Ian McLaren Posted December 15, 2024 Posted December 15, 2024 Another new project, with the BubbleUp car stalled due to the Canadian Postal strike and indecision on the direction of the R-M Camaro Pro Stock: I'm starting a new model of a car I have history with. It is also a car that has a history of it's own. The story starts when a gentleman by the name of Mickey Thompson spent $6500.oo on an all titanium chassis for his latest car ( a funnycar chassis normally sold for $2000-$2500 at the time). The car had a firery if not stellar career, first with a Boss 429 and then a more conventional Hemi engine. It went through several bodies and at least 4 fire suits but it did meet with some sucess as well as an AA/FC. Eventually it was retired and found its way to Calgary Alberta Canada and began a second career in the lower ranks of the original Pro Comp Series. A short time later Norm Rousseau (RIP) took ownership of the car and it aquired BBC power in the form of an injected 512 C.I. nitro engine as an A/FC. Run for a part of the season in this form the Achilles heel of the titanium chassis showed itself in a proliferation of stress cracks that could not be stopped or repaired. The decision was made to copy the original chassis in 4130 chrome moly tube with a few updates required by the Chevrolet power and rule changes. The next spring the new combination started to compete in NHRAs Division Six. This is where I joined the team, and it soon became apparent that injected nitro just was no longer competitive with the blown alcohol cars and was much more expensive to run. The change was made to BB/FC with a new blower and Lenco three speed transmission. This is the version of the car I'm going to build. We raced the car for the next two seasons, primarily match racing with three other local funnycars as a booked is show aswell as the NHRA divisional meets. This is another bucket list build that I've wanted to build for decades, I hope you enjoy it and please feel free to ask questions or just comment when the spirit moves you. BTW that's me nearly five decades ago beside the car between rounds 3
Ian McLaren Posted December 15, 2024 Author Posted December 15, 2024 Starting off with the chassis, all brass and based on the photo showing it on top of Norm's Pontiac forits trip to Spokane to be certified. The photo in the lower right shows the chassis being built and you can just see the roll bar of the titanium chassis in the background. Also shown are the very early stages for the chassis sides out of the jig 6
AmericanMuscleFan Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 You never stop Ian, it makes a good show for us! This promises to be another interesting build and it starts off well with those brass chassis parts. 👌 By the way, as you probably already know, the strike at Canada Post is suspended for 6 months so you should soon see your precious package in your mailbox, your hands will be busy... and we won't complain! 😊
BK9300 Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 It’s a pleasure to watch these builds start, simply, and come together with all their characteristic complexity - the brass work always fascinates me!
Bainford Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Col story and history. I'm really digging this project. I'm coming along for the ride. Whatever happened to the original titanium chassis?
Ian McLaren Posted December 18, 2024 Author Posted December 18, 2024 4 hours ago, Bainford said: Col story and history. I'm really digging this project. I'm coming along for the ride. Whatever happened to the original titanium chassis? Part of it is still in Calgary, it resurfaced about a year and a half ago. I'm going in early January to photograph and measure it. I've been thinking of doing a proper version of the car when it still had the Boss 429 in it ( Chuck has Decals). I know the front half was cut off and I assume lost, years ago. But with measurements from the cage section and the photos out there that show the front half, I think I can come pretty close. I'll post some photos here of the original. 2
NerdmanB Posted December 19, 2024 Posted December 19, 2024 I will be following this build. I enjoy all your builds , so much to learn from someone as talented as you. I am planning on doing some scratch building with brass . So very interested in following along . Brian
Ian McLaren Posted December 21, 2024 Author Posted December 21, 2024 (edited) On 12/18/2024 at 4:43 AM, John B. said: I'm really looking forward to this one! Thank you John So am I, I've been looking forward to building this model in 1/16th for decades Edited December 21, 2024 by Ian McLaren
Ian McLaren Posted December 21, 2024 Author Posted December 21, 2024 On 12/19/2024 at 3:59 PM, NerdmanB said: I will be following this build. I enjoy all your builds , so much to learn from someone as talented as you. I am planning on doing some scratch building with brass . So very interested in following along . Brian Thank you Brian, I'll be showing some of the process regarding the brass fabrication in future up dates as well as other construction methods I use.
Ian McLaren Posted December 21, 2024 Author Posted December 21, 2024 The chassis is progressing, I will some of the process further into the project regarding the fabrication, I have also fount wheels and tires in the spares box for this project 2
Straightliner59 Posted December 21, 2024 Posted December 21, 2024 That's a great-looking body, on that car. I usually hate those front wheel bubbles, but they look good, here. This will be cool to watch come together!
