1957 Ford Del Rio "Shooting Brake" Ranch Wagon

[LennyB]

This is a project that has been fermenting in the back of the work bench for a while. I have not yet fleshed out all the ideas for this one, and as I will be away from the work bench for about a week to drive out to a wedding next weekend, I thought I would post it in the hopes of getting some feedback on ideas.

The inspiration for this build is a car build by Pure Vision Design https://purevisiondesign.com/rides/projects/shooting-brake.html

It was also featured on an episode of the  Motor Trend TV show "Hand Built Hot Rods". Which I had seen a few years back and recently stumbled upon again.

https://www.motortrend.com/news/executives-ranch-wagon-pure-visions-thumper-1957-ford-ranch-wagon-arp-bolts/

 

This is NOT going to be an exact replica as there are things I like about the build and things I don't. For starters I don't care for the wheels. What I do like and what peaked my interest in the first place is the way they changed the 'B' pillar and lengthened the doors. And I just love the color.

The choice of a starter kit is obvious. Revell's '57 Ford Del Rio. If the box looks a bit beat up it's because that's what you get when you buy off Amazon. They pack kits in a plastic bag for shipping.

So what I definitely want to retain is the body mods, the color and the 429 engine. Not sure what do do about the suspension. Don't really want to keep it stock and I'm not sure what I can steal from other kits to make it better. And the wheels have to go. Think it needs a modern wheel but something that is more retro.

My first quandary that has held me back from starting this is the body mods. They might seem simple but the more I look at them the more complicated they get.  For starters Pure Vision (PV moving forward) extended the rear fin to above the door handle. You can see on the kit body it stops by the yellow arrow.

At first I thought I would take a second body and do a little slice and dice to move the molding back. But as I also have to extend the fin forward. ? So Slice and dice would get really complicated. What PV did is they raised the front section of the fin and extended it. If you look closely at their rendering you can see the fin maintains an even trajectory and doesn't dip down until it passes over the door handle. The factory fin dips down much sooner. A cool touch and I feel necessary to duplicate. So even a slice and dice won't fix that. Have to scratch build the front of the fin and blend it in. Whew?

And slice and dice doesn't work so well for the molding due to the curvature. The bend in the molding now needs to be back at the green arrow. I could cut out the area marked by the red box and cut a section from the second body with the molding shifted to the left side of the box. But that still makes the top of the "L" too short. Am I making sense? So I'm thinking about leaving the original molding up to the NEW rear edge of the door and then creating the rear section of the molding with plastruct. Still not simple as the lower molding is actually concave. Should keep it concave for accuracy, or do I just throw accuracy out the window? I'm giving myself a headache just thinking about this.

 

So, for now I'm open to ideas as to how to handle the body mods and everything else. Thanks ?

[stitchdup]

If i was doing this i'd probably leave the trim and just fill the door gaps as the trim itself looks pretty close and may be correct once the door is stretched. But the top fin i would replace from front to back just to make it one piece and it would allow it to be shaped off the car which would be simpler initially.

[LennyB]

1 hour ago, stitchdup said:

If i was doing this i'd probably leave the trim and just fill the door gaps as the trim itself looks pretty close and may be correct once the door is stretched. But the top fin i would replace from front to back just to make it one piece and it would allow it to be shaped off the car which would be simpler initially.

Les, If the trim is left in the same place the back edge of the door falls right in front of the bend in the “L”.  Although you might be right about making the fin from scratch.

Edited September 29, 2024 by LennyB

[espo]

I'll be looking forward to your build when you get back to this. I might offer a couple of things to consider accomplishing your body modifications. Consider using plastic stock to create the extension of the tail fins if you still want to do that. This way you wouldn't even have to touch the body side moldings, and you can shape the fins the way you want them. Widening the doors would have you redoing some or even all of the body side moldings. The kits rear door edge could be filled and a new door opening line cut into the existing molding as one way to do that. The reshaping of the B pillar could be done by cutting away the forward portion of the pillar and run it parallel to the exciting back edge, but there is the door handle that you would have to replace. As for the engine, if you don't have a good-looking Ford Cammer engine from another kit think about a 3D printed one as there are a few good ones available. As to the suspension changes, the Revell '57 Ford kit has little room for wider tires than stock with the kit's inner fenders. While the wagon kit is actually better than the coupe it is still tight unless you reshape the inner fenders. Depending on how much you're wanting to do on the chassis as the prototype has an aftermarket chassis you may be looking at a 3D printed chassis as well. While costly, at least some excellent aftermarket 3D chassis and engines would make this easier to do. 

[LennyB]

Thanks guys, appreciate all your input. And I appreciate that you're trying to save me some work. Maybe It's just me but I don't think it looks right unless the molding is moved back. It's kind of a balance of proportions. I'm no graphic artist but did two quick renderings of how it looks if I leave the molding alone and if I move it back. It's not bad if left alone, it just looks better moved back to me.

