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Posted

:D :D Hey guys,

I usually wash,dry, and spray topcoat without primers.

However,I am building the Night Stalker Vette, and it is molded in black.

I am going to use a bright red for it and need to prime it.I have never done this and

Would like to pick some brains as to how long to wait to topcoat.

Does the primer need to gas out for a week or two or can you spray when it is dry to touch????

Thanks in advance for replies,

George Bluhm

Posted

I use only Plasti-Kote primers. After final priming I let the parts sit for 24 hours, do a final wet sand and then let sit until dry. If I'm in a rush, I'll crank my big compressor to blow dry the model and then start the color coats.

I'd have to watch the DVD "The Art of Airbrushing Show Quality Model Cars" by Donn Yost to be positive, but I believe Donn says to blow the model dry and paint right away. Less chance of dust that way. The DVD is only $20. You may want to invest in it like I did.

Posted
:rolleyes::lol: Hey guys,

I usually wash,dry, and spray topcoat without primers.

However,I am building the Night Stalker Vette, and it is molded in black.

I am going to use a bright red for it and need to prime it.I have never done this and

Would like to pick some brains as to how long to wait to topcoat.

Does the primer need to gas out for a week or two or can you spray when it is dry to touch????

Thanks in advance for replies,

George Bluhm

Man isnt this a cool kit!! I had this kit and with my luck not all the parts were in the box. I myself got stumped with the body being in a colored plastic and jus mist the coats with a light sanding afterwards. I am interested to hear how others have taken on the colored plastic dilemma.

peace

ajulia

Posted

Hi Guys!!!

Thanks for the replies.Yes,this is a very cool kit.I got it several years ago at a show for $6.00.

I plan to use Tamiya primer and MM( enamal) overcoat.

Anyone know of any problems with this??

Posted
Hi Guys!!!

Thanks for the replies.Yes,this is a very cool kit.I got it several years ago at a show for $6.00.

I plan to use Tamiya primer and MM( enamal) overcoat.

Anyone know of any problems with this??

Hey George :lol:

I don't know what your preferences are for paint type, but many of us here think of enamel as a place where most of us start, but then discover some of the drawbacks and frustration of using enamels as you get further into you building, and want paint that gives you the kind of finishes you may see on other guys stuff you like.

Most of us have moved on to paint brands like Duplicolor, PlastoKote, and Tamiya acrylac lacquers, even to auto urethanes, as they are much more user friendly, and seem to give better results consistantly - IMHO.

As far as your question, I couldn't answer, because I don't use enamels, but hopefully others will give you some feed-back also.

Good luck on deciding - dave

Posted (edited)
Hi Guys!!!

Thanks for the replies.Yes,this is a very cool kit.I got it several years ago at a show for $6.00.

I plan to use Tamiya primer and MM( enamal) overcoat.

Anyone know of any problems with this??

George, you should be OK with the Tamiya primer as long as you let it outgas and cure for at least 24 to 48 hours. I would use their white primer over that black body, and DO resist the temptation to use heavy coats. A light sanding with #1200 grit wet or dry sandpaper or a red (fine) Flex-Pad sanding stick should be all you need before you shoot your color coats. Lately I have taken to doing a light surface wiping using a fine microfiber cloth after sanding to remove any remaining sanding dust.

Also, wear a good quality respirator (NOT a dust mask) when you shoot that Tamiya primer. The fumes are noxious and hazardous to your health. Use an OSHA approved respirator rated for paint and chemical vapors. Your lungs will thank you!

Hope that helps!

Edited by larrygre

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