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Posted

I just bought these two bottles at the LHS for $1 each with more on the shelf available.

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Anybody ever use it in their airbrush for models? What primer and/or sealer should I use?

If I use it for a two tone paint job, what other paints are safe with it and what paints are not?

Any info or further hints that I didn't think of would be appreciated. I was thinking of using the gold as a base for a clear color, such as a red or blue.

Later-

Posted (edited)

I have used that paint for years on my R/C cars its great for that application it sticks good to Lexan and is flexible and nitro fuel resistant. I had an older bottle laying around so I let my boy spray his first car last night with an airbrush. I used rattle can Krylon primer and shot the paint thinned with some lacquer thinner.It was a little flat but it think some wet sanding and polish will help. Mine was the not the Acryl you might need a different thinner. When you paint a lexan body for an R/C car you paint the inside of the body. I never used a sealer or primer because the lexan bodies are clear. The paint covers great I have never used them with any other type of paint. But I have mixed and matched those brands with good results.The pearls are a nice color experiment a little for $1.00 you can't go wrong. This was for an R/C application but I think it will work good for you.

Edited by mredzadventure
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys. Anyone else got any advice? I'll have to try the Windex. Seems to me since it is water based that all of the things for Tamiya's bottle paints should work on this?

Later-

Posted

Not necessarily. Tamiya's paints are unique unto themselves, more of an acrylic "laquer" than a true acrylic per se. Pollyscale's acrylic paint reducer renders Tamiya into cottage cheese, (don't ask) and I've found Tamiya's laquer thinner to be the bee's knees for spraying their acrylic.

You will have to test for compatibility as you move along toward paint.

G

Posted

Oh and if using Windex,it can be used to clean the airbrush. Just remember to clean it from the airbrush afterward as the ammonia will corrode brass parts.

G

Posted

Wayne-

Thanks for the advice. I'll try the Windex once I finally get to the point of painting. My main concerns are for down the road after I've painted anything. I don't want to find out after a month that the paint is having a bad delayed reaction to something I did wrong. I guess it might be best to find an RC board and ask around there. Thanks again.

Later-

Posted

You won't have any issues long term, that's as stable as paint gets. When fully cured, i.e. all the carrier solvents have gassed out,it is quite inert.

G

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