much thickness of the clear coat reactivating the primer under the color coat, depending on how severe the reaction is you might get lucky and jus sand the orange peel out, other times it involves a trip to the purple pond for complete stripping. 

Rattle Can Paint Straight From the Can  -  I still use Rattle Can paints right out of the can, painting with a Rattle Can should be your first paint delivery system that you master.  Doing to may require a whole lot of stripping, sanding and polishing but it is the easiest paint system we use in building models.

Decanted Rattle Can Paint  -  Typically decanted rattle can paints are not in my preferred materials, I use them but really infrequently.  I do not decant any of the primers that I use, I prefer to shoot them onto the bodywork straight from the can to get both enough coverage and thickness enough to do some finish sanding on the primer. 
Dehydrator  - If you don't own a Dehydrator yet, get one, this is one thing that will help you get better with all of the paints we use, I use my $3-Garage Sale dehydrator on everything that will fit into it. Not only does a dehydrator speed up the curing process, it also in most cases yields a harder paint finish that can be polished out quicker. Make sure the dehydrator you get has a temperature control on it and do not exceed 110 to 115 degrees F.

That's probably enough to get you going, and for all the others who have their own patented paint systems arguing about what and which is the best! LoL!! I hope not!

The real thing here is to develop a painting system that works for you, where you're at, and with the temperatures you have in your area. That's why sometimes someone will recommend a certain primer, paint, thinner and clearcoat combination; the works like a charm for them, doesn't quite work somewhere else. That's when painting gets exasperating because you are getting sound advice from someone the combination works for them, but you are having problems getting it to work for you. The key to fixing paint issues is taking small steps back to a repeatable condition. Then follow that process every time you paint!

Long answer, but hope it helps you on your airbrush painting journey...

WOW! That's a lot of amazing information! Right now I am experimenting with testors enamels. I just picked up there metal flake red, it looks amazing. This is the color I plan on painting my kustom 67 corvette by mpc.

[Oldriginal86]

That is a very nice color on just about any model. With different base colors, the finished color can be manipulated. Silver or gold base makes the metal flake pop. With a dark base it will come out as a “black cherry” look. That color red is semi transparent so be sure the base coat is consistent all over. Good luck and post the results.

[Dpate]

I’m a lacquer guy. I use all types of paint though. I pretty much do automotive lacquer paints for bodies(interior if it’s called for), Tamiya LP/Mr.hobby for everything else, and Tamiya enamels for tiny detailing. I do own Vallejo paints, Tamiya acrylic line up as well. Hot paints though I’d definitely practice on spoons or donor body.  They’re not as forgiving as regular lacquer paints, but they are easy to get the hang of though. 

Edited June 11, 2024 by Dpate

[bluestringer]

I use Tamiya Acrylics, the X and XF ones. They spray very well and are very forgiving. I either thin them with cheap lacquer thinner or Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner. For primer I use the Mr. Hobby 1000 in the spray can. For clear the Tamiya X-22 works well.

[Dave G.]

On 6/11/2024 at 4:37 PM, FoMoCo66 said:

WOW! That's a lot of amazing information! Right now I am experimenting with testors enamels. I just picked up there metal flake red, it looks amazing. This is the color I plan on painting my kustom 67 corvette by mpc.

This  color you don't want to thin 1-1. Using lacquer thinner dump the content of the bottle into a mixing cup, fill it ( the empty bottle) a bit over half way with just regular hardware store lacquer thinner and mix that into the paint in the cup. Stir together. This should spray nicely with a medium sized tip and 23 or so lb air pressure. I've even shot enamels up around 30 or 35 psi ! Keep back from the model a bit and fog the paint on. This will disperse the metallic flakes nicely and the paint should self level on the surface. If you shoot in too closely you could get striping in the finish. You can open up the paint flow more on your last pass around the model, which will improve gloss. Just keep going around the model till it's well covered. If you thin too much it won't cover, you won't get the color you're looking for and it will dry duller because the metallic flakes will surface.

Someone covered base color ( or primer color/tone) so I won't go there.

Edited June 13, 2024 by Dave G.

[bluestringer]

I use the Testor's enamels from time to time. I take the bottle and dump it into a 1oz. paint bottle. I then fill the Testor's bottle with cheap lacquer thinner and shake it up really well. Then dump that into the 1oz bottle with the paint. Shake it well. It sprays great like that, and usually does not require any clear as it comes out nice a shiny.

[Dave G.]

47 minutes ago, bluestringer said:

I use the Testor's enamels from time to time. I take the bottle and dump it into a 1oz. paint bottle. I then fill the Testor's bottle with cheap lacquer thinner and shake it up really well. Then dump that into the 1oz bottle with the paint. Shake it well. It sprays great like that, and usually does not require any clear as it comes out nice a shiny.

That would be correct for most of their color range. I do something similar. But I've seen that metallic burgundy color thinned 1-1, suffice it to say that I personally would want it just a bit thicker. That's also why I suggested a bit more air pressure.