Ian McLaren Posted December 22, 2024 Author Posted December 22, 2024 (edited) Seat construction, (1) (Photos in order) seat back and cushion panel cut to width and formed around upper and forward bars ( held in place with twisted iron wire to act as a clamp during fabrication and soldering) (2) marking side template (3) Rough cut side panels (4) Fitting and marking edge with a sharpy marker) (5) Remove area in black to refine shape (6)side panels soldered in place (7) Edges folded over upper side rails to form the seal to the body tin. I didn't cover the basic soldering techniques but I will post a tutorial if requested. For a change of pace and to get away from the soldering fumes for a while, next up will be the steps in the design of the decals for this build. Edited December 22, 2024 by Ian McLaren 5
Old Buckaroo Posted December 23, 2024 Posted December 23, 2024 Now this is a really cool project with a back story ! I love the pic of the chassis tied to the top of the family car. That is model worthy right there!! Are you using a micro torch or an electric iron for soldering?
AmericanMuscleFan Posted December 23, 2024 Posted December 23, 2024 Superb workmanship Ian, a pleasure to watch, very useful too! 👍
Straightliner59 Posted December 23, 2024 Posted December 23, 2024 On 12/22/2024 at 10:57 AM, Ian McLaren said: Seat construction, (1) (Photos in order) seat back and cushion panel cut to width and formed around upper and forward bars ( held in place with twisted iron wire to act as a clamp during fabrication and soldering) (2) marking side template (3) Rough cut side panels (4) Fitting and marking edge with a sharpy marker) (5) Remove area in black to refine shape (6)side panels soldered in place (7) Edges folded over upper side rails to form the seal to the body tin. I didn't cover the basic soldering techniques but I will post a tutorial if requested. For a change of pace and to get away from the soldering fumes for a while, next up will be the steps in the design of the decals for this build. This illustrates one of my favorite aspects of working with brass. Properly done, there's way more durability. It's easier to make changes, should they be necessary. It's possible to use things like wire, to aid in conformability. Great work, my friend! 1
Ian McLaren Posted December 28, 2024 Author Posted December 28, 2024 (edited) As promised here is a bit on how the decals are being done First photo is the basic graphics and the included details, The second photo is the printer I'm using ( a standard inkjet printer like most people will own) Photo three a photo of the graphics program I use ( I'm not endorsing this product, just showing what I use) The basic work screen ( this is from the GIMP program but most graphic programs will look similar). Lets talk about the printers first. Both laser and inkjet printers can be used to create decals instead of the comercial products and techniques commercial decal manufactures use but there are limitations and drawbacks to both home units. The main one being they don't print white as a color so any white in the decal has to come from either a white body on the model or from white decal paper. Secondly both machines print in translucent ink so the back ground color of the body shows through when using transparant decal paper (the back ground will change the look of the ink and color changes with show through the decal) black lettering is mostly immune to this but even it has some transparancy. If you use white decal paper the colors look correct but the body color behind and around the decal is white ( requires very carefull trimming of the edges and there wil almost always be a very narrow whte edge where is trimmed). Also hole in letters for example an O will have a white center and so would have to be cut out (no fun!)The main difference between laser and inkjet prints is that the laser ink is mostly water proof while the inkjet ink desolves when wetted. Laser decals can be used as printed if not gotten too wet for extended times, while inkjet decals have to be clear coated to protect the ink. There is a company producing a non recoat inkjet paper that is supposed to solve that issue, which I used on the Eddie Hill Top Fuel Car with fair success. But it has a dull surface and needs to be cleared either before of after installation to look correct. I used to do all my decals with a laser printer but switched back to inkjet for one simple reason. Resolution, is much better with inkjet when dealing with low to mid priced printers, and so small product sponsor decals are much sharper with an ink jet as opposed to a laser of similar quality. I'll touch on graphics programs briefly, almost anything on the market will do what is needed for basic decal production and the prices vary hugely and the differences are usually in capabilities that are of no rewal value to design and printing of most basic decals All of these programs have a learning curves of varing difficulties for even simple opperations but some are more intuitive than others. Options for these range from FREE open source programs to multi thousands of dollar for full function commercial offerings, but they all will do basicly what we need. There are work arounds for most of the short comings I have listed but they add to the difficulty of creating a creditable decal set. Receintly I had a project that I was trying to do the decals for and had spent many hours on, finally I contacted one of the best professional decal manufactures, sent him all of my research, discussed options and different appraoches, and had him do these decals. They are far superiour to what I could product because of the complexity and subject matter of the project. Some times you just need more talent and better equipment, but most of the time you can produce just what you need if your willing to put in a little effort. Edited December 28, 2024 by Ian McLaren 1
Straightliner59 Posted December 28, 2024 Posted December 28, 2024 I've been making my own decals, the last few years. I honestly think it's one of the things that's made it more interesting, for me. It used to be that I'd be digging through boxes of decals, and still never find anything I liked, as far as race car graphics go. Now, I can think of a name, and start designing. I love that! For the Badman, and the Nostalgia Top Fuel car, I printed layers (maybe a slight drawback, but, Cady did it that way, for years!), then painted, or, in the case of the Badman, applied paint, or leafing adhesive and gold leaf to one layer, then using the second layer for outlines. I am really looking forward to getting the decals on the car, although it's still going to be a while. These look super-nice, Ian!
