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Posted

Does anyone know what Testors or Tamiya spray paint might be closest to Chevrolet Fathom Green & Midnight Green?  I'm thinking of doing a 1969 Camaro Z/28 RS like this, or maybe the 1968 Chevelle SS396, or maybe both!

Thanks.

Posted

Testors used to produce that color in their Model Master Lacquer line, but that's now out of production. I realize that doesn't help you. I'm not aware of an equivalent color in the Tamiya spray paint line, perhaps British Racing Green. I don't think that color is dark enough though since Fathom Green is very dark, almost black under certain lighting conditions, and has an underlying gold metallic content. You can try hunting around on Amazon or Ebay, but most likely you'd have to obtain an actual automotive lacquer spray. If you were lucky enough to find new old stock from Testors, by this point, the can and contents would be highly suspect.

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Posted

Thanks,David. I was kind of suspecting that I'd have to go automotive lacquer. I'll have to hunt around. Guess we have Rust-oleum for canceling the Testors Model Masters line.

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Posted
56 minutes ago, Jim B said:

That's great, but I don't have an airbrush.

I have tried 1402E Chrysler Engine Blue Enamel MCW Finishes (brush painting, mind you), and I was less that pleased with the coverage.

I admit that I'm a rattle can feller 99% of the time - however , I do have a Preval [sp?] rig for the purpose of spraying MCW type paints ( I have a bottle of their Chrysler Citron Yella  [ Dodge ] / Curious Yellow [ Plymouth ] , code GY3 , slated for a couple of 1971 - GY3 was a 1971-only colour -builds coming up.)

Posted
11 hours ago, Jim B said:

Thanks,David. I was kind of suspecting that I'd have to go automotive lacquer. I'll have to hunt around. Guess we have Rust-oleum for canceling the Testors Model Masters line.

A quick search online will get you the Duplicolor..  One place I saw listing your lighter green was Autozone. But the only thing with this route is often the metallic flakes are out of scale, making the finish appear metal flake in 1/25th. Just sayin.

Posted
2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

A quick search online will get you the Duplicolor..  One place I saw listing your lighter green was Autozone. But the only thing with this route is often the metallic flakes are out of scale, making the finish appear metal flake in 1/25th. Just sayin.

That is a concern with using metallic automotive paint.  

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Posted
13 hours ago, Jim B said:

That's great, but I don't have an airbrush.

I have tried 1402E Chrysler Engine Blue Enamel MCW Finishes (brush painting, mind you), and I was less that pleased with the coverage.

Jim, could you post some of your cars that you have hand painted? I have had this idea rattling around my brain for a while. Brush paint a car just like I did in the 60's

Thanks 

Mike

Posted (edited)

So basically you're looking for any dark metallic green, 'cause short of spending $30.00 on a custom filled rattle can at an automotive paint store, you're probably not going to get too close to the actual color anyway.

That said, Duplicolor offers a number of dark greens.

Other than that, good luck.

 

This is wholly the reason why I bought my first airbrush.

I got tired of fumbling around in the dark trying to find something relatively close to the colors that I was looking for, only to have to settle for some stinker that some company decided to put in a spray can.

Now it's just a simple operation of choosing whatever color that I can dream of, ordering it, and away we go.

 

 

image.jpeg.b14224711aa90347a2d4f5a7dce0454d.jpeg

 

 

 

Steve

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Posted
1 hour ago, Mike 1017 said:

Jim, could you post some of your cars that you have hand painted? I have had this idea rattling around my brain for a while. Brush paint a car just like I did in the 60's

Thanks 

Mike

Mike,

I've never hand painted car bodies, just parts.  The part I used the MCW Finishes Chrysler Blue on was the engine for my 1978 Dodge D100:image.thumb.jpeg.ace504946147c4c5cddad63f11684918.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.eadaf14312fdbac8119cad36338efd68.jpeg

Didn't come out too bad in the end, but getting it there was a real struggle.  Paint just didn't want to cover.  Probably because it's designed to be airbrushed.

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

So basically you're looking for any dark metallic green, 'cause short of spending $30.00 on a custom filled rattle can at an automotive paint store, you're probably not going to get too close to the actual color anyway.

That said, Duplicolor offers a number of dark greens.

Other than that, good luck.

 

This is wholly the reason why I bought my first airbrush.

I got tired of fumbling around in the dark trying to find something relatively close to the colors that I was looking for, only to have to settle for some stinker that some company decided to put in a spray can.

Now it's just a simple operation of choosing whatever color that I can dream of, ordering it, and away we go.

Steve

 

Steve,

I have been considering purchasing an airbrush & paint booth for quite a while now.  I should probably just "bite the bullet" and get them.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Jim B said:

Mike,

I've never hand painted car bodies, just parts.  The part I used the MCW Finishes Chrysler Blue on was the engine for my 1978 Dodge D100:image.thumb.jpeg.ace504946147c4c5cddad63f11684918.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.eadaf14312fdbac8119cad36338efd68.jpeg

Didn't come out too bad in the end, but getting it there was a real struggle.  Paint just didn't want to cover.  Probably because it's designed to be airbrushed.

