That Plasticated Guy Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 I've been having problems with taping my projects to paint them. Now, I've been using Scotch blue tape for years and never had a problem. The problem is that a thin layer of adhesive is left over when I peel it off. I've tried WD-40, Goo Gone, and Isopropyl Alcohol. All they did was ruin the paint. I've tried to stick the tape to something else like glass or an old shirt to reduce the adhesion. No luck. I soaked the body in dish soap mixed with warm water. Diddly squat. Am I doing something wrong? Is there another brand of tape that's available at Walmart? Is there an actual solution that works? I don't want to have to order tape online or anything. By the way, I use rattle cans as part of the painting process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 you could try polishing compound. i've had success with it on tamiya tapes when they leave the glue behind (though now they seem to eat into the paint) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hedotwo Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Same as Les I use a light polishing compound like Novus 2 or Tamiya Fine (or heavier depending on how much adhesive is left) on a pointed q-tip to gently polish it off. For what it's worth I use Tamiya tapes only but they aren't at walmart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Mike, since you mentioned that you have been using the Scotch blue painter's tape problem-free for years, what has changed to cause the problem? Is the blue tape different somehow? Are you using different type of paints/primer? Are you spraying the paint different way than in the past? Are you applying the tape to the painted surface before it is fully dry? That would likely cause the tape adhesive to soften and leave adhesive residue. I like Tamiya masking tape (or Washi tape) but I have used Scotch brand blue tape in the past without problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 I've had issues with hot paint leaching through the tape and causing the paint beneath to look very similar to the pic you posted. Spraying in thinner layers can help that sometimes, the solvent evaporates before it has time to penetrate the tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamsuperdan Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 I've only had one tape issue so far. Many years ago, I masked the windshield of a Tamiya BMW Z3 with Tamiya tape. The mask worked beautifully! But when I removed the tape, it somehow reacted to the windshield and left residue, which I could not remove with anything. And the windshield itself was actually damaged, with little "holes" in the plastic, almost like the tape ate into it. I still use Tamiya tape, and haven't had an issue since. But I'm always nervous when masking glass now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Plasticated Guy Posted November 27 Author Share Posted November 27 Peter, the tape is the same and I mostly use Rustoleum paint. The other brand is Testors. And occasionally Krylon. All enamels. But I think that what you and Brian said might be one reason. I'll alter my spraying technique and wait it out overnight to a few days for the paint to fully gas out. If that doesn't help then I'll try the polishing that Les and Rich suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 I'd quit using "blue" tape. I know...everybody does it, but it was never intended for solvent based paint on smooth surfaces. It's primarily a "low tack" tape made for masking walls and mouldings and woodwork in houses. Solvents in some hobby or hardware-store paints can adversely affect the adhesive, causing exactly the problem you're having. I use automotive-grade tapes on models and never have any adhesive residue. BUT...we use blue tape in the big-car shops to protect chrome and other bare metal surfaces during handling and assembly. The adhesive gets hard and crusty over time, and it can be the absolute devil to remove if it's left too long, often requiring a variety of solvents to remove the residue from bare metal. 3M green automotive masking tapes, on the other hand, usually release just fine from everything, with no adhesive transfer. 3M makes the best stretchy fine-line tapes I've ever seen, as well. Y'all can use anything you want, but after 5 decades painting real cars and models, I know what works for me. There's a reason professional car painters do not use "blue" tape for actual masking. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr moto Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Try naphtha (VM&P). Available at any hardware or home store. I've never had it harm any paint though I usually use lacquer. Guitar makers use it to clean the finishes on their work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said: It's primarily a "low tack" tape made for masking walls and mouldings and woodwork in houses. And it doesn't even work very good for that! I learned a long time ago to stay away from materials like "all purpose" tapes. Do I still use them for occasional things? Absolutely! But I never let regular hardware store masking tape touch a painted surface on any of my projects, and pretty much the same with blue painter's tape. Just as all one has to do is spend 2 minutes on any model car related Facebook group to see botched paint jobs achieved by using paints designed for painting lawn furniture, spend another 2 minutes, and you'll inevitably find screwed up messes from various masking tapes as well. I do all of my masking with Tamiya tape, masking paper, and yes, some blue painters and regular masking tape. But I am extremely diligent about how I mask, and I never allow these hardware store tapes to touch the painted surfaces of the model, and it's because of reasons such as this. I've seen it all in my 50+ years of building. Tape imprints, adhesive residue, tape pulling off paint, you name it, and I don't care to ever see any of it again, and I won't have to now that I have the experience and knowledge to know better. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 3 hours ago, mr moto said: Try naphtha (VM&P). Available at any hardware or home store. I've never had it harm any paint though I usually use lacquer. Guitar makers use it to clean the finishes on their work. I would be careful with that. Naphtha will dissolve Testors enamels and other not-fully-cured enamels. It could affect some lacquers (again, if lacquers are not fully dried). Also if left on any paint surface for longer time, it might affect (dull) them. After all it Naphaha is an organic solvent used as thinner, but a quick light touch wipe should not hurt the lacquer's surface. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalmad Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 I use Tamiya tape exclusively now after experiencing the same issues of adhesive residue left from the blue and green tapes and frog tapes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horrorshow Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Old tapes will leave residue. Are they being stored near heat? picture below is the only tape I use now. Works great, no bleed though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bills72sj Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 Thanks everyone for your input. I am about To embark on a couple of projects with two tone paint jobs. My favorite edge mask is Para-Film. Though It is not designed for large surfaces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 2 hours ago, Bills72sj said: Thanks everyone for your input. I am about To embark on a couple of projects with two tone paint jobs. My favorite edge mask is Para-Film. Though It is not designed for large surfaces. I agree about parafilm. I only started using it a few years ago, but it really does make for some clean lines! I've used it to mask paint, the same day I sprayed it. The best way I can think to describe it is excellent adhesion, low tack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave G. Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 It may not be adhesive you're dealing with, but rather tape impression in the paint film. I say that since no adhesive removers removed it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 53 minutes ago, Dave G. said: It may not be adhesive you're dealing with, but rather tape impression in the paint film. I say that since no adhesive removers removed it. That's an excellent suggestion. If so, the polishing compounds might well be effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Brown Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 I can’t help with the repairs, but I use Washi tape and Tamiya tape for masking and have never had an issue with either leaving a residue. You should be able to find Washi tape in the scrapbooking section of your local craft store or maybe even Walmart. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 5 hours ago, Dave G. said: It may not be adhesive you're dealing with, but rather tape impression in the paint film. I say that since no adhesive removers removed it. To add to this, the tape impression is due most likely to having trapped solvents that have not fully dried out, especially if a quality masking tape was used, and hardware store tapes meant for home improvement work don't count, there are far better masking tapes out there for your models, like Tamiya's or yellow Frogtape for delicate surfaces which can be bought from big box stores like Home Depot. Thinking one will save a few bucks by using cheaper masking materials isn't worth it if you have to strip/repaint, often repeatedly, the same can be said for the paints themselves. I see builders all the time comment about tape residue when the fact is there was no residue left behind, but impressions of the tape's texture from uncured paint that was masked. I learned this on my own the hard way, now it never happens anymore, and I do a lot of masking. I also learned to not leave tape on any longer than necessary, trying to remove masking tape before the accent color itself has cured, often within 10 minutes or so after shooting the accent color. Also, don't put masked parts into a dehydrator, unmask the part before using the dehydrator. Using quality hobby lacquers is cost-effective due to quick drying/curing times, so there's less chance of masked areas getting damaged from uncured solvents below the surface. Patience is key, let stuff dry the appropriate amount of time before masking. Current project (ZoomOn Toyota bB OpenDeck), a lot of masking was involved, including multiple steps on the body for the main color, roof color, gloss black areas and matte black areas. It would have been a mess if I had tried brush painting the gloss & matte black areas... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Haigwood Posted November 28 Share Posted November 28 I had this problem once and discover the letting it dry in the dehydrator it heated up the tape and left the residue. I use Lime Wire and 3M 471 for the edges and Tamiya to cover the rest. Won't find them at Walmart. Nothing with tape goes in the dehydrator. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted November 29 Share Posted November 29 Yup, it’s my guess that what the OP is experiencing is the tape’s impression in the paint, and not actual adhesive residue. Adhesive is actually quite easy to remove in a variety of ways. Letting the paint cure completely, (with enamel, that could be quite some time) and using good tapes will eliminate any issues such as this in the future. You can do some amazing things with good masking tape! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted November 29 Share Posted November 29 I use Tamiya and that’s it. I still stick it to my shirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-e-boy Posted November 29 Share Posted November 29 A few things from the above that I agree with - The issue looks like the tape adhesive burning into the tape not tape residue - And yup - keep it out of a hot environment. Put it in the dehydrator by all means but leave the heat off - Cheap aint always the best - Letting paint cure before masking helps - all about patience - Dont rush it - patience again - And Tamiya masking tape can burn into a paint job This was done recently - Testors enamel thinned with Testors reducer through air brush. Tamiya masking tape - factors that I see that caused issues are fresh paint and heat in my paint curing box (like a dehydrator). I masked the blue to paint the flat black - just a bit hard to see the manky result but it looks like orange peel and the white was where the The whole issue of masking tape affecting paint jobs is debilitating to say the least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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