2005 Mustang Buildup Update! Interior pics! 12/09/06

[MrObsessive]

Well here goes my next project............I figure it's about time I try my hand at something up to the minute! Here we have Revell's really sharp 2005-06 Mustang GT kit.

I was hearing some initial horror stories about the "softness" of the plastic.......so I decided to try something I haven't done for years. I airbrushed several coats of Future Floor Wax on the body. Thus, the really shiny appearance of the plastic.

The airplane and ship modelers have been using this for years, and I last did this in 1999 when I was building my '55 T-Bird. The Future kept that nasty red plastic from bleeding since I wanted a light turquoise car. I figured since it kept the plastic from bleeding, it should guard against the hot properties of the automotive paint I intend to use.

Here's the hood....................you can see the reflection of the lamp above-------I'm gonna let everything sit for a day or so before I try to primer. Although I could probably use the dehydrator to speed things up, I'm in not that big of a hurry.

Here's a shot of the bottle of Future in case you guys want to try this and want to find it in the grocery store. It doesn't need to be thinned, and I recommend using fairly quick passes when airbrushing to prevent runs! :shock:

The car will end up being Sonic Blue (A 2005 color)..............I will tweak the color pallette somewhat by painting the rockers a semi flat black to take some of the visual weight from the profile of the body (ala the 2007 Shelby) and it will have dual over the top stripes (white).

Wheels will be the mags out of the new reissue '69 Shelby Mustang low profilers

Of course, if I screw this up...........there are a million and one kits out there for me to try again! :wink:

Stay tuned!

[Mr. Metallic]

Bill, here's a couple things I ran into while building mine. First, you will probably want to file down the tops of the interior b pilars. They prevent everything from fitting up inside the body properly if not modified.

Also, my healight buckets hit the inner fenders when I tried to install them, did anyone else have this problem.

Looks good so far Bill, looking forward to see how your Future experimant turns out. BTW, I had no trouble painting the plastic with duplicolor primer and tamiya spray paints.

http://public.fotki.com/crstan/finished_mo...stang-gt-tuner/

[Wildrice]

I had no problems painting mine either. Duplicolor primer and Dupont paint.

[MrObsessive]

Both cars look great guys!!

Craig, what brand/color paint did you use for the interior? That's the color I want for mine...........a type of Parchment with the aluminum trim for the dash.

Thanks for the heads up also about the interior and headlight buckets. I dry fitted the interior beforehand and yes, it was a rather tight fit. :shock:

I figured since the paint I'm using is Dupont automotive...........I'd rather be safe than sorry since I have yet to build any new Revell kits with this newer plastic.

[Rick Forrester]

bill where did you get your paint stands? I've never seem before And think I would like get some. rick forrester

[MrObsessive]

bill where did you get your paint stands? I've never seem before And think I would like get some. rick forrester

The paint stands are Tamiya's...............they are really great for holding things in place! Here's the link for the stands..........

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rhz_tam.htm

[Mr. Metallic]

Craig, what brand/color paint did you use for the interior? That's the color I want for mine...........a type of Parchment with the aluminum trim for the dash.

Bill, the color is Model Master enamel FS 36622 Comouflage Gray

[cruz]

http://public.fotki.com/mjcole/central_pa_...ober/cruz1.html Hey Bill, this is a picture of mine, don't think you have seen it yet. I painted mine with HOK Lime Gold and Odds and Ends clear from Wal-mart, wet sanded and polished. Did not have any issues with the body while painting but then again I have never had any issues while using my favorite Floquil primer :wink: Pegasus rims and tires are the choice for its shoes and of course I lowered it a little more than usual for the ground hugging effect. Hope you like it and just to let you know I am happy that you are taking a little more time to build your models a little quicker for our enjoyment, I mean, I love to see those really detailed models of yours but brother I can assure you we will have more fun seeing more of your models on the tables Hope to see you at our next get together......

[MrObsessive]

Here's what I've accomplished so far this week.................It's been a interesting week as I've had to do some techniques I haven't tried for a while such as using the Future to guard against crazing.

Here's what we have so far....................

I primered the body using Rustoleum Automotive Primer. This is good stuff as I have used it in the past with no trouble..........and it dries reasonably fast.

The color I chose for the Mustang is 2005 Ford Sonic Blue. This was mixed at a auto paint supplier in a spray can.........I then loaded it in the airbrush jar and sprayed away!