[Steve H]

Hmmmmm….  Very interesting.  At a quick glance, and with full disclosure that I like to look for an easy way, here’s my thought. Could you split the difference by removing a section (by eye, maybe 4 scale inches) from just ahead of the rear wheel opening. Then move the rear door line back about half the distance from where it is, to where the trim jogs upward? (Looks like maybe 3 scale inches?). The downside would be that the vehicle is then 4” shorter, which might be a hard no for you, this would also result in chassis mods/shorter wheelbase. However, it might make it look sportier?! The bonus would be minimal trim reworking… As for the upper tail fin extension, I think it’s styrene, sand, fill, prime , sand, fill, prime… Just my initial thoughts.

[Maindrian Pace]

Pure Vision used '57 Thunderbird fin tips and door handles. I like this car too, and have thought about building one. I love their idea of lengthening the doors to allow for a natural slant to the B pillar, which is the one thing on this car that has always stood out as just not being quite right.

[Russell C]

2 hours ago, Steve H said:

... removing a section from just ahead of the rear wheel opening. Then move the rear door line back about half the distance from where it is, to where the trim jogs upward? ...

Now that you mention that, I wondered about it myself, and from the fun I have altering photos, I wanted to see it instead of just trying to visualize it. Dunno, with the back edge of the door farther back, it might necessitate moving the B pillar back to meet the vertical line, and make the window opening a bit too wide?

[dino246gt]

In that latest picture, it has the proportions of an SUV, Bronco-ish.

What I was dreaming about is the '56 Crown Vic chrome halo with the glass roof added.

I love your thought process on customization though, all very cool!

 

[LennyB]

14 hours ago, Steve H said:

Hmmmmm….  Very interesting.  At a quick glance, and with full disclosure that I like to look for an easy way, here’s my thought. Could you split the difference by removing a section (by eye, maybe 4 scale inches) from just ahead of the rear wheel opening. Then move the rear door line back about half the distance from where it is, to where the trim jogs upward? (Looks like maybe 3 scale inches?). The downside would be that the vehicle is then 4” shorter, which might be a hard no for you, this would also result in chassis mods/shorter wheelbase. However, it might make it look sportier?! The bonus would be minimal trim reworking… As for the upper tail fin extension, I think it’s styrene, sand, fill, prime , sand, fill, prime… Just my initial thoughts.

Interesting thought, but creates a problem. The top curve of the molding would be an issue as you would intersect the curve by removing the piece you mention. Unless you do a stepped cut.

PV has the molding following the curve of the wheel opening which requires the curve to be shifted to the rear over the wheel opening.  And of course we then have to compensate for the missing 4" throughout the rest of the vehicle.

11 hours ago, Maindrian Pace said:

Pure Vision used '57 Thunderbird fin tips and door handles. I like this car too, and have thought about building one. I love their idea of lengthening the doors to allow for a natural slant to the B pillar, which is the one thing on this car that has always stood out as just not being quite right.

That's good to know, I hadn't seen that. I knew they took the scoop from a T-Bird. Might have to do a graft from a T-Bird. Mmmm.

11 hours ago, Russell C said:

Now that you mention that, I wondered about it myself, and from the fun I have altering photos, I wanted to see it instead of just trying to visualize it. Dunno, with the back edge of the door farther back, it might necessitate moving the B pillar back to meet the vertical line, and make the window opening a bit too wide?

Now that does makes the door looks huge.

Another thought I had was just leave the rear edge of the door where it is and the molding as well. Then just move the B pillar forward.

2 hours ago, dino246gt said:

In that latest picture, it has the proportions of an SUV, Bronco-ish.

What I was dreaming about is the '56 Crown Vic chrome halo with the glass roof added.

I love your thought process on customization though, all very cool!

 

It does at that. I have seen pics of other wagons with different trim levels and the moldings are completely different. One style reminded me of the Crown Vic.

 

[Moparman18064]

Here is my thought on the moldings. Using fine line tape, extend the bottom trim line to the point you want to intersect with the curved vertical trim. Then again using layers of tape, one against the other, following against the curved vertical trim until you get to the intersect point. This way, there are no cuts to be made, the same curve is still there, then you can use a few thin strips of styrene bent to proper shape against each other. Or, you can trace the taped out shape on to a piece of sheet styrene of the same thickness and glue that down to body. Then just shave away the unwanted old trim areas.

One thing, as you extend the trim, it will get to be too fat, as it keeps getting wider as it goes rearward. You will have to shave it to keep in proper order.

[espo]

1 hour ago, LennyB said:

Interesting thought, but creates a problem. The top curve of the molding would be an issue as you would intersect the curve by removing the piece you mention. Unless you do a stepped cut.

PV has the molding following the curve of the wheel opening which requires the curve to be shifted to the rear over the wheel opening.  And of course we then have to compensate for the missing 4" throughout the rest of the vehicle.

