Dremel Tool Saw wheel

[The Red Ranger]

I am having a problem. I need to cut fenders off my Skyline, but I don't know how to make the horizontal cut. Someone told me you can get like a mini saw attachment for your dremel tool but I'm worried this would get too hot and melt the model.

Has anyone ever used anything like this or is there a better way to make horizontal cuts on a model?

Also if there is a solution, be it dremel too or other, where do I find it?

[crazyjim]

I have a baby circular saw blade with very fine teeth that I can attach to the Dremel. I suppose if I left it in one spot it would melt the plastic but it cuts so fast that never happened to me. Lowe's & Home Depot have Dremel baby circular saw blades but they have very large teeth. I picked mine at a flea market many years ago.

[diymirage]

why not cut it under water ?

(keep in mind my dremel has a flex shaft)

[Foxer]

I'd be interested in any links to a Dremel circular saw blade also. I've been considering one for some time but never got around to it. Thought I remember seeing like a PE blade at one time that was very thin .... exactly what I'd like.

I have a big "fat" standard blade I cut bodies with now, but that need to be retired.

The basic idea with any Dremel tool is to keep the speed low so it doesn't melt anything. This is simple with the battery operated tools. The plug in ones just don't run slow enough to not melt plastic.

[diymirage]

I'd be interested in any links to a Dremel circular saw blade also. I've been considering one for some time but never got around to it. Thought I remember seeing like a PE blade at one time that was very thin .... exactly what I'd like.

I have a big "fat" standard blade I cut bodies with now, but that need to be retired.

The basic idea with any Dremel tool is to keep the speed low so it doesn't melt anything. This is simple with the battery operated tools. The plug in ones just don't run slow enough to not melt plastic.

i disagree .

i have a plug in dremel advantage and it has 6 speeds, the lowest is fine for cutting plastic

[MikeMc]

so why not use a Zona????

Use just the tip of the blade!!!

[E St. Kruiser50]

I am having a problem. I need to cut fenders off my Skyline, but I don't know how to make the horizontal cut. Someone told me you can get like a mini saw attachment for your dremel tool but I'm worried this would get too hot and melt the model.

Has anyone ever used anything like this or is there a better way to make horizontal cuts on a model?

Also if there is a solution, be it dremel too or other, where do I find it?

Hey Red

I don't like the saw blades - too dangerous .

I use a 1" diameter cut-off wheel made by Dremel that comes in packs of around 25.

It's a fibre/abrasive wheel that you mount with a screw onto a shaft.

Only .025" thick - less than 1/32, which is .032" thick - very thin and will only break when put into a bind.

I use safety glasses with mine.

I use mine almost everyday when working on cutting up plastic bodies and such.

It's fast and accurate.

Because I'm a scratch-builder and customizer, nearly everything you've seen me post has had this handy tool used on it.

Been using it for decades, and consider it one of my main Dremel tools.

Home Depoe usually has them in stock, and the're cheap.

Hope this helps - dave

Edited July 31, 2009 by Treehugger Dave

[The Red Ranger]

Hey Red

I don't like the saw blades - too dangerous .

I use a 1" diameter cut-off wheel made by Dremel that comes in packs of around 25.

It's a fibre/abrasive wheel that you mount with a screw onto a shaft.

Only .025" thick - less than 1/32, which is .032" thick - very thin and will only break when put into a bind.

I use safety glasses with mine.

I use mine almost everyday when working on cutting up plastic bodies and such.

It's fast and accurate.

Because I'm a scratch-builder and customizer, nearly everything you've seen me post has had this handy tool used on it.

Been using it for decades, and consider it one of my main Dremel tools.

Home Depoe usually has them in stock, and the're cheap.

Hope this helps - dave

Thank you Dave!

The idea of me with a mini saw is a bit frightening. I will have to go to the Depot tonight and pick it up so I can get started on the fenders this weekend. Very much appreciated.

[E St. Kruiser50]

Thank you Dave!

The idea of me with a mini saw is a bit frightening. I will have to go to the Depot tonight and pick it up so I can get started on the fenders this weekend. Very much appreciated.

FYI

The shaft is a seperate piece that you have to purchase seperately.

