ICM Model T Ford 1913 Roadster

[bill-e-boy]

That is a cool method of applying paint and the finish came out just right for a T

 

[Anglia105E]

16 minutes ago, bill-e-boy said:

That is a cool method of applying paint and the finish came out just right for a T

 

Cheers Bill, and thank you very much !

David

[David G.]

I have to say David, that paint has just the right look to it. Taking a chance on such an unusual process has worked out exceeding well, bravo!

It's nice when things work out this well.

David G.

[Anglia105E]

On 10/22/2024 at 12:25 PM, David G. said:

I have to say David, that paint has just the right look to it. Taking a chance on such an unusual process has worked out exceeding well, bravo!

It's nice when things work out this well.

David G.

Certainly it was a matter of taking a chance, and the end result relied upon the consistency of the paint, which was a brand that I have never purchased previously, also the decision to place the body parts horizontally, the unknown self levelling properties of this paint, plus the lengthy waiting for 6 days drying time. The jet black paint was applied over a coat of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Grey, which I considered to be important, rather than applying the black paint over bare plastic . . . I think the bare plastic would have caused the paint to run off more.

I can tell you the most amusing aspect of all this . . . Somehow I have achieved a high gloss black finish on a Model T Ford that I was not able to achieve on all those Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud model cars over a 7 year period of trying   !!!  How ridiculous is that ?

David W.

[Bainford]

Looking good, David. I am quite interested in your project, and in the ICM kits in general. I would like to pick up a couple of their 'T's but haven't done so yet. Nice work on the paint. Your attempt to replicate the factory process lends authenticity to your project, and I believe it shows in the result. Cheers.

[Anglia105E]

2 hours ago, Bainford said:

Looking good, David. I am quite interested in your project, and in the ICM kits in general. I would like to pick up a couple of their 'T's but haven't done so yet. Nice work on the paint. Your attempt to replicate the factory process lends authenticity to your project, and I believe it shows in the result. Cheers.

Many thanks Trevor . . . Yes, I really enjoy building these ICM kits, and I am sure that you would too. There is the Roadster version of the Model T, also the Tourer version, the Speedster, the Commercial Roadster that has the third seat at the back, the Delivery wagon, the Fire Truck and the Ambulance.

I am hoping that with all the various different shades and textures of black, the body paint finish should appear to be period correct . . .  ICM produce some really nice figures to compliment their car kits, and I am hoping that the driver figure from the Tourer will fit into my Roadster model once he's painted. The Revell version of this ICM roadster is slightly different, because the kit contains a decal sheet and the instruction sheet is in colour.

David

[slusher]

Fantastic work so far and beautiful black paint!

[Anglia105E]

36 minutes ago, slusher said:

Fantastic work so far and beautiful black paint!

Many thanks Carl . . . and glad you like the paint !

Black is difficult to apply well, and even more difficult to photograph properly . . .

David

[LennyB]

David, I think that paint looks quite authentic. The wait was time well spent.

[Anglia105E]

6 minutes ago, LennyB said:

David, I think that paint looks quite authentic. The wait was time well spent.

Kind words indeed Len . . . The process is a bit slow and and also a bit messy, but generally speaking I am happy with the finish. You can't rush a Model T.

David

[LennyB]

3 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Kind words indeed Len . . . The process is a bit slow and and also a bit messy, but generally speaking I am happy with the finish. You can't rush a Model T.

David

No, I've driven behind one on many an occasion and you just have to be patient.

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, LennyB said:

No, I've driven behind one on many an occasion and you just have to be patient.

This would have been your view of the road ahead . . .

[LennyB]

18 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

This would have been your view of the road ahead . . .

Exactly?

[Anglia105E]

Moving ahead with this Model T Ford build in small steps . . . Today was a Sunday, and the clocks have gone back one hour for the Winter, so I had one hour extra sleep . . . After drilling a small hole in the side of the carbide generator, and a corresponding hole in the driver's side running board, I thought that I was going to use a short length of plastic pipe to connect between the two. However, the plastic pipe would not bend to a nice curve as I wanted it to, so instead I have used some 1 mm solder . . . This does the job much better. I shall paint the pipe a light brown colour.