That's good to know, I hadn't seen that. I knew they took the scoop from a T-Bird. Might have to do a graft from a T-Bird. Mmmm.

Now that does makes the door looks huge.

Another thought I had was just leave the rear edge of the door where it is and the molding as well. Then just move the B pillar forward.

It does at that. I have seen pics of other wagons with different trim levels and the moldings are completely different. One style reminded me of the Crown Vic.

 

The lower line wagon is good looking and could be one way around the door length issue. Just a personal choice but never cared for the '58 style hood, even on '58's.  

[catpack68]

5 hours ago, dino246gt said:

In that latest picture, it has the proportions of an SUV, Bronco-ish.

What I was dreaming about is the '56 Crown Vic chrome halo with the glass roof added.

I love your thought process on customization though, all very cool!

 

Looking forward to seeing more progress on it Len.I saw a Revell 57 Del Rio model on Instagram not long ago and it had 56 Crown Vic glass roof and it was turned into a sedan delivery.I’m not sure who built it, but it looked really good! I was thinking doing the same mod to one myself.

Edited September 30, 2024 by catpack68

[LennyB]

47 minutes ago, Moparman18064 said:

Here is my thought on the moldings. Using fine line tape, extend the bottom trim line to the point you want to intersect with the curved vertical trim. Then again using layers of tape, one against the other, following against the curved vertical trim until you get to the intersect point. This way, there are no cuts to be made, the same curve is still there, then you can use a few thin strips of styrene bent to proper shape against each other. Or, you can trace the taped out shape on to a piece of sheet styrene of the same thickness and glue that down to body. Then just shave away the unwanted old trim areas.

One thing, as you extend the trim, it will get to be too fat, as it keeps getting wider as it goes rearward. You will have to shave it to keep in proper order.

The thing about the trim that makes this more difficult is that it is concave down the middle, which is hard to see in the pics. If it was just flat this would be a simple task.  I suppose I could cut a piece of flat styrene as you say and maybe carve out the center. Or just remove all the trim and start from scratch.

[Butter 1]

Here is how I am doing mine. I left the bottom portion of the door as is, and the fin as is. I slanted the B pillar of the door to match the angle of the rear window. I added a few millimeters to the rear window to line up to the slanted B pillar of the door.

[Zippi]

Nice work on the 57 Ron.  Looking good.

[LennyB]

Nice Ron, that's another way to skin the cat.

 

I  had a little bit of time when I got home tonight and did some brainstorming on an idea taken loosely from your suggestion above Rich.

 

I laid tape over the existing molding and burnished it against the body.

 

I then cut along the edge of the molding and removed the top piece of tape.

 

Then I shifted the tape over towards the rear and I have where the molding should be. I mirrored this on the other side.

Meanwhile, back at the Ranch Wagon, I noticed that the molding on the left side above the fuel filler is flawed. The concave section disappears right at the arrow and then returns just before the molding terminates. So technically I should fix this.

I think I can replicate this section of the molding by laying two round styrene rods side by side like I did on my Fairlane project.

I think I used .030 round rod on the Fairlane, need to go a bit smaller for this. And as the molding start to curve down to meet  that acute angle I will have just have to spread the two styrene rods apart slightly.

So I will need to extend the front piece of molding before the bend and blend it with the existing molding. Then from that point back I will remove the kit molding and do that from scratch.

 

OK, don't know if this makes sense to anyone else. But it gives me something to ponder until I get back from vacation.That's all I have time for now, so I'll say goodnight.?

[Butter 1]

2 hours ago, Zippi said:

Nice work on the 57 Ron.  Looking good.

Thanks Bob.  BTW. I like what you did to the 60 F100. Nice paint.

[Can-Con]

Lenny, you need to do Mike's trick from last month,,,

 

[LennyB]

10 hours ago, Can-Con said:

Lenny, you need to do Mike's trick from last month,,,

 

Thanks Steve, I hadn't seen that. That should do the trick.

[dino246gt]

Here's a thought, just a thought, maybe continue the front trim along the trajectory you have taped, but instead of it following your tape to the rear, bring it back to the existing chrome, then open up the rear wheel cut out, to match the fronts? Like I said, "just a thought"

[deuces wild]

Looks like allot of work... But that's just me.....?

[LennyB]

18 hours ago, dino246gt said:

Here's a thought, just a thought, maybe continue the front trim along the trajectory you have taped, but instead of it following your tape to the rear, bring it back to the existing chrome, then open up the rear wheel cut out, to match the fronts? Like I said, "just a thought"

Has possibilities, might allow for larger rear tires.   

[LennyB]

14 hours ago, deuces wild said:

Looks like allot of work... But that's just me.....?

Would it be any fun if it was easy?

[NOBLNG]

I think you’re on the right track with this idea Len. I would make a pattern of how you want the molding to look, and cut the new molding from .030”? styrene sheet. Carefully file or scrape away the unwanted existing portion and glue the new section in place.