I have several that I use, but they came included as an accessory with my Dremel tool sets.

[Harry P.]

If you don't want to mess with power tools and the risk of melting plastic, you can always use the backside of a #11 X-acto blade to scribe the cut, just like you'd do to cut open doors. It's slow (you have to scribe the cut many times before you get through the plastic), but it's accurate, and has zero chance of melting the plastic.

It doesn't matter one bit whether you're cutting horizontally or vertically... the blade doesn't care one way or the other...

[cruz]

I'm w/ Harry on this, it will be tedious w/ the Xacto blade but it will also be more accurate!!

[Abell82]

If you don't want to mess with power tools and the risk of melting plastic, you can always use the backside of a #11 X-acto blade to scribe the cut, just like you'd do to cut open doors. It's slow (you have to scribe the cut many times before you get through the plastic), but it's accurate, and has zero chance of melting the plastic.

It doesn't matter one bit whether you're cutting horizontally or vertically... the blade doesn't care one way or the other...

I third Harry's recommendation, and to expand on it.... Use masking tape!! Mask off the body where you want to make your cut, then you have an edge for the blade to ride against, to help make your cuts even more precise. remember, slow and steady.

[Rider]

why not cut it under water ?

(keep in mind my dremel has a flex shaft)

Awesome Idea, I'll have to try that.

[Foxer]

Hey Red

I don't like the saw blades - too dangerous .

I use a 1" diameter cut-off wheel made by Dremel that comes in packs of around 25.

It's a fibre/abrasive wheel that you mount with a screw onto a shaft.

Only .025" thick - less than 1/32, which is .032" thick - very thin and will only break when put into a bind.

Ahhh .. that answers my question too, Dave. Saw blades on the Dremel DO scare me .. in my hands! I just know I'd section my arm with one. Will have to check the fiber wheels .. they sound just right.

[935k3]

An even better way to guide the #11 blade is to by some rolls of DYMO brand tape for their label makers(the old mechanical types) it is thick and sticks well to a clean surface.

[E St. Kruiser50]

An even better way to guide the #11 blade is to by some rolls of DYMO brand tape for their label makers(the old mechanical types) it is thick and sticks well to a clean surface.

This was a great tip that I read on the "Scribing Lines" thread under "TIPS" link.

I went down today and got a three pack of the "DYMO TAPE" and used it for a guide scribing door lines on my '33 WILLY"S VICTORIA.

I used two thicknesses so the blade would track better.

Gotta say it worked great - I LOVE THIS PLACE.

The #11 blade thing is always a good stand-by for detail stuff, but for "HACKIN" AND SPEED THERE'S NOTHIN' LIKE THE WHEEL .

I'ma hackin junkie .

[diymirage]

i used a excecto knife to cut the front end of the VW bug and it was a PITA

however, i use the same fiber cut of discs as mentioned before

but i have never had the testicular fortitude to actually use it on bodylines that need to be a perfect fit

like dave said, they are great for hacking though (and the bug will see plenty of hacking)

[diymirage]

i used a excecto knife to cut the front end of the VW bug and it was a PITA

however, i use the same fiber cut of discs as mentioned before

but i have never had the testicular fortitude to actually use it on bodylines that need to be a perfect fit

like dave said, they are great for hacking though (and the bug will see plenty of hacking)

[nitrojunkie]

The Exacto knife is the safest and usually the most accurate.However if you insist on the saw blades Crazy Modeler offers a set of 3 and the needed mandrel in a photoetched set.Be forwarned they are nice and fast I am sure they will cut hands fingers etc faster than styrene and it will not feel good!!!!Good luck in your endeavor and be careful if you go the saw route.Here is a link to what I have check with Strada Sports http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=170

Edited August 1, 2009 by nitrojunkie

[Fletch]

There seems to be a lot of advice on how to avoid using a circular saw blade, but no information on actually using one or acquiring one as was the initial question.

Yes, if you're not careful a circular saw blade can be your worst enemy, just as a cut-off disk can be. They don't call them Cut-off disk just because someone couldn't think of a better name forl them. I can provide you a list of names of people who have gotten just as nasty a cut from a cut-off disk as they have from a standard Zona Saw, me included. Anytime you chuck a cut-off disk or a circular saw blade up in a Dremel there is an inheritant risk. So, reasonable eye protection should be used as well as being totally aware of what you're doing. When you have a cutting blade of any type spinning at 5,000 RPM things can go wrong quickly.

