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Posted

I was going to do this one up simple, but the more I looked at it, the more that changed. So here goes, 110" sleeper:

025-2.jpg, 020-3.jpg, 026-2.jpg, 030-2.jpg.

Cut and just sitting on the table. As I don't know how many pics is the limit for a single post, I will try to keep it to 3 or 4.

Posted

078-1.jpg, 079.jpg, 095-1.jpg, 096-1.jpg, 108-1.jpg

This is the chassis and sleeper stretch (by NO means anywhere near done); the engine is going together now. I will post more pics when I get a chance to upload them.

Try not to laugh too hard at this.

Posted

Try not to laugh too hard at this.

No laughing here, either! I do have a couple suggestions, though. I have this Ford with a 180 inch sleeper in progress and have learned a lot on frame and sleeper stretching.

HPIM1870.jpg

First, I would suggest that you add some C channel inside the frame where you spliced the frames from a point in front of your first splice all the way to a point past your last splice. That will help keep the splices from cracking apart.

Second, fill the first set of sleeper doors and vent, leaving just the rear ones. You are off to a nice start, keep it up!

P.S.: Bradley, if you want to see my WIP pics, here's a link to the build of my Ford:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28849

There are some pics I have of the beginning of the build up of the frame and sleeper that I didn't post, but if you want to see them, PM me.

Posted

Cool build idea. I have not actually seen one of these trucks put together yet. I think that they have some of the best detail in their parts thought. Good luck.

Posted

Hey Matt, thanks for the tips and ideas. I have the frame stiffeners made up, just not installed yet (I made them to look like the chassis bracing the frame comes with and will be placing them where I think the factory would have). I have removed the forward vent and sleeper door and sanded/filled the seam lines smooth. I have the steps behind the fuel tanks made as well.........just haven't got any recent pics yet. Color will be Gloss Black frame/suspension, Chevy Nassau Blue Metallic for the cab/sleeper/hood/tanks, and either White or Silver Frost Pearl for the Seminole striping (outlined by a thin Black pinstripe). More to come as progress happens.

Posted

Hey Matt, thanks for the tips and ideas.

No problem, I like to try to help whenever I can. I'm looking forward to your progress.

Posted

The Kenworth looks great! The 110" Sleeper looks right and in keeping with the overall look of the truck.

Matthew,

Interesting comment about the splicing of the frame when stretching. Altenatively make some new frame rails out of C Channel. That way there would be no splice. But I think it would still need strengthening. I wonder if you could use the structural strength of the sleeper to strengthen the frame? Just a thought.

Dave

Posted

By tying his frame into the sleeper floor I can see that Idea working. I however have to reinforce my frame as a major cut was made behind the sleeper in the spindly section of the frame between the sleeper and the forward rear axle. I haven't found 'C' channel long enough for one continuous frame rail yet.

Posted

Matthew,

Interesting comment about the splicing of the frame when stretching. Altenatively make some new frame rails out of C Channel. That way there would be no splice. But I think it would still need strengthening. I wonder if you could use the structural strength of the sleeper to strengthen the frame? Just a thought.

Dave

By tying his frame into the sleeper floor I can see that Idea working. I however have to reinforce my frame as a major cut was made behind the sleeper in the spindly section of the frame between the sleeper and the forward rear axle. I haven't found 'C' channel long enough for one continuous frame rail yet.

Great minds think alike! I added square tubing the same size as the cab mount running along the top of the frame rail so when I begin final assembly, the sleeper will be glued to the frame. It also extends past my splices to add strength.

HPIM1923.jpg

As Bradley said, though, I have not found any C channel long enough, and in the case of my Italeri frame, tall enough, to use as a frame rail. The largest C channel from Evergreen fits inside the stock Italeri frame rails. The best match I could find for the Italeri rails was actually large square tubing I cut in half to make the stretch portion.

Posted

Matt, I was thinking the same thing on the square tubing. Unfortunately, all the square tubing I have seen is too thick for scale appearance (even though it is the right size for the rails).

Posted

Matt, I was thinking the same thing on the square tubing. Unfortunately, all the square tubing I have seen is too thick for scale appearance (even though it is the right size for the rails).

That's where I got lucky with this being a 1/24 scale Italeri frame. Have you thought of rectangular tubing? That may work better on yours.

Posted

By tying his frame into the sleeper floor I can see that Idea working. I however have to reinforce my frame as a major cut was made behind the sleeper in the spindly section of the frame between the sleeper and the forward rear axle. I haven't found 'C' channel long enough for one continuous frame rail yet.

hi whale, great job on the big house KW. iwas actually thinking of doing that, now that i see how well yours looks i know im gonna. as far as the frame rails go i bought a nice set of ebay from a guy named rhino9904 they are 24" long by 1/2" tall and the "c" notch or webing is 1/4". he has them buy it now for $12.00 . he also has different sizes , smaller and more heavy duty. cant wait to see that K- whopper all finished .

Posted

Thanks for the heads-up on the EBay frame material Dennis....I will have to check that out.

i just talked with ryan ( rinoo994 ) he said to give out his email, i wish i new how to send pics already but i dont yet. the fraim rails he has are plastic not resin, and they are nice quallity. he has more stuff like texas bumpers from real alluminum and what not. heres his email= rhino9901@wildblue.net

hope this helps you out along with anybody else. talk at ya soon ; dennis

Posted

No, Im will not be making a daycab from the scrap. I did think about it, but it would be too involved for me to do, so the scrap will be used to test paint/techniques on.

Posted (edited)

085.jpg, 083.jpg, 082.jpg, 081.jpg, 086.jpg, 087.jpg

Some of the engine shots in progress. Almost done with it and starting to add weathering to the engine, along with the lines and air hoses.

094-1.jpg, 098-1.jpg

The last one is the 40' to 48' stretch trailer I am working on to go with the tractor. Never mind the gear not being under it, I just set it out to get a sense of proportion.

Edited by whale392
Posted

Nice start.the side view shows perfect proportions.I like that you didn't go over board with the wheelbase.

I better get a couple of those KW's as well as another PETE,I parted out my first one.Those revell kits have good detail and lots of posabilities

Kevin

Posted

By tying his frame into the sleeper floor I can see that Idea working. I however have to reinforce my frame as a major cut was made behind the sleeper in the spindly section of the frame between the sleeper and the forward rear axle. I haven't found 'C' channel long enough for one continuous frame rail yet.

Evergreen plastic & plastic struct has 1/4" channel u could use for frame rails

Posted

That's where I got lucky with this being a 1/24 scale Italeri frame. Have you thought of rectangular tubing? That may work better on yours.

I have got from plastic struct I beams 24" long & used dremel & sanded off one side smooth than drilled holes for ax.I did this on a car carrier I made & loaded it down with 10 die cast metal cars & had no bend. H&P

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