The paint went on very easily with no problems. Since this is a metallic..........I had to spray in kind of a Zig-Zag pattern to avoid "zebra stripes".

Here's the can of paint I used. The paint has a built in spray pattern.....................but I never trust spray cans no matter who makes them! :x

Here's the wheels I intend to use...................they are out of the reissued Revell '69 Shelby kit. I just don't care for the wheels Revell chose to tool up for the current Mustang kit. I was hoping that they would have at least included the "Bullit" type wheels.

This is about the stance I want the car to have when it's all said and done. Some minor surgery will be needed to make the suspension sit a trifle lower. IMO, I think the car sits just a bit too high right out of the box.

Pretty much a industry standard in 1:1................a unit body car should show a bit of overspray on the chassis as the robots can't quite reach all the way underneath the car!

To add a little extra insurance against paint incompatibility...................I like to put a couple drops of this stuff in the airbrush jar.

There's nothing more irritating than a couple of fisheyes to ruin an otherwise good paint job! :x

The next step is whether or not to add over the top stripes..........that's something I haven't done in YEARS!! Then, clearcoat the whole works in my 'ol trusty Tamiya X-22.

While the body is drying.............I can be working on the engine, and interior.

Hmmm..............to stripe or not to stripe......that is the question.............:?:

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!

[MonoPed]

Great color choice, Bill!! I'm likin the wheels too!

I shot Tamiya TS-16 Yellow right over the bare plastic on this one, and had no issues with the plastic.

[BIGTRUCK]

Looks super Bill as do the other posted mustangs as well,,,,smoothie , totally forgot about fish-eye eliminator..great tip on future floor polish on bare plastic..

[MrObsessive]

Sharp 'Stang Brian!

I was tempted to try spraying the body without the Future......but I was hearing too many horror stories about Revell's new plastic!

It could be they went back to the old stuff midstream?

[Jason Rothgeb]

Sharp 'Stang Brian!

I was tempted to try spraying the body without the Future......but I was hearing too many horror stories about Revell's new plastic!

It could be they went back to the old stuff midstream?

Bill,

To my knowledge the hobby specific finishes such as Tamiya and Testors have not had problems with the "new" Revell plastic, it's only been the hotter automotive laquers such as Dupli-color, Plasticote, etc. Brian used a Tamiya laquer, hence no problems. Maybe I am wrong and someone out there has had problems with Revell plastic and the hobby paint, but my understanding is that it is only the hotter stuff.

[MonoPed]

...It could be they went back to the old stuff midstream?

Thanx Bill!!

They didn't go back to the old stuff midstream, at least not with my kits. The one shown here and the one in the pile are definitely the new softer plastic. I used Plastikote pewter grey for the interior, and it crazed big time. I didn't consider that an issue, I think of it as "adding texture detail" :wink:

[JTRACING]

this is looking Great!!

some stripes would really look nice on it 8)

[MrObsessive]

Okay, today since it was so rainy and crappy outside.........I decided to bite the bullet and paint on the stripes. Now mind you, I haven't done this in ten years since I built a '65 Shelby GT-350R!

I was never good at measuring off this and marking off that..........so I eyeball engineered where the stripes would go and went from there.

The yellowish tape you see is Tamiya tape which is absolutely FANTASTIC! I've used it before for masking off two tones and it never has caused me any trouble ever! 8)

The clear film you see is another good thing to have which is hard to find called "Parafilm". Laboratories use it to seal beakers............and it is very difficult to find unless you get it from Micromark.com

The center "spine" of the stripe was cut using a metal straight edge and an exacto blade.

I used Krylon White to give the brightest stripes possible. One nice thing about Krylon White is that it will NOT yellow over time.......and the pigments are tight enough to cover even black paint! 8)

I let the body sit in the dehydrator for about an hour......then peeled off the masking. I don't like masking to stay on but so long for fear of "imprinting" itself in the paint due to the heat of the dehydrator. Not to mention getting tape residue which is annoying to remove. :shock:

I'll take the polishing cloths and sharpen up the edges a smidge.........then the last step is clearcoat.....................but not today as I want the stripes to get the dehydrator treatment for a good 6 hours or so.

I originally thought about painting the interior parchment, but I'm going to paint it charcoal black instead. With the white stripes there would be too much "brightness" with that color interior.............I think the black interior would contrast better.