There are several options available when it comes to circular saw blades depending upon how much money you want to spend and what kind of life you expect from the blade as well as how much material do you want removed each pass of the blade (the saw kerf). One other thing to take into consideration is the number of teeth on the blade, the more teeth the better for cutting plastic. While fewer teeth work great for wood they will shred plastic.

Personally, I use a Photo-etched blade available from Voyager Model from Japan but available from several distributors in the US. They come in sizes ranging from 20mm - 36mm in both Fine and Course blades. They fit a standard 1/8" mandrel with no major problems. They run about $7 for a package of 2 blades. Granted the P/E blades do not last as long as the higher priced blades and you will need to change them more often, it comes out about even in the end. BTW, the P/E blades are .012" thick less then half the thickness of a standard Dremel cut-off disk.

Hosted on Fotki

http://www.voyagermodel.com/products.asp?producttype=tool

Circular Saw Blades are available from several different sources. Others I've used in the past are from Gyro Tools. You can buy a combo pack which includes the blade and a new mandrel or just a single blade, they also have them in bulk packs of 10 blades. The combo packs run $17.95 - $29.95. While a single blade start at $14.50 and go up to $26.50.

http://www.gyrostools.com/Miniature-Circul.../c15/index.html

The last source I know of is Micro-Mark, they have a good selection of Circular Saw Blades in different sizes and teeth configurations. With Micro-Mark make sure that you check the mandrel size when ordering as ALL their saw blades are on one page and you could easily end up ordering a 3" blade for a small table saw not a Dremel Motor Tool.

http://www.micromark.com/saw-blades-and-cut-off-wheels.html

I use an older (because it hasn't died yet) Dremel Model 750 Cordless Mini-Mite. It has 2 speeds 5,000 and 10,000 RPM, if you don't move the blade as you're cutting or mistakenly turn it on to 10,000 RPM it will melt plastic in a heart beat, but the same can be said for a cut-off disk. All things take into consideration it's a matter of your comfort level with the tools you're using, some of the nastiest cuts I've ever gotten have been using a Zona saw. When using a Circular Saw Blade in my Dremel I know exactly where my fingers are in relation to the blade at all times. Saw blades and flesh do not play well together no matter the size of the blade.

I hope this helps to answer your question.

[Harry P.]

There seems to be a lot of advice on how to avoid using a circular saw blade, but no information on actually using one or acquiring one as was the initial question.

Actually the initial question included the phrase "or is there a better way?"

I think that question was answered pretty well.

[E St. Kruiser50]

If you don't want to mess with power tools and the risk of melting plastic...

AWWWW HARRY, YOUR NO FUN .

Seein' if you can melt the plastic is the whole idea

[Harry P.]

AWWWW HARRY, YOUR NO FUN .

Seein' if you can melt the plastic is the whole idea

When I was a kid we would go to the hobby shop on Saturday morning, come home and build our new models, then stage crashes where we would smash them into each other and set them on fire. Styrene burns real good!

So actually, I've done my share of melting plastic!

[E St. Kruiser50]

When I was a kid we would go to the hobby shop on Saturday morning, come home and build our new models, then stage crashes where we would smash them into each other and set them on fire. Styrene burns real good!

So actually, I've done my share of melting plastic!

HERE WE GO - MAN I LOVE TELLIN' STORIES

WHEN I WAS A KID ( BEFORE THE DINASAUR'S ) we'd get these cheapie full build-up kit's of balsa airplanes, that were rubberband powered ( The parts were printed on a sheet of balsa wood and you had to cut them out) - build um up, then climb on the roof of our shed out in the country, wind up the rubber band, and then while one guy held the airplane, the other guy would squirt the rest of the wood glue out of the tube we used to build it, all over the tail-end of the plane, light it with a match, and let 'er go, just like in the black 'N' white WW1 movies of ariel dog-fights we used to watch at the saturday matinee down at the local theatre.

MAN THAT WAS KOOL .

[Harry P.]

There's just something about watching a model burn...