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Posted

Hello,

  Quite busy at work so not much bench time these days.  But I managed to work the gas tank, straps and parking brake lines/cables.
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Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 3
Posted

Ismael,

Great work and detail sir. Please don't take the following the wrong way, I'm just offering some technical details for future reference, in an effort to help, not to criticize you. The 67 Impala was factory available with a big block engine option. In fact I once had a 67 SS-396, 4-speed, (12-bolt rear), Impala. Yet, I can understand you had engine fitment issues with this kit, with the oil pan possibly? Although Holley double pumper carburetors do have 2 accelerator pumps, one on each "end," the split fuel line technically goes into, and feeds the Float Bowls (which then feeds the accelerator pumps & everything else).

As a former 67 Impala owner, I really like where you're going with this build, and I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.

Posted
3 hours ago, Lone Wolf said:

Ismael,

Great work and detail sir. Please don't take the following the wrong way, I'm just offering some technical details for future reference, in an effort to help, not to criticize you. The 67 Impala was factory available with a big block engine option. In fact I once had a 67 SS-396, 4-speed, (12-bolt rear), Impala. Yet, I can understand you had engine fitment issues with this kit, with the oil pan possibly? Although Holley double pumper carburetors do have 2 accelerator pumps, one on each "end," the split fuel line technically goes into, and feeds the Float Bowls (which then feeds the accelerator pumps & everything else).

As a former 67 Impala owner, I really like where you're going with this build, and I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.

Hi Ken,

On the contrary, Thanks for the info!  I was not really sure about how the double fuel line works.  That clears it for me. So they are actually feeding the float bowls, not the internal "pump" itself.  Makes sense.

The fit issue was only with the aftermarket headers.  These are big and wide headers and did not fit within the frame.   I had to trim the frame a bit as well as one of the header tubes for them to drop. The frame hack is most likely a big no-no in real life but don't tell anyone ?

The headers also interfered with the stock steering mechanism. So I scratchbuilt my own "Rack and pinion-ish" looking thing, based on some full blown drag racing Impalas I've seen. 

Thanks,
Ismael  

Posted

Isreal,

I'm glad to help. Headers, can be very tricky with model kits since most resin's are "generic fit" not meant for any specific chassis or kit. This is why you might have seen people making their own out of solder, because it's soft and bends easily, but they can be difficult to assemble and glue (CA and/or epoxy, usually).

If carburetors have you mystified, other than the accelerator pump(s), which compensate for the additional volume of air that suddenly goes into the engine when opening the throttle (blades),  which would otherwise cause the engine to bog or "fall on it's face, " without them squirting extra fuel in, there is no internal "pump" inside of a carburetor. All of the "other fuel" used by the engine is drawn in by the vaccuum an engine creates (by the pistons going down on the intake strokes).

In simple terms, excluding the accelerator pump(s), engines suck in the fuel they need, so there's no "pump" inside of carburetors (just an external electric or mechanical fuel pump, feeding the carburetor float bowls). I hope this helps.

Posted

Thanks! Yes, I think the term pump may be confusing.  I now have a clearer idea of how it works.   I kept the mechanical fuel pump and the coil ignition system for a more period correct theme. 

As for the headers, I admit I fell in love with them even before deciding where to use them ?

Thanks,
Ismael

Posted
28 minutes ago, ismaelg said:

Thanks! Yes, I think the term pump may be confusing.  I now have a clearer idea of how it works.

If you have a general idea how a squirtgun squirts ("pumps") the water up to, and out of the nozzle, this is pretty much the same way an accelerator pump works, squirting gas as the throttle is opened (via mechanical linkage that moves when the throttle moves), except of course the accelerator pump is made of gasoline resistant materials.

 I kept the mechanical fuel pump and the coil ignition system for a more period correct theme. 

Cool. There are "point eliminator kits" or "conversion kits," that fit inside the old factory distrubitors, which use the same typical factory looking coils, but give you a very compact (but usually, more reliable)  electronic ignition system. I have one that I installed on my 68 El Camino (454, 4-speed) over 2 decades ago.

As for the headers, I admit I fell in love with them even before deciding where to use them ?

I've ordered several (cast) resin header sets as well, based mostly on looks too, but haven't needed any yet. I could be wrong, but they look like they'll fit a number of different vehicles, because they appear to closely hug the engine block, verses sticking out away from the engine.

 

Posted

Hello,

This is the only hobby I know where you spend considerable efforts to "downgrade" something.
The model comes with bucket seats and center console. Very upscale trim level.  But I'm going for the "sleeper" look.  I want my car to look like a base model, as cheap initially as possible because I wanted to tinker with it to go street racing. That is the essence of a muscle car.  
Not sure if the base bench seat was available in the 2 door coupes, but here is the story in pictures of how a second rear seat became a front 50/50 split base bench seat. By the way, there are like 2 weeks of work here because I have been (and still am) very busy at work. Very minimal workbench time.

Start with a spare rear seat.
2v2Z36q4yxJ21ND.jpg


Let Rusty Trusty go to town. Rusty Trusty is my decades old little hacksaw.
2v2Z36qTNxJ21ND.jpg


Add sheet styrene bits for the basic shape.
2v2Z36qSrxJ21ND.jpg


Go to town with putty.
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Shape and repeat about 5 million times.
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Primer to check progress, then a few million more cycles of putty. Round all hard edges to avoid the "blocky" look and give the illusion of cushion. Refrain from making the center seam perfectly symmetrical for the same reason.
2v2Z3CTzrxJ21ND.jpg


TA-DAH!!! A base model split bench seat.
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Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 3
Posted

Hello,

Safety! It is all about safety!  Not that masking tape seatbelts and styrene buckles would be of much help... :)

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Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted

Thanks!  

For some reason I can't react/like to comments on this forum.  I've tried different devices and different browsers but I simply don't have the option.

Posted

Hello,

OK boys, time to shift gears and floor it!

Wire, a tiny craft ball and superglue.
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Alum tape square plus 4 styrene squares of different sizes.
2v2ZvwfpzxJ21ND.jpg

Glue, paint and you got yourself a period correct floor shifter!
Ohh you want to see the rest of the interior?
Notice the driver's seat is a bit more weathered than the passenger seat and the rear seats are pristine.  Tells the story of usage.
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Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 3
Posted

Hello,

Dash pretty much done.  Instrument needles are painted wire.  
Yes, there is a key in the ignition and another key in the keychain.  Prototypically correct for Chevrolets of the era. Square key for ignition, round key for door locks.
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Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 5
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello,

Shaved door handles in process.
2v2eNtuWJxJ21ND.jpg

Added styrene strips to the sides of the hood to tighten the gaps.
2v2eNSBZNxJ21ND.jpg

2v2eNSBQrxJ21ND.jpg


2v2eNSBbjxJ21ND.jpg


2v2eNqmb5xJ21ND.jpg

HUH?
2v2eNqm1rxJ21ND.jpg

Ohhh, going for a more sleeper look you sneaky.  Only the sharpest eyes will note this is NOT a base Impala hood.
2v2eNqmc8xJ21ND.jpg
 

Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 1

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