Steve,

I have been considering purchasing an airbrush & paint booth for quite a while now.  I should probably just "bite the bullet" and get them.

Well, if you’re satisfied with what paint you can find in a spray can, I suppose an airbrush isn’t necessary.

I just got really sick of having to let a spray paint manufacturer make my decisions for me.

One of my favorite parts of a project is combing through paint chip sheets and picking a color that “I” want to use, and now that I know that I can choose any color that I can imagine, the hobby has become a LOT more fun!

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, Jim B said:

Mike,

I've never hand painted car bodies, just parts.  The part I used the MCW Finishes Chrysler Blue on was the engine for my 1978 Dodge D100:image.thumb.jpeg.ace504946147c4c5cddad63f11684918.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.eadaf14312fdbac8119cad36338efd68.jpeg

Didn't come out too bad in the end, but getting it there was a real struggle.  Paint just didn't want to cover.  Probably because it's designed to be airbrushed.

Steve,

I have been considering purchasing an airbrush & paint booth for quite a while now.  I should probably just "bite the bullet" and get them.

Ultimately, it seems that's the conclusion most of us get around too. In my case it was 1975, after 15 or so years of rattle cans.

Posted
5 hours ago, Jim B said:

I have been considering purchasing an airbrush & paint booth for quite a while now.  I should probably just "bite the bullet" and get them.

Absolutely!? If you don’t live in a condo or apartment an airbrush is one of the biggest step ups you can take.

  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

Absolutely!? If you don’t live in a condo or apartment an airbrush is one of the biggest step ups you can take.

In all honesty, an airbrush can be a lot less “intrusive” than spray cans can.

Depending on your air delivery system, an airbrush can ultimately pump a lot less fumes into the air than an airbrush.

It just requires a little more thought and planning.

 

 

 

Steve

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

In all honesty, an airbrush can be a lot less “intrusive” than spray cans can.

Depending on your air delivery system, an airbrush can ultimately pump a lot less fumes into the air than an airbrush.

It just requires a little more thought and planning.

 

 

 

Steve

Yes, but assuming you can find the color you want, you can step outside with a spray can, spray your parts and go back inside.

Edited by NOBLNG
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Posted

I've trimmed back my process using lacquers to where I just spray even a body into a kitchen sized trash can with a liner in it. There is no obvious over spray into the room of any significance. And any lingering fumes are gone in 10 minutes using LP lacquer. It's a bit different with acrylic because the pressure is higher, there is a slight sign of over spray around the can. Enamels I generally use the booth or go outside, because those I spray up near 30psi to get the kind of finish I learned to get over decades of use. But everything goes into a dehydrator to dry. I just close up the liner to the trash barrel after. I use an approved mask for any blow back mostly. Ten minutes after the paint session you wouldn't know I did it.

Now I did some spray can paint in my upstairs bathroom yesterday with Zinzzer Bulls Eye, getting ready to paint the celing. It needed some stain blocked first. With a window wide wide open and fan going , two hours later it had enough smell that when my wife walked in the house an hour or more later, she could smell it. Plus over spray settled on things, including my old geans I was wearing. That's the difference between spray can and airbrush, if you have your airbrush system nailed down. I rarely use my booth with the airbrush. It's easier for me to grab the can and mask. Heck this spring I even shot enamel into my trusty can ( the wife was out for a rehearsal with the church trio she formed). But same thing, close up the liner, pop the model in the dehydrator and no fumes within a few minutes. Plus it was Testors enamel which isn't the strongest smelling stuff I've used. The paint came out beautiful.

With the trash can, I use whatever object will fit up inside the body with a loop of double sided tape on the end. I hand hold the body to whatever position I want, where I always shoot downward onto the surface. In this way you get the best flow out on the surface, and over spray shoots into the can liner. 18psi vs nearly 30 for enamel makes a big difference. And airbrush nozzles are way lower volume than spray cans. Spray cans indoors to me are impossible. I spray art work all the time, or when I don't brush varnish anyway, and do that outdoors. But yesterday would have been tough to move the bathroom ceiling outdoors lol ! But it was quick and done with. Just aired out the rest of the day.

If you made it this far, just praise God, always worthy of praise !

Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Well, if you’re satisfied with what paint you can find in a spray can, I suppose an airbrush isn’t necessary.

I just got really sick of having to let a spray paint manufacturer make my decisions for me.

One of my favorite parts of a project is combing through paint chip sheets and picking a color that “I” want to use, and now that I know that I can choose any color that I can imagine, the hobby has become a LOT more fun!

 

 

 

 

Steve

I'm the opposite.  I used to use airbrushes, including Scalefinishes.  I only build about a couple of models per year, as I have other hobbies, and commitments, etc and I don't build in the summer because that's outdoor time.  Of the models I build, sometimes it's european cars, muscle cars, star wars ships, superheros, motorcyles, etc.  I got tired of having to setup the airbrush, cleaning it, etc, when I found that Tamiya spray cans gave me almost the exact same finish in the fraction of the time.  I got tired of buying 1 colour from scalefinishes and with shipping would cost close to $45 (i'm in canada) for a colour I would use only once.