Ian McLaren Posted January 2 Author Posted January 2 (edited) Progress on the chassis and drivetrain. Engine, firewall, bellhousing and Lenco all aligned on internal tube that lines up with the pinion. Mallory magneto built (aluminum) rear body support assy in progress. Roll bar/cage fabricated but not completed with head restraint bars (can't be installed until chassis, seat and seat belts finally installed. Correct early M/T short valve covers and Jomar stud girdle printed and painted, with blow by fittings installed. Lenco shifter printed and detailed. Edited January 2 by Ian McLaren 3
Ian McLaren Posted January 2 Author Posted January 2 On 12/27/2024 at 11:36 PM, Straightliner59 said: I've been making my own decals, the last few years. I honestly think it's one of the things that's made it more interesting, for me. It used to be that I'd be digging through boxes of decals, and still never find anything I liked, as far as race car graphics go. Now, I can think of a name, and start designing. I love that! For the Badman, and the Nostalgia Top Fuel car, I printed layers (maybe a slight drawback, but, Cady did it that way, for years!), then painted, or, in the case of the Badman, applied paint, or leafing adhesive and gold leaf to one layer, then using the second layer for outlines. I am really looking forward to getting the decals on the car, although it's still going to be a while. These look super-nice, Ian! Thanks Daniel! So far I'm satisfied with how they are turning out. I have been watching how you did the decals for the Badman and would like to give it a go, but I think I come up a little short on the talent deal for that.
AmericanMuscleFan Posted January 2 Posted January 2 Cool stuff Ian, I love this gold colored material (brass 😊) your builds lend themselves perfectly to it and you obviously master soldering! Did you print the differential, Lenco transmission and other parts yourself?
Ian McLaren Posted January 2 Author Posted January 2 (edited) 15 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said: Cool stuff Ian, I love this gold colored material (brass 😊) your builds lend themselves perfectly to it and you obviously master soldering! Did you print the differential, Lenco transmission and other parts yourself? Thank you Francis, Except for the body (Competition Resins), the fuel tank, engine (pan to injector) ,bellhousing,Lenco and shifters, wheels, tires and differential are self printed the Mallory / Joe Hunt magneto is scratch built from aluminum. To clairify all of the STL files are purchased, mostly from Ron Olson @3D Model Specialties although most of the files have been modified for this specific model. Edited January 2 by Ian McLaren 1
Ian McLaren Posted January 5 Author Posted January 5 Final positioning of the chassis to body, several adjustments had to be made to allow proper clearances to be maintained all at once, chassis ride height, body ride height, tire clearance and engine positioning. The engine needed to be lowered in the chassis to allow the body to be low enough for proper ground clearance while maintaing the hat to body relationship as per the real car (very low). This also required some additional grinding for roll bar and tire clearance. Adding to the complexity was the fact that the engine could only be lowered so much before an issue with header to upper frame rail came to light. These are things that don't normally happen when building a kit based model but become facts of life when scratch building a recreation and were also present when building the real cars. Having been there and done that on this particular car, I feel these issues enhance rather than detract from the modeling experience. In this particular case it also brings back memories of the things, places, events and people (many of whom are no longer with us) associated with this car. To set their final positions the firewall, dash area top, and front bulkhead had to be templated and revised several times before everything fell into place. From here forward the heavy lifting is complete, and now the focus is on adding details, wiring, refining surfaces, refinishing and final assembly. Still a long way to go but I think there is a faint light at the end of this tunnel. 2
Ian McLaren Posted January 12 Author Posted January 12 Progressing, body tin is roughed out. Not really thinking it would work I tried the tin out of the Green Elephant to save time due to the restraints of the build off. Turns out it was pretty close, can't be used as is but made a useful base and time saver over scratchbuilding the complete assembly.. If there is time left over I can try some detailing that I was going to ignore on this piece of the model. 2
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