So I'll clearcoat tomorrow................then let the body sit once more in the dehydrator..........then I can work on the rest while everything is drying.........

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned! :wink:

[Gray Smith]

Man, Bill, thats a nice color, and imo your stripes turned out great! where does one find that fish eye eliminator additive?

Gray

[MonoPed]

Sweet!!

[MrObsessive]

Gray, you usually can find it at any auto paint supplier shop. There are a couple places in town here that carry it.........but I had to call around so it wouldn't be an endless search.

I actually still had an OLD bottle of it from years ago, but it was kinda thick and I didn't quite trust it. :shock:

[Lownslow]

nice 8)

[Tom Kren]

Nice job Bill love the colr and wheels

[Len Woodruff]

Okay, today since it was so rainy and crappy outside.........I decided to bite the bullet and paint on the stripes. Now mind you, I haven't done this in ten years since I built a '65 Shelby GT-350R!

I was never good at measuring off this and marking off that..........so I eyeball engineered where the stripes would go and went from there.

The yellowish tape you see is Tamiya tape which is absolutely FANTASTIC! I've used it before for masking off two tones and it never has caused me any trouble ever! 8)

The clear film you see is another good thing to have which is hard to find called "Parafilm". Laboratories use it to seal beakers............and it is very difficult to find unless you get it from Micromark.com

The center "spine" of the stripe was cut using a metal straight edge and an exacto blade.

I used Krylon White to give the brightest stripes possible. One nice thing about Krylon White is that it will NOT yellow over time.......and the pigments are tight enough to cover even black paint! 8)

I let the body sit in the dehydrator for about an hour......then peeled off the masking. I don't like masking to stay on but so long for fear of "imprinting" itself in the paint due to the heat of the dehydrator. Not to mention getting tape residue which is annoying to remove. :shock:

I'll take the polishing cloths and sharpen up the edges a smidge.........then the last step is clearcoat.....................but not today as I want the stripes to get the dehydrator treatment for a good 6 hours or so.

I originally thought about painting the interior parchment, but I'm going to paint it charcoal black instead. With the white stripes there would be too much "brightness" with that color interior.............I think the black interior would contrast better.

So I'll clearcoat tomorrow................then let the body sit once more in the dehydrator..........then I can work on the rest while everything is drying.........

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned! :wink:

Did you say you use Tamiya Waterbased Clear on this car? I have never been able to airbrush any acrylic paint. What is you secret?

[MrObsessive]

Did you say you use Tamiya Waterbased Clear on this car? I have never been able to airbrush any acrylic paint. What is you secret?

The pics that are shown Len don't have the clearcoat on it yet.....................I just did that last night and I'll post pics sometime this weekend after I get everything rubbed out.

I've never had trouble with Tamiya clear...............the key is to have high enough pressure in your airbrush, (about 20 PSI) and then to use their thinner. I've used plain alcohol in the past, and had nothing but trouble for some reason.

You have to make quick passes...................I use the largest tip in my Badger Crescendo and then let it set up for about 1/2 hour, then I put it in the dehydrator for about 8 hours.

It can be daunting to some who've never used it before, but it gives an excellent shine when rubbed out and it dries rock hard.

If you can find my '59 Buick thread, I also cleared that with Tamiya with no trouble. :wink:

[MrObsessive]

I got the body all rubbed out since clearocating it with Tamiya Clear X-22. I wet sanded with Detail Masters polishing cloths (3200-12,000 grit) and did the final polishing with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax.

One thing I found out is that you can't put too much of their thinner in the paint as it can actually cause fisheyes. I noticed this when I started to paint the one side.................I didn't like how it was turning out, so I stripped it with Windex, and started over.

Look at that reflection!

One nice thing about Tamiya clear is how rock hard it dries and how it can also be wet sanded just like regular paint. I use this type of clear coat mainly because most clears out there are just too "hot".

There's nothing more frustrating than to get all the way to having a great paint job, only to have to start over again because of clear ruining the paint! This is simple to strip if things get out of hand and clean up of the airbrush and jar is easy.

Later after the interior and chassis are done, I'll take some BMF and mask off the areas I want to paint black, such as the window and door sill trim.

Now I'm off to eat some fried turkey!!

Thanks for lookin' and stay tuned!

[mannyclub]

Killer mustang!!!!! Love the color and the stripes!

Manny