I could find most colours I needed from Tamiya spray cans.  If not exact, then close enough for my liking.  Sure, there are some unique colours that you can't find a close match for, mostly muscle car colours like plum crazy or a metallic teal, etc, but for the most part I can make do.  

I have a spray booth in the basement, and Tamiya spray cans are just so forgiving and easy to use.  

Spray cans made the hobby more fun for me to be honest.  

Edited by bluenote
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Posted
2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Spray cans are easy, that's true enough.

That is true.

It’s one of the very few advantages that they have over an airbrush.

But, when it comes to my desire to do the very best with my builds that I possibly can, the main advantages of a spray can, (ie easy, quantity and price) hold very little weight with me.

Just my opinion.

 

 

 

 

Steve

  • Like 1
Posted

I do like using spray cans, and I'm getting the hang of using Tamiya cans, although I do find that they stink to high heavens when used.  Must be the lacquer.  Tamiya does have a good selection of paints in the TS & AS lines, and as a large corporation can invest in producing spray cans.  True, you won't get every color under the rainbow, but there are quite a few.  Other manufacturers (MCW, Mig, ICM, etc.) either don't have the finances, the desire, or both to produce spray cans.

The biggest drawback (for me anyway) of an airbrush is the set-up, cleaning & maintenance.  I'm essentially lazy, and I know I won't take the time to set it up every time I need to use it, and then clean it out completely when I need to change colors.  It seems to me that a lot more planning on what has to be panted when has to go into using an airbrush.  Don't get me wrong, I've seen some amazing things done with an airbrush, and I think they're great tools; but I have my doubts that I would use it as much as I should if I purchased one.  I would like a spray booth, though.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

That is true.

It’s one of the very few advantages that they have over an airbrush.

But, when it comes to my desire to do the very best with my builds that I possibly can, the main advantages of a spray can, (ie easy, quantity and price) hold very little weight with me.

Just my opinion.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Not to mention the wasted paint with spray cans. Clouds of paint goes off into the air.

Posted
1 minute ago, Dave G. said:

Not to mention the wasted paint with spray cans. Clouds of paint goes off into the air.

Paint does seem to go all over the place with spray cans.  Especially if you're using Rust-oleum (assuming you can get it to work) or Krylon.

Posted
1 minute ago, Jim B said:

Paint does seem to go all over the place with spray cans.  Especially if you're using Rust-oleum (assuming you can get it to work) or Krylon.

Rustoleum 2X I use straight from the can for lawn furniture. It's gone in one session. But I have decanted certain colors, added a bit of lacquer thinner and airbrushed it. It comes out as nice as Testors enamels do.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jim B said:

I do like using spray cans, and I'm getting the hang of using Tamiya cans, although I do find that they stink to high heavens when used.  Must be the lacquer.  Tamiya does have a good selection of paints in the TS & AS lines, and as a large corporation can invest in producing spray cans.  True, you won't get every color under the rainbow, but there are quite a few.  Other manufacturers (MCW, Mig, ICM, etc.) either don't have the finances, the desire, or both to produce spray cans.

The biggest drawback (for me anyway) of an airbrush is the set-up, cleaning & maintenance.  I'm essentially lazy, and I know I won't take the time to set it up every time I need to use it, and then clean it out completely when I need to change colors.  It seems to me that a lot more planning on what has to be panted when has to go into using an airbrush.  Don't get me wrong, I've seen some amazing things done with an airbrush, and I think they're great tools; but I have my doubts that I would use it as much as I should if I purchased one.  I would like a spray booth, though.

Not to nit-pick, but I personally could never understand the airbrush “set up” thing.  
I suppose if you don’t have a particular designated work space that it could be a little bit of an issue, but if you have any sort of semblance of a shop, set up is virtually nonexistent. 
I have 2 airbrushes.

Both of them remain attached to the hoses at all times, except for thorough cleaning sessions.

One of the airbrushes is a single action siphon feed that is attached to a small hobby compressor which is plugged into a switched outlet, so set up consists of attaching the filled jar to the brush, and flipping the switch.

The other brush is a little more complicated.

That one requires me to fill the tank on a pancake compressor in the garage and then carry it down to my shop, (this eliminates the noise of the compressor in the house) attach the hose to the compressor, fill the cup, and spray.  
I keep both brushes adjusted and ready to spray and can be spraying paint in a matter of minutes.

Clean up usually consists of filling the jar or cup with lacquer thinner and running it through, which takes little longer than inverting and cleaning a spray can nozzle.

Occasional deeper cleaning is usually a simple tip and needle removal and clean with lacquer thinner, Q-tips and the little dental brushes used for between teeth cleaning.

Certainly, it’s a little more involved than a spray can, but I certainly don’t understand why people find it particularly cumbersome.

 

 

 

Steve

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