'66 Chevy Fleetside Pickup - Revell

[70 Sting]

I recently built the 1960 Fleetside and hated every minute of it. I chose a similar colour scheme as yours. 
Keep up the battle as it looks like you’ll have a nice model when complete. ?

[CA Whitecloud]

So some wet sanding and I'm here.

I wanted to "freshen" the clear coat on the hood, so I brushed on some Future. Unfortunately, my desk fan was on, and it dried the clear coat too fast, resulting in brush strokes. So, I wet sanded the hood and now it's very smooth to the touch. My question is: If I spray the clear coat on this time, will the color be fine and show evenly? Or, do I need to sand all the shiny bits away? Or, do I need a fresh color coat? Any advice is appreciated. I've spent too long on this kit, and it's starting to show. Do you guys ever get burned out on a build? I really don't have the resources or the motivation to save this one and start another. So, onward!

Edited October 13, 2024 by CA Whitecloud

[CA Whitecloud]

11 hours ago, 70 Sting said:

I recently built the 1960 Fleetside and hated every minute of it. I chose a similar colour scheme as yours. 
Keep up the battle as it looks like you’ll have a nice model when complete. ?

Thanks, I needed that.

[CA Whitecloud]

Test fit looks good. Of course some final fiddling at glue time will be needed. She's riding high in front.

The tail end looks cool. Even though I accidentally threw away the clear lenses for the backup lights so I filled in with Mod Podge.

[CA Whitecloud]

I did not like the big gap in the firewall and I was past using putty. So I faked a seal with rubber paint. I like it.

I thought that was clever ?

[DJMar]

30 minutes ago, CA Whitecloud said:

I wanted to "freshen" the clear coat on the hood, so I brushed on some Future. Unfortunately, my desk fan was on, and it dried the clear coat too fast, resulting in brush strokes. So, I wet sanded the hood and now it's very smooth to the touch. My question is: If I spray the clear coat on this time, will the color be fine and show evenly? Or, do I need to sand all the shiny bits away? Or, do I need a fresh color coat? Any advice is appreciated. I've spent too long on this kit, and it's starting to show. Do you guys ever get burned out on a build? I really don't have the resources or the motivation to save this one and start another. So, onward!

What clear did you use the first time? Is the Future just a top coat over a different clear? What clear were you planning to use over the Future?

Also, I get burned out on builds a lot, which is one reason why it takes a mighty big push for me to get a kit done. I work on 4 or 5 things at a time, a little here, a little there.

[STU111]

G’day Calvin. I can’t offer any thoughts on your clear coat issue as I have no experience with future. I usually have 2-3 builds on the go at once as yes, you can get bogged down on one and it’s good to put it aside for a while and continue with another project, but push on with the truck, it’s looking good so far. I just finished this kit myself ( got pics posted on the forum ), and I can tell you that the interior tub is a tight fit and may need to be held with tape while the glue dries and the windshield is fiddly to get in place, but wasn’t too bad apart from that. Good save on the “rubber seal” on the firewall gap.??

[CA Whitecloud]

18 hours ago, DJMar said:

What clear did you use the first time? Is the Future just a top coat over a different clear? What clear were you planning to use over the Future?

Also, I get burned out on builds a lot, which is one reason why it takes a mighty big push for me to get a kit done. I work on 4 or 5 things at a time, a little here, a little there.

I used Tamiya clear first. I was hoping the Future would self level enough to just polish after. I decided to put down another color coat and move on.

[DJMar]

4 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said:

I used Tamiya clear first. I was hoping the Future would self level enough to just polish after. I decided to put down another color coat and move on.

I was going to suggest using alcohol to remove the Future, but that wouldn't work with the Tamiya underneath.

[ewetwo]

You can clean the Future off with most dishwashing detergent or Totally Awesome. Just stand away when spraying the Totally Awesome because it's fumes are harsh.

[CA Whitecloud]

11 hours ago, DJMar said:

I was going to suggest using alcohol to remove the Future, but that wouldn't work with the Tamiya underneath.

So, was a mistake to put the Future on top of the Tamiya? I have X-22 in the bottle but I did not know if I could brush that on. I'm still working my way up to the airbrush world.

[CA Whitecloud]

Hood of Horrors!

Well that did not go as planned. I can't strip it because I've done the marker lights up front. Will a thick gloss coat cover any of this? I don't even remember why I was trying to "fix" the hood in the first place. 

[DJMar]

59 minutes ago, CA Whitecloud said:

So, was a mistake to put the Future on top of the Tamiya? I have X-22 in the bottle but I did not know if I could brush that on. I'm still working my way up to the airbrush world.

Not necessarily a mistake, but you can't use alcohol to strip the Future without ruining the Tamiya clear underneath. Alcohol is a solvent for both.

If you had used, for example, an enamel clear under the Future, you might have been able to strip the Future with alcohol without disturbing the clearcoat. That's what I was getting at, asking if there was a way to strip off the Future without ruining your clear layer.

As for the hood, I don't believe any additional coats - paint or clear - are going to make things better. Personally, I would strip the hood and start over. I know the marker lights are already in place, but if can't remove them, you can probably salvage them with some judicious masking. I would use tape and multiple coats of a liquid masking agent and then use oven cleaner to strip the paint. You could probably also mask off the entire face of the hood (the piece that contains the marker lights) and strip the top and sides, and then repaint.

