Moebius/ Model King 1966 F100 Styleside short bed "Hard Parked Edition"

[Dtimmerman89]

Moebius/ Model King 1966 F100 Styleside short bed resto mod "Hard Parked" Edition 

The only parts used oob are the interior tub, seat, dash & wheel, and of course, the body.

This truck is almost entirely 3d printed. I used a custom chassis with all tubular suspension components, bags that are modified to fit, as well as the pumps & tank. Some very nice 21" factory style steelies.  Billet Coyote with ITB's and a pair of small block chevy headers that fit coincidentally, too well. Batteries, switches, radiator & cap, etc etc. 

Lots and lots of dry fitting and adjusting with a slow setting CA glue. Once the suspension was finalized, I had to set the track width to get the wheel fit flush. 

I filled the door handles, emblems and gas cap for a nice shaved esthetic. Now I can finally finish up the body work on the inside of the bed and scratch a tonneau cover. 

 

[Kanada Kustoms]

Cool build…. Lots of cool 3D printed parts in play!  Gonna be a wicked ride!

[TopherMcGinnis]

[bobss396]

I'm in... is that an Iceman chassis? Can't get much lower than that.

I have a '60 Ford truck going with a Foose truck chassis under it. I'll start a thread later today.

[meechum68]

37 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

I'm in... is that an Iceman chassis? Can't get much lower than that.

I have a '60 Ford truck going with a Foose truck chassis under it. I'll start a thread later today.

Looks like an Iceman Chassis for sure. 

And this is gonna be wicked, and look forward to your build as well Bob!

[Dtimmerman89]

Yes, it is in fact an Iceman chassis. Even though it comes with two sets of link rods and control arms, extreme caution needs to be taken. Despite how delicate I am when building, I have managed to break all of them at least once. 🤦

When I do this same process on my 65 long bed and 69 short bed, I will make the rods out of aluminum to hopefully diminish the chaos is went through this weekend. 

[Dtimmerman89]

I have decided to use MCW enamels and it will be a factory yellow and white two tone. I have been building armor for over twenty years, and my specialty is weathering, so I may give this ride a slightly patina look since it's all the rage these days. I won't argue, either. I love the rusty resto mod look. 

[Dtimmerman89]

I have decided to use MCW enamels and it will be a factory yellow and white two tone. I have been building armor for over twenty years, and my specialty is weathering, so I may give this ride a slightly patina look since it's all the rage these days. I won't argue, either. I love the rusty resto mod look. 

[BK9300]

Wow, amazingly realistic rusted treatment.  Really like all the paint edges around rusted areas.  Every bit of surface area blends believably with the area around it.  Awesome skills!

Edited yesterday at 03:46 PM by BK9300

[Dtimmerman89]

12 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

Wow, amazingly realistic rusted treatment.  Really like all the paint edges around rusted areas.  Awesome skills!

Thank you, sir. I appreciate the compliment. I painted the rust using multiple techniques to give it that look. Not only does it look like it, it feels like it. She's a real barn burner at every show I bring it to. 

[BK9300]

1 minute ago, Dtimmerman89 said:

Thank you, sir. I appreciate the compliment. I painted the rust using multiple techniques to give it that look. Not only does it look like it, it feels like it. She's a real barn burner at every show I bring it to. 

In looking closely at all the techniques - I don’t do weathering yet, so wouldn’t be able to identify them all! - do you use salt to get your basic paint edges?  Also looks like some very handy , air brushing to blend the oldest rust areas, to bleed the newer rust into surrounding paint.  Boggles my mind to think of all that work - read somewhere that a weathering job like yours can take longer to do than the entire rest of the build!

[Dtimmerman89]

5 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

In looking closely at all the techniques - I don’t do weathering yet, so wouldn’t be able to identify them all! - do you use salt to get your basic paint edges?  Also looks like some very handy , air brushing to blend the oldest rust areas, to bleed the newer rust into surrounding paint.  Boggles my mind to think of all that work - read somewhere that a weathering job like yours can take longer to do than the entire rest of the build!