David

[David G.]

A clever solution David!

David G.

[Anglia105E]

6 hours ago, David G. said:

A clever solution David!

David G.

Speaking as someone who is not able to solder successfully, I have found other uses for the solder product !

David W.

[Anglia105E]

Today was all about applying some paint to the interior surfaces of the body panels, using Vallejo Glossy Black acrylic, and also coating the buzz box / trembler coils box with a mix of Vallejo Burnt Red and Mahogany Brown acrylic . . . This ' cherry wood ' paint colour was then used to touch up the firewall, and the frame on the firewall was painted Glossy Black to match the exterior body colour.

David

[LennyB]

3 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Today coating the buzz box 

David

 

 

 

‘Ol’ Henry did like a good buzz, especially on his camping trips with Thomas Edison?‍?

[David G.]

16 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

...the buzz box / trembler coils box...

It all sounds very Steampunk!

This is coming along quite nicely David. I may have to look into finding one of these kits.

David G.

[Anglia105E]

The various tie rods, steering arms, drop arm and bracing struts have been glued in place on the underside of the chassis. These were quite tricky parts to handle, as expected, but turned out alright in the end . . . Moving on to the wheels, these needed the dried black paint removing from between the spokes. This was carried out using a scalpel knife carefully. I found this process rather lengthy, but I reckon I have removed all of the dried paint.

Now the wheels can be test fitted onto the hubs of the front and rear axles . . . By scraping away some excess black paint, and with a little filing, the wheels should go on to the hubs and also rotate freely. There will have to be some sort of outer washer or shim to prevent the wheels from coming off the axle. Thinking ahead to the video filming stage, I want the rolling chassis to be exactly that, ' rolling ' . . .

The wheels and tyres look pretty good on this car, and all they will need is some further touching up with grey paint for the tyres and black paint for the wheel spokes . . .

David

[David G.]

Good progress on this one David.

This looks to be an easy yet engaging build.

David G.

[Anglia105E]

3 hours ago, David G. said:

Good progress on this one David.

This looks to be an easy yet engaging build.

David G.

Yes David I would say this can be described as an easy build, and if the build does take all of November to complete, it will simply be that I am taking my time and adding detail where I can . . . Certainly engaging and I am really enjoying this one . . .

David W.

[Anglia105E]

Working on the passenger side front hub, I have managed to slide the wheel all the way onto the hub itself, and also enabled the wheel to rotate.

While I was looking for a way to secure the wheel, I found a short length of red rubber tubing which was left over from the 1:16 scale Gunze Sangyo Rolls-Royce Phantom III build . . . My idea is to place the tubing tightly over the outer hub of the front axle, which will prevent the wheel from coming off the hub, while at the same time allowing the wheel to rotate freely.

The rubber tubing can be cut off at around 3 mm once the wheel is secured, and all four hubs on the front and rear axles can be dealt with using the same method . . . Once the pieces of tubing are in place they can be painted with aluminium enamel, and they should only appear to be slightly larger in diameter than the original hubs themselves.

David

[David G.]

It looks kind of funny up on blocks with a big rubber sausage coiling out from the axle.  

Using the tubing as a keeper is a great idea. How do you plan to blacken the tube segment?

David G.

[Anglia105E]

11 hours ago, David G. said:

It looks kind of funny up on blocks with a big rubber sausage coiling out from the axle.  

Using the tubing as a keeper is a great idea. How do you plan to blacken the tube segment?

David G.

Just approaching midnight here in England, so I shall be posting in more detail during tomorrow (Saturday), but I have discarded the idea of using the red rubber tubing and instead I have come up with a much more satisfactory method . . . All will be revealed in due course !

The material used actually represents the outer hub cap, and this will be painted aluminium, so not blackened . . . see photo below.

David W.