Battle of the Spray Chrome - Alclad vs. SpazStix

[larrygre]

Hey folks,

I've never used SpazStix Mirror Chrome - never even SEEN it for sale in all the vendors I deal with - but I have used Alclad chrome and the stuff is fabulous.

Weigh in here - which works better, or are they just as good? What do you use as a base for both? Examples?

[steve_b]

I've been using it for over a year now....it's nice stuff, but not the least bit durable and clear coats seem to really kill the shine.

they recommend a water based clear, haven't found one yet that doesn't wash it down

working on some test samples of different types of chrome, will post all soon....

[crispy]

Here is the link to Bob's test:

Alclad vs. Spaz

Chris

[Zoom Zoom]

You can Google to find Spaz Stix, you can buy it directly from them.

I found mine in the R/C dept. of the local Hobbytown USA. It's an R/C-related lineup, that's why it's not commonly known by model car guys.

My experience is that Spaz Stix is better; slightly more reflective, will adhere to Tamiya TS black...my Alclad looked fantastic on Tamiya TS...but it didn't stick...and that was applying over both cured & wet Tamiya TS.

If you already like & use Alclad, you're good to go. If you need more...perhaps try Spaz Stix.

And neither takes clearcoat without serious degradation of reflectivity. Some say Future works, not in my experience.

[george 53]

Wow, so really this IS kinda inconclusive. If you go thru the trouble of applying EITHER one, a Clear overcoat is just gonna PROTECT a DULLED finish. I guess it'd just be better to send it out to be chromed!

[Jeff Sauber]

Wow, so really this IS kinda inconclusive. If you go thru the trouble of applying EITHER one, a Clear overcoat is just gonna PROTECT a DULLED finish. I guess it'd just be better to send it out to be chromed!

I agree.

These various chrome paints are great for smaller stuff like bezels, small trim pieces, engine parts, and other minor details, but for big bumpers and other "large surface area" parts, [especially those with lots of crevices and crannies and such], Chrome plating is the only way to go....You're just not going to be able to beat the look of chrome plating, no matter what brand of paints are being used.

[Chuck Most]

I've noticed that too- bumpers, large trim pieces, and the like are best just being vacuum plated. I've never seen SpazStix applied, but I've seen plenty of Alclad, and it's kind of like BMF- most convincing when used in moderation!

[Chuck Most]

It's probably just a personal opinion thing, but I actually think from a "scale appearance" perspective that some of the alternatives to vacuum-plated plastic look more realistic. The problem is, if you're going to use Alclad on, say, bumpers you need to be consistent or the other things you leave plated will jump out. To my eye, plated plastic is much brighter than chrome-plated metal. Many newer 1:1 cars use similar-appearing plastic "chrome" parts though, so vac-plated would be appropriate to match those. But if you're going to go with Alclad bumpers, I think it's appearance suicide to have a chrome grille, etc. anywhere nearby on the finished product.

I agree with the first part, some alternatives are more realistic. And I wholeheartedly agree with your second point- I've seen many models with a mish-mash of kit chrome, Alclad, and BMF- there IS a difference in the appearance of the three finishes, and mixing the three often has disastrous results from an appearance standpoint!

[E St. Kruiser50]

It strikes me much the same way as when people use urethanes on models. You can get a fantastic "effect" with them, and make visually stunning models. But the visible paint build thickness is also very much overscale unless you're working in 1/12 or maybe even 1/8. Even then, perhaps only on an over-the-top custom type model as well.

I agree with everything you've said here Mark except this last statement of yours.

I find that the final thickness depends on the technique being used, and the skill of the painter, like most any painting.

For me, I love using urethanes, because it has so much more pigment than lacquers or enamels. I can lay down way less paint, and have way more crisp details and "POP" after the last coat of clear.

But again, it's all in the skills and technique.

[Jeff Sauber]

I agree with the first part, some alternatives are more realistic. And I wholeheartedly agree with your second point- I've seen many models with a mish-mash of kit chrome, Alclad, and BMF- there IS a difference in the appearance of the three finishes, and mixing the three often has disastrous results from an appearance standpoint!

Here's a car that features a mixing of various "chromes" polished aluminum, and stainless....

For this project I used duplicolor spray can chrome, bmf, billet aluminum rod, stainless steel tubing and actual chrome plating...That's an entire soup of mixed metals....LOL.

If done right, mixing it up a bit isn't all that disasterous...I think the mix and match routine came out pretty well on this hunk of junk...

Edited January 26, 2010 by J. Sauber

[Mark Brown]

It's probably just a personal opinion thing, but I actually think from a "scale appearance" perspective that some of the alternatives to vacuum-plated plastic look more realistic.

I couldn't agree more.....although I've not really been knocked out by the alternatives, to me, plated plastic looks exactly like.....plated plastic. It invariably looks like plastic and it's almost always too shiny....unrealistically so. I build almost all racecars, and unless they're trailer queens or just got the expensive detailing treatment, real racecars rarely have ultra-shiny chrome, even on the few parts that are chromed. The same thing is true, to a lesser degree, on non-race cars and trucks. The vast majority have chrome that's not nearly as shiny as the plated plastic in our model kits.

Now, whether these products are the solution, I'm not convinced. But it's nice to see people thinking outside the (vacuum plated) box.

Mark

[Modelmartin]

The brightness of vacuum plated plastic is probably due to it being aluminum and real car chrome is nickel. They have different hues with the aluminum being sort of whitish, yellowish and the nickel being sort of bluish - a very cool color. I agree with the idea that if you match things up better then things look better. BMF with vacuum plated parts looks good as does a well done Alclad model. One guy in our club built the Hayden Proffit 62 Bel Air and I was blown away when he told me he had Alcladded the bumpers. I honestly wouldn't have known. they looked great.

Personally I rework all my chrome parts and get them redone. I can't stand kit chrome and all the flaws underneath it from flash to part lines.

I occasionally build a brass era car and get those parts replated and airbrush a mix of Tamiya clear, clear yellow and flat base on . The clear yellow is too... Yellow! Diluting it really helps the look and a bit of flat base knocks down the shine just enough to look realistic.

[Chuck Most]

Mixing the different chromes CAN certainly look good- If (like, say, Jeff Sauber) you know what you're doing. It seems some guys don't, but mix different chrome methods anyway. I'm still going to give Alclad a shot one o' these days, and might even try out Spaz Stix, but if I can't get it all to look cohesive- I'm picking one method and sticking with it!