Modelmartin Posted April 9, 2010 Posted April 9, 2010 Will you guys speak English Please? I'm all cornfused now. Dan You are a master of Emoticonese.
Modelmartin Posted April 9, 2010 Posted April 9, 2010 Will somebody bring a dickshunary Here you go, man! No problemo. Deekshoonaree
Scale-Master Posted April 9, 2010 Posted April 9, 2010 Here you go, man! No problemo. Deekshoonaree Hey, that site at the link to the Deekshoonaree mis-spelled Deekshoonaree!
caine440 Posted April 9, 2010 Posted April 9, 2010 I understood every thing except the "Slixx caters to Mopars." If you build gassers you would see that slixx does not carry a Chrysler bodied set of gasser decals except for the Big John Cuda set. What type of decals are you trying to find? Then again, if I had a alps printer I would be making my own also. Slixx sells what is popular and going to make them a profit. I see no favoritism in their product line. I let my mine sit for a couple of days before clearing over any decals.
vaughn Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 you guys speak in a model car language to begin with !!!! Do not make it any more difficult than it already is !!! Please explain some of the abbriviations that are so obvious to all of you model car gurus and not to those that are ignorant or not worthy !!! Maybe a model car glossary is in need for those who are not that familiar or astute !!! BMF WTP for example and all the others that are spoken on a regular basis. Give us a break !!! And Dont tell me ...I should already know this stuff. SHARE.... with us who do not know your lingo !! But still know how to build a model car !! thanks
Karmodeler2 Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 Will, Dave and Mark are amongst the best model car builders in the country. Their advice is sound. Hey Andy, Thanks for the kind words. I'm not sure what "country" that Mark and I reign supreme in, but it can't be a good thing!!! I like to think that I don't do anything that someone else could not do if they put the same amount of patience and effort into their build. I have no hidden talent (really, trust me!!) or special tricks: just time and patience....which can run thin at times. Thanks for thinking I'm "up there", but when I see the guy from Brazil with the all brass Bentley Blower, or a Tom Kirn Duesenberg SJ where the panels were hammered out over wooden bucks, or David Cummins 1/16 scale works of art that he designed, fabricated and built from nothing, then I walk away humble and inspired to be better. And your motorcycle you had at GSL a few years ago was incredible. What a VERY CLEAN and well executed build you did on that!!!! David Glad I wasn't in your class!!!! I think you took first....right?
Karmodeler2 Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 you guys speak in a model car language to begin with !!!! Do not make it any more difficult than it already is !!! Please explain some of the abbriviations that are so obvious to all of you model car gurus and not to those that are ignorant or not worthy !!! Maybe a model car glossary is in need for those who are not that familiar or astute !!! BMF WTP for example and all the others that are spoken on a regular basis. Give us a break !!! And Dont tell me ...I should already know this stuff. SHARE.... with us who do not know your lingo !! But still know how to build a model car !! thanks Hey Terry, I'm not sure what WTP is, but WIP is work in progress and BMF is Bare Metal Foil. It's a thin, aluminum-like foil that has an adhesive back and can be used to make things look like chrome. Like the trim that goes around windows for cars from the 60's and so on. If you see some acronym that you don't understand, just ask. I see them all the time on here and don't know what they mean. I ask others who tell me. I don't text on my phone, so some of those acronyms are from the text world, and I don't get them either. David
vaughn Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 Thanks David....Yea it was WIP. Anyway....question for you. This is gonna be my first try with BMF. And was told at the hobby shop that I have to remove the existing chrome. Is this true ? And is the oven cleaner the best rout? The guy at the hobbyshop said to put it on the parts and then bake at 200. I am all ears !!
charlzrocks Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 I concur, all previous retorts heretofore notwithstanding as it were so to speak, whatever. I use Future (Pledge with Future Shine) yes it's an acrylic clear coating for floors. No it does NOT need to be airbrushed on as it is SELF LEVELING. It will NOT harm your decals. You can spray it if you like but it will look as good brushed on. Clean the brushes with ammonia or windex. It costs about $6 a bottle at Walmart. Invest the money, TEST it on a PLASTIC SPOON with some decals already applied. Your model will react just like the spoon and be all shiny and bright. All will be right with the world. You can exhale. TRUST ME.
