hedotwo Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 (edited) Generally speaking I can never get the glossy finish on the hood, roof and trunk as I do on the sides. I airbrush the same way with the same paint under the same conditions but the upper surfaces usually have some grain showing where the sides dry very glossy. I lightly sand all surfaces the same after the color coat and then again after the clears but the difference is always there when finished. I use Tamiya polishes when all is finished and I can sometimes get the grain to fade a bit but I was just wondering if there is something I'm doing wrong. Edit.. I usually see this when using Scalefinishes base coats at 20psi w/Tamiya clear after. Edited December 13, 2024 by hedotwo
peteski Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 Sounds to me like it is your airbrushing technique. The plastic is the same on the sides as it is on the horizontal surfaces. What you describe seems that you just aren't putting heavy enough of a coat on the horizontal surfaces to get the paint to level out to a smooth surface. Or possibly just the opposite: Maybe the Scale Finishes paint is hot, and you end up using a heavier coat on the horizontal surfaces, causing the plastic to slightly craze. Just couple of guesses. . . 2
drodg Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 I have ran into the same issue. I now try to clear the roof and or top areas by turning the car to the side. I think that has helped me. 2
hedotwo Posted December 13, 2024 Author Posted December 13, 2024 5 minutes ago, peteski said: Sounds to me like it is your airbrushing technique. The plastic is the same on the sides as it is on the horizontal surfaces. What you describe seems that you just aren't putting heavy enough of a coat on the horizontal surfaces to get the paint to level out to a smooth surface. Or possibly just the opposite: Maybe the Scale Finishes paint is hot, and you end up using a heavier coat on the horizontal surfaces, causing the plastic to slightly craze. Just couple of guesses. . . I use their paints a lot and will try both putting a bit heavier on the horizontal next time. Seems I spray equally everywhere but I wouldn't be surprised if I don't. I do spray with all the surfaces held vertically (about a 90 degree angle?) Not sure if it matters but I usually spray lengthwise on the top surfaces and then if I have some striping I'll go across widthwise on the next pass. The sides seem easy that way, always just lengthwise. Thanks Pete 1
Bill Eh? Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 I am curious as to the orientation of the parts being painted, to the airbrush. Are the sides of the car perpendicular to the airbrush? Holding the body on a paint stand would result in the sides of the body getting the paint applied straight onto the surface. Holding the body the same way might result in the paint being applied on an angle. I now hold the body with the upper surface tipped toward me so that the paint hits the surface directly instead of at an angle. Sometimes small things can make big differences. Apologies if you responded to this in your just posted response. 2
hedotwo Posted December 13, 2024 Author Posted December 13, 2024 20 minutes ago, Bill Eh? said: I am curious as to the orientation of the parts being painted, to the airbrush. Are the sides of the car perpendicular to the airbrush? Holding the body on a paint stand would result in the sides of the body getting the paint applied straight onto the surface. Holding the body the same way might result in the paint being applied on an angle. I now hold the body with the upper surface tipped toward me so that the paint hits the surface directly instead of at an angle. Sometimes small things can make big differences. Apologies if you responded to this in your just posted response. That's a good point and I do actually use a good paint stand and try and spray only perpendicular to any surface. Thanks Bill 2
johnyrotten Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 I try to paint the surface as it lays on the car, if that makes sense. Your distance, pattern, travel speed and pressure will come into play, and sometimes that's just not possible possible. I have a few(4) different airbrush types/styes I experimented with till I found what worked for me. The solvent crazing is/can also be what you're seeing. 1
Kromolly Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 Depending on what you are spraying first and the direction your overspray is drafting, you may have overspray landing on those horizontal surfaces when they are partially dry. For instance, if you spray the hood/roof/trunk first and then spray the sides, the mist/overspray created when spraying the sides can travel upward and then fall and settle on those horizontal surfaces. This would typically sand or polish out fairly easily. Just another idea. I've experienced this when painting a 1:1 car. 2
hedotwo Posted December 13, 2024 Author Posted December 13, 2024 45 minutes ago, Kromolly said: Depending on what you are spraying first and the direction your overspray is drafting, you may have overspray landing on those horizontal surfaces when they are partially dry. For instance, if you spray the hood/roof/trunk first and then spray the sides, the mist/overspray created when spraying the sides can travel upward and then fall and settle on those horizontal surfaces. This would typically sand or polish out fairly easily. Just another idea. I've experienced this when painting a 1:1 car. I've never considered that explanation. I don't really always follow the same pattern each time when spraying but I'd say I usually do one side, the top surfaces, then the remaining side. This is something else I can try I guess. 1
LennyB Posted December 13, 2024 Posted December 13, 2024 I have to go along with what Roy says. On 1:1 cars I was always taught to start at the bottom and work my way up. On models I do the same. I do the sides first and then the front and rear making my way to the middle and the roof. 3 1
Steve H Posted December 14, 2024 Posted December 14, 2024 I’m not an airbrush guy, I use rattle cans. My method is similar to Lenny above 👆, but I usually do the front, then back, bottom, sides, then finish at the top. On the final clear coat, I try to work somewhat quickly to keep a wet edge. 2
Greasefinger Posted December 29, 2024 Posted December 29, 2024 On 12/13/2024 at 10:37 PM, Kromolly said: Depending on what you are spraying first and the direction your overspray is drafting, you may have overspray landing on those horizontal surfaces when they are partially dry. For instance, if you spray the hood/roof/trunk first and then spray the sides, the mist/overspray created when spraying the sides can travel upward and then fall and settle on those horizontal surfaces. This would typically sand or polish out fairly easily. Just another idea. I've experienced this when painting a 1:1 car. I was thinking the same possible explanation. But as for sanding the overspray, wouldn’t that leave scratch marks that clear coat or another colour coat wouldn’t cover?
Kromolly Posted December 29, 2024 Posted December 29, 2024 3 hours ago, Greasefinger said: I was thinking the same possible explanation. But as for sanding the overspray, wouldn’t that leave scratch marks that clear coat or another colour coat wouldn’t cover? Apologies, I should have said, and what I was referring to is, to "cut and buff" as it applies to a 1:1 car after the paint job is complete. The process of progressively working up to 1500 - 2000 grit followed by polishing compounds. You could also sand with fine grit paper and re-coat with paint or clear. 1
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