bobss396 Posted March 17 Posted March 17 I figure since I have lots in the works with the Mustang and Gremlin, why not start a '35 Chevy coach? The body is 3 pieces, lots of work to get it looking good. I trimmed the lower rear off the body. I ended up splitting the horse-shoe body insert apart. It was the only way to drop the body on low enough. I made up stops inside the body for the insert to locate on. I had to trim the rear of the interior tub to fit it to the 3D printed chassis. Most engine pieces are painted. I used a 3D radiator (RAD_5) from Ron Coon Resins. The hood is out of a pavement modified kit. I put a pilot-hole in it until I finalize the .656" hole location. Deflector and air cleaner are Ron Coon items. 2
bobss396 Posted March 17 Author Posted March 17 Predator carb is on (CARB_6), from Ron Coon Resins. Headers are from VCG Resins, pinned with 1/32" brass. These need to be painted and go on after the engine is installed, unless I find out otherwise. 2
bobss396 Posted March 18 Author Posted March 18 Magneto is in, plug wires and boots are done. I left the valve covers for last. The Predator carb sits up quite high. I'll have to drop the engine in tomorrow and see if I have to come up with plan B... 1
bobss396 Posted March 18 Author Posted March 18 33 minutes ago, Vettegasser said: You’re doing some great stuff. All right up my alley. Thanks, I'm having fun with it. I have to make the headers a very easy fit, since they go on after the engine goes in. I have them pinned with 1/32" brass rod. I'm bouncing back between this and the Mustang modified. The hole in the hood is TBD, depending on the height of the air cleaner I plan to use. I may have to go with a lower profile one or bore a hole in the bottom of the taller one.
bobss396 Posted March 18 Author Posted March 18 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Volzfan59 said: I’m really enjoying your modified builds @bobss396 But wait.. there's MORE... I got the engine to sit right. I made up a tube to better locate the transmission tail shaft. BUT... the resin headers are a no-go. And the heads are drilled for them. I'll have to resort to using the kit pieces. I may have to give this one a time out. And the pilot hole in the hood is only about .080" too far back. Edited March 18 by bobss396 1
bobss396 Posted March 20 Author Posted March 20 Well... BACK IN THE BOX!! with this one. The VCG Resins headers AND the kit headers were not fitting, as is. There are some differences between the printed chassis and the kit chassis.. my bad for not finding this sooner. Then somehow I knocked a big piece off the front of the printed chassis, where the front crash bars mount up. I never dropped it or recall manhandling it. I have yet to locate the missing section. I'll put the cat on it... I do have a potential header fix. I took one repaired header from another BACK IN THE BOX!! special and sawed off the flanges. Drilled some #65 holes in the tubes about 1/8" deep. I cut up and squared up some 3/32" aluminum tubing 7/32" long, sleeved the inside with 1/16" tubing. I did this on the outside tubes only and test fitted it. I think it may work. I have to do a workbench... dining room table... clean up, scour the floor and all boxes/bins on the table to find that missing section. I am soooo disgusted that I cannot even take pictures right now. 1
bobss396 Posted March 21 Author Posted March 21 (edited) Holy ship... I found it! I 100% cleaned off my table today. Then I was looking for something else... on the floor... and it was staring back at me. I have a model show tomorrow to get ready for. So this may be back in work soon. For some reason I cannot attach a picture! EDIT: We are back in business with pictures. This is the chassis section that cleaved off and wound up 7 feet away. Edited March 23 by bobss396
bobss396 Posted March 26 Author Posted March 26 (edited) 7 hours ago, slusher said: Looking great Bob, engine looks great also… Thanks. The Milidon valve covers are cast resin I've had for years, made by Fred's Resin Workshop, now out of business I would like to solve the header riddle today. I will have some time while waiting for the paint on the Mustang AN fittings to dry. 3D printed so they are too fragile for the dehydrator. I am going to revisit the side rails and dive into my sprint car parts stash. Edited March 26 by bobss396
bobss396 Posted March 27 Author Posted March 27 The headers are in one piece and primered...I have some putty/blend work ahead of me. I looked at the front chassis piece that broke off. Apparently when 3D resin breaks, it is not a clean break, it sort of shatters like glass. So I'll have to reattach it and fill in the blanks. It did break off more cleanly towards the top of the chassis.ill pin it and use CA glue.
bobss396 Posted March 27 Author Posted March 27 More broke off than I had thought. Again, I have no recollection of dropping it at any time. All I can guess is that there might be locked-in stressed in 3D parts, and when they are released... watch out. I'm lucky to have a spare chassis that I can refer to. Missing pieces I can make from styrene or dig through my box of roll cage parts. I just got some 2 mm tubing I may try, although the wall thickness is about .025 mm. But 1/16" rod fits inside it
stitchdup Posted March 27 Posted March 27 3 hours ago, bobss396 said: The headers are in one piece and primered...I have some putty/blend work ahead of me. I looked at the front chassis piece that broke off. Apparently when 3D resin breaks, it is not a clean break, it sort of shatters like glass. So I'll have to reattach it and fill in the blanks. It did break off more cleanly towards the top of the chassis.ill pin it and use CA glue. did you print it yourself? if so you can brush more resin on the back of some parts and cure it again. stick some tape on the back of any holes you need to fill and the same process works to fill them too
bobss396 Posted March 27 Author Posted March 27 (edited) 2 hours ago, stitchdup said: did you print it yourself? if so you can brush more resin on the back of some parts and cure it again. stick some tape on the back of any holes you need to fill and the same process works to fill them too I bought it. The missing pieces that flew off are... missing. I made new parts from .080" styrene rod and it looks good. I'll do some putty in a bit and squirter some primer on it. Edit: Headers are good enough to paint Edited March 27 by bobss396
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