Guest Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 (edited) Thanks David....Yea it was WIP. Anyway....question for you. This is gonna be my first try with BMF. And was told at the hobby shop that I have to remove the existing chrome. Is this true ? And is the oven cleaner the best rout? The guy at the hobbyshop said to put it on the parts and then bake at 200. I am all ears !! I dont know what kind off goof you have at your hobby shop, if you do that, you will have a puddle of plastic. If you are going to use oven cleaner, use Easy Off original, spray it on, leave it sit, then scrub and rinse. I use Simple Green, full strenth, far less caustic. Leave it in the Simple Green for a couple of days and it's gone. BMF will stick over the kit chrome anyway. I think that guy is out to lunch for sure. Edited April 11, 2010 by midnightprowler
vaughn Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 I dont know what kind off goof you have at your hobby shop, if you do that, you will have a puddle of plastic. If you are going to use oven cleaner, use Easy Off original, spray it on, leave it sit, then scrub and rinse. I use Simple Green, full strenth, far less caustic. Leave it in the Simple Green for a couple of days and it's gone. BMF will stick over the kit chrome anyway. I think that guy is out to lunch for sure. Well Lee...sometimes I think so also (about the hobbyshop guy ) Thats why I am getting other opinions. So you are saying, that there is no sense in dechroming the plastic before applying BMF ? Or is it just better ? I am hearing different tales. I will just try on some other parts and see before I get into overkill. I do have patience and want to enjoy and not go crazy like some others. I am still all ears !! thanks again
Karmodeler2 Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 Thanks David....Yea it was WIP. Anyway....question for you. This is gonna be my first try with BMF. And was told at the hobby shop that I have to remove the existing chrome. Is this true ? And is the oven cleaner the best rout? The guy at the hobbyshop said to put it on the parts and then bake at 200. I am all ears !! Terry, I put BMF on top of chrome all the time with no problems. I use it to cover the area where the plastic tree was attached to the part. If you tear the foil in small pieces, you will have a "patch" that will not be as noticeable as a square patch with clean lines. If you burrow it down with q-tips and toothpicks, you will hardly notice the fix. As far as stripping chrome, I use Easy Off Oven Cleaner....Original Formula only. All others are not effective the way this product is. Takes a few minutes to strip the chrome. Takes another bath to get the clear off the part that was put on there by the model company prior to chroming. David
Guest Posted April 12, 2010 Posted April 12, 2010 If you are simply touching up the chrome with BMF, no reason to remove the chrome, for sure. I still say, if you are in no hurry, Simple Green is the way to go, it only takes a couple of days of soaking.
vaughn Posted April 15, 2010 Posted April 15, 2010 so what I am gathering is....you can dechrome if you wish !? Or you dont have too. !? Why do people dechrome....so as to paint a different color ? If you dont have too....why do it ? I guess its one of those things that you figure out thru trial and error. If I decide to, I will use the Simple Green, or the other, or the other, or the other. Thanks guys
Flo Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 Did you seal your decal sheet after you printed it? Testors makes a decal bonder spray that seals the ink of the decals on the paper after printing from an inkjet printer. You can get it at Hobby Lobby and most hobby shops that sell Testors decal paper and printing software.
highway Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 Thanks David....Yea it was WIP. Anyway....question for you. This is gonna be my first try with BMF. And was told at the hobby shop that I have to remove the existing chrome. Is this true ? And is the oven cleaner the best rout? The guy at the hobbyshop said to put it on the parts and then bake at 200. I am all ears !! I dont know what kind off goof you have at your hobby shop, if you do that, you will have a puddle of plastic. If you are going to use oven cleaner, use Easy Off original, spray it on, leave it sit, then scrub and rinse. I use Simple Green, full strenth, far less caustic. Leave it in the Simple Green for a couple of days and it's gone. BMF will stick over the kit chrome anyway. I think that guy is out to lunch for sure. The BEST product I have found for removing chrome is Dawn Power Dissolver. It's in the dishwashing section and eats chrome like a hungry bear eats honey! It only takes about 3-4 hours to totally take the chrome off parts, undercoat and all. If you leave it overnight, ALL chrome and undercoat WILL BE GONE by morning!!! Since it is actually for pots and pans with baked on gunk, it's non toxic, and washes off easily with regular dish soap. Try it, YOU WILL LIKE IT!!!
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