DM Hood Pins

[my 70 chevelle ss]

Morning,

I'm putting Detail Master Hood Pins on a car I'm building. It says to use epoxy glue to mount the round scuff plates to the hood. What is a good epoxy glue to use? or Can I just use Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker?. I don't want to fog up the pieces. Also should I glue them on after I clear coat the paint? or Before?

Thank You!

WiLL

[Guest]

Will, any brand of 5 minute epoxy will work, the Testors clear cement should work as well, or you could use a drop of Testors clear paint, or a drop of Future floor polish as well. Put them on after you clear coat, one of the last things you want to do..

[shucky]

I always use Devcon 5 minute epoxy for tiny detailing bits like that.

[2002p51]

Midnightprowler has the right answer. Just use a drop of clear coat paint. That way if it moves of shifts a little before it dries, nothing shows.

[shucky]

Its personal preference, not really a right or wrong answer here. Epoxy requires more work (mixing, etc) however the most tiny of drops of epoxy is MUCH stronger than using a drop of clear, future, etc. Plus epoxy allows a few minutes of repositioning time regardless of how tiny the drop is. You will NOT have this with using a tiny drop of clear as it will dry extremely quick. Epoxy also will dry clear. Plus I guarantee a pinhead size drop of epoxy is stronger than a drop of clear which has much more chance of leaking out under your part yet yields much less strength. I know folks use clear to mount PE parts, all the power to them. I myself have not had luck with doing so

and have always felt the parts are not secure enough for my likings. Using epoxy may take a bit more work on the front end, but because of all of the benefits I mentioned I find myself not having to ever re-do any mistakes with positioning or parts falling off or leakage, etc. Try both and see what you feel allows the best working time and positioning of your parts. Good luck.

[2002p51]

I don't think the relative strength of a chosen adhesive is much of a factor when you're talking about a tiny piece of photo-etched metal that weighs maybe a couple of micro-grams.

[shucky]

Drew, while this may be true .. I can tell you that I've accidently "touched" ever so slightly parts that were mounted with the "clear" method only to have them fall off the model. This may have been simply be removing a hood or final detailing of a sub assembly. Clear just does not give a good bond IMO. It may work but for how long will the bonded PE piece stay put? How delicate may that PE piece be afterwards? Again just personal preference. I clearly like epoxy, you apparently like clear. I stated to the OP to try both methods and listed pro's and con's of each. Now we can carry on. Happy building!

Edited March 17, 2010 by shucky

[Jon Cole]

Like Mike says, it don't take much for the part to run away from home.

Another challenge is holding on to that tiny part! You could use tweezers, but I have seen them "snap", or the part shoots off the tweezer into carpet never-never land. Try a "Super Sticky" Post-It.

[Guest]

Mike, I have PE on kits that has been there for years with no issues using clear. And I have always had plenty of positioning time. It dosnt dry that quick, no quicker than epoxy. maybe you have used clear laquer. That may dry quicker, but not Future or enamel. Both methods work fairly well. The epoxy method is a bit more of a pain to do, and epoxy can be a bit thick is the only real negatives about it..

Edited March 18, 2010 by midnightprowler

[shucky]

Hmmm ... Lee I may revisit using clear. I believe I did try laquer, thinking I may need to give enamel or future a shot. Thanks for pointing that out lol I was stuck on using epoxy but may just give this another shot now. Thats why I love this site, I tried to help someone and here I was the one who got helped as well. Nice, thanks guys.