This is one of those "sometimes you're the bug, sometimes you're the windshield" moments in modeling. I feel for you, I have a Willys that I've been working on for a while now that I've had to strip twice. It's frustrating.

[CA Whitecloud]

2 minutes ago, DJMar said:

Not necessarily a mistake, but you can't use alcohol to strip the Future without ruining the Tamiya clear underneath. Alcohol is a solvent for both.

If you had used, for example, an enamel clear under the Future, you might have been able to strip the Future with alcohol without disturbing the clearcoat. That's what I was getting at, asking if there was a way to strip off the Future without ruining your clear layer.

As for the hood, I don't believe any additional coats - paint or clear - are going to make things better. Personally, I would strip the hood and start over. I know the marker lights are already in place, but if can't remove them, you can probably salvage them with some judicious masking. I would use tape and multiple coats of a liquid masking agent and then use oven cleaner to strip the paint. You could probably also mask off the entire face of the hood (the piece that contains the marker lights) and strip the top and sides, and then repaint.

This is one of those "sometimes you're the bug, sometimes you're the windshield" moments in modeling. I feel for you, I have a Willys that I've been working on for a while now that I've had to strip twice. It's frustrating.

Thanks for the encouragement. I wouldn't mind redoing the marker lights, but they don't have lenses just the amber decals. Hmmm.

[DJMar]

13 minutes ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Thanks for the encouragement. I wouldn't mind redoing the marker lights, but they don't have lenses just the amber decals. Hmmm.

Small decals like those can be soaked off and reused if they're relatively freshly applied and aren't cleared over. If you have a coat or two of clear on them, I would think that liquid mask would work to shield them from the stripping procedure, as long as you weren't going to soak the hood in a vat of Purple Power. I would use oven cleaner, sprayed out and then brushed on, to get rid of most of the paint.

Masking off the front face of the hood looks like another option. You might have a small paint ridge afterwards, but there's a panel line there on the real trucks anyway. That way, you can salvage your chrome trim as well.

STS Decals also offers this set of red & amber trailer light decals. They are a little big bigger than the kit decals but could probably work if trimmed down a bit: https://stsdecals.com/products/headlight-for-bronco-water-slide-decals?_pos=2&_sid=4c5fae244&_ss=r

 

[CA Whitecloud]

37 minutes ago, DJMar said:

Small decals like those can be soaked off and reused if they're relatively freshly applied and aren't cleared over. If you have a coat or two of clear on them, I would think that liquid mask would work to shield them from the stripping procedure, as long as you weren't going to soak the hood in a vat of Purple Power. I would use oven cleaner, sprayed out and then brushed on, to get rid of most of the paint.

Masking off the front face of the hood looks like another option. You might have a small paint ridge afterwards, but there's a panel line there on the real trucks anyway. That way, you can salvage your chrome trim as well.

STS Decals also offers this set of red & amber trailer light decals. They are a little big bigger than the kit decals but could probably work if trimmed down a bit: https://stsdecals.com/products/headlight-for-bronco-water-slide-decals?_pos=2&_sid=4c5fae244&_ss=r

 

Thanks for all that help. I will definitely take one of those routes. I'm going to concentrate on completing the rest of the build and come back to the hood. I do NOT want to dwell on it to the point it's not fun.

[STU111]

G’day Calvin. If you do strip the hood, another way of dealing with the turn signal lights is to use Tamiya clear orange x26. I used this on my build of this kit instead of the kit decals. Hope this helps. 

 

Edited October 14, 2024 by STU111

[CA Whitecloud]

I put a heavy coat of clear on the hood, and the results are good enough for me and my shelf.

 

Of coarse it all depends on how you look at it.

[CA Whitecloud]

I really tried to get the Chevy to show on the hubs, but I couldn't get the detail to come out. I also forgot to put a divot in the end of the tailpipe. What a rookie mistake!

[CA Whitecloud]

Going to try hoses and battery cables for the first time. ?

[CA Whitecloud]

1 minute ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Going to try hoses and battery cables for the first time. ?

*What would I use the oval PE bits at the bottom of the sheet?

[gman]

They are likely intended to replicate the caps on groups of cells on older (non-sealed) type batteries- the caps you pry up to check electrolyte levels or test with a hydrometer on flooded lead acid style batteries.

 

[CA Whitecloud]

8 hours ago, gman said:

They are likely intended to replicate the caps on groups of cells on older (non-sealed) type batteries- the caps you pry up to check electrolyte levels or test with a hydrometer on flooded lead acid style batteries.

 

OK, good to know. Thanks.

[thatz4u]

lost the instructions for mine....built it anyhow...?

[CA Whitecloud]

Moving on.

I like the blanket decal that comes with the kit. It adds a splash of color. But I wondered how it would look when applied to the seat that has prominent detailing, eh. So I thought leave it on the paper and make it look folded.

I worked it too much, but was going to go with it. Then I happened across some fun details.

It's too late to redo the tail lights. I'm glad to find those roof pillar accents. I wish I would have found the steering wheel detail earlier. I'll probably pass on that one. I need a tutorial on painting PE parts. I can't get the side badges to take the paint. I may try one more time, then it's the kit badges.