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Posted

I've got the MPC kit as a builder - will not be hard to level up to my 1:1 shown below. 

But - the DM '67 GTO Convert is gorgeous, and I can easily see it in the PROPER Signet Gold with the redlines .

I've peeled some diecast for painting before - a few practically fell apart - but the better quality stuff put up a fight. 

Any info or experience greatly appreicated.

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Posted

Bob, I've modified a few DM/FM models. Most come apart by removing the screws on the bottom and gentle prying them apart. The DM '56 Ford convertible also had 2 screws under the convertible boot which I had to remove and then glue back. Hope this helps. Here are the ones I  modified.😊

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Well, it wouldn't let me edit my post to let you know what I did to each one, so here goes.

The FM '55 Chevy I removed the continental kit and converted to a hardtop. The FM Falcon was converted to the gasser from a stock model with serious issues. The DM '58 Bonneville I removed the continental kit. The FM '57 Bonneville I converted to a "what if" hardtop. And the DM '56 Ford I removed the continental kit. Also, you have to wiggle the steering column free from the gears on the front suspension. 😊

Edited by Geno
Posted

Thanks for the input - update.

I noticed in a '66 Mustang convertible that some parts were attached with what must be a CA type of glue. 

Is it CA or another glue? Is there a way to trickle in some debonder that might loosen anything with an attitude?

Lastly - (for a Maisto 1/18 '62 Bel Air project, but assuming practices are similar)  - what do you use to paint the interior parts with for a more realistic finish, they seem almost rubbery (?) 

Posted (edited)
On 1/24/2025 at 12:10 PM, Ragtop Man said:

 

Lastly - (for a Maisto 1/18 '62 Bel Air project, but assuming practices are similar)  - what do you use to paint the interior parts with for a more realistic finish, they seem almost rubbery (?) 

Perhaps consider raiding the stock of a body shop supply store consistent with turning up SEM interior refinish aerosols.  At first the coverage won't seem all that good given it's fairly thin, whereas definitely take care to spray some quantity off the surface you wish to cover because some mysterious residue will come out of the can (it always does) before the paint will flow to the nozzle.  Hard to explain accurately, but should you fail to heed that which I relate here, the unknown goo will end up on your work and you'll be at pains to strip and clean such prior to trying again.  After about four or five seconds of spraying the aforementioned 'goo' will clear out of the can, although the initial surprise experienced is just that.  

Other words of warning are warranted.  What's applied will at some point seem almost too thick to strictly work, threatening to erase underlying detail before gassing out, but when it finally does the sheen and finish is first rate.  Thin application of Tamiya's very good primer can help ease suffering consistent with effecting a color change, hence chose carefully and match products appropriately.  Very happy here with the SEM line, whereas if their catalog is judge too limited, 1:1 restoration specialists will either mix their own formulations to serve demonstrated need amongst the clientele they target.  Good luck...

Mike K.

Edited by swede70

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