Yessir. I started with a brown primer as the base and added multiple gradients of salt to vary the size of the rust chips, multiple layers of sponge chipping to blend the colors from darkest to lightest and blended the same colors with an air brush to stain the paint. 

[BK9300]

Thanks for all the information!  Finally, if I may, what do you use to give that additional layer of texture, under some of the paint, to make it look like unexposed rust lifting underneath?  So much detail!

[Dtimmerman89]

How i achieved the bubbled rust effect is to leave some areas of the salt behind, typically the finest gradient is left behind. You can see it mostly on the outside of the wheel cutout. Also, make sure you use an 800 grit to knock down some of the ridges and pooling around where the salt was removed. Use your discretion on what you sand down to give it some texture, but to keep it from looking like an obliterated mine field. 

I may have to do a tutorial to show and explain my process. I think it would give lots of insight to weathering rust and how it works irl. 

[WayfromSmoke]

That’s sick I’m definitely following 

[bobss396]

22 hours ago, Dtimmerman89 said:

Yes, it is in fact an Iceman chassis. Even though it comes with two sets of link rods and control arms, extreme caution needs to be taken. Despite how delicate I am when building, I have managed to break all of them at least once. 🤦

When I do this same process on my 65 long bed and 69 short bed, I will make the rods out of aluminum to hopefully diminish the chaos is went through this weekend. 

Good tip on using aluminum to replace the 3D parts. I'll keep that in mind. Some of those parts are very fragile.

[Dtimmerman89]

I

1 hour ago, bobss396 said:

Good tip on using aluminum to replace the 3D parts. I'll keep that in mind. Some of those parts are very fragile.

I can't find any RB Motion rod ends to save my life. I'll have to make my own, I suppose. 3d printed parts are still just too brittle and not nearly enough resilience to hold up for long. 

[bobss396]

8 minutes ago, Dtimmerman89 said:

I

I can't find any RB Motion rod ends to save my life. I'll have to make my own, I suppose. 3d printed parts are still just too brittle and not nearly enough resilience to hold up for long. 

I have a few RB Motion parts, not enough to make anything good. I think he is still in business but hard to contact. 

I got a 3D Stock Car kit missing a bar, I made my own from .062" aluminum tube and a Ron Coon Resins rod end. He has a couple types that are handy for panned bars, etc.

I think that some 3D parts have stresses locked into them. I had a big chunk bust off a modified chassis and land across the room. Took me 2 days to find it.

[Dtimmerman89]

I am actually fairly local to Ron Coon. I'll have to give him a buzz. He's my source for vintage dirt track car parts and has a great selection of resin items. And yes, RB is still hard at work. I believe he had to shut down the site to catch up on production, he's one man jam band, like most others. As far as rod ends go, I can easily flatten some aluminum wire and drill it. I have some nickel wire, too, that would work well. Why spend money, when I already have the perfect material to make them myself? 

1 hour ago, bobss396 said:

Good tip on using aluminum to replace the 3D parts. I'll keep that in mind. Some of those parts are very fragile.

I can't find any RB Motion rod ends to save my life. I'll have to make my own, I suppose. 3d printed parts are still just too brittle and not nearly enough resilience to hold up for long. 

[bobss396]

I make up a lot of my own parts too. Really the way to go with Frankenstein projects.

[Dtimmerman89]

I am there with you. I honestly want some actual strength out of this thing. I shouldn't have to hold my breath every time I pick it up or set it down. 

[gautreau]

Great start so far. I'll definitely be following this build!

[BK9300]

4 hours ago, Dtimmerman89 said:

I can't find any RB Motion rod ends to save my life. I'll have to make my own, I suppose. 3d printed parts are still just too brittle and not nearly enough resilience to hold up for long. 

I was hoping to get some rod ends from RB, too, for some 1/24 Italeri truck suspension upgrading.  While looking for alternatives, I found, and ordered some different size brass, model ship, handrail stanchions that might be modified to work as rod ends.  There are some types available from model railroad sites, too.  No high jack intended - thought maybe these could be used by others looking for rod end substitutes -