resistance soldering equipment

[my80malibu]

What could be recommended wattage size For the average size brass tubing, and square tube. sizes that are generally used. in 1/25 scale. For example 1/8 to 1/4?

[Guest old man]

i use a weller 8200-n 100/140 watts it heat's up real fast it will get the job done

[Len Woodruff]

i use a weller 8200-n 100/140 watts it heat's up real fast it will get the job done

So is this a resistance unit? I am not familar with that model.

Edited August 23, 2010 by Len Woodruff

[Karmodeler2]

What could be recommended wattage size For the average size brass tubing, and square tube. sizes that are generally used. in 1/25 scale. For example 1/8 to 1/4?

The equipment I use is adjustable, so I use a setting that melts the solder and joins the two. If it's thin brass, I use a lower setting. I have had small brass parts vaporize (almost, nothing left but a little black crumb) because I had the heat too high and it caused the brass to glow red.....real red red hot, then it just crumbled. It's hard to give you a set voltage/wattage because of the different sizes/thicknesses of brass/bronze/copper.

If you are asking for advice on equipment, I recommend the following:

I use the one from Micro Mark made by American Beauty. They have it on sale right now. It is expensive, but man, does it work GREAT. I mainly use it for intricate work. Dirk Joseph turned me onto a torch that Radio Shack sells for $20. It's butane and you can control the flame. It's awesome too. I use at least 3 methods for soldering and all 3 have their place and purpose.

I would recommend the set up from Micro Mark. I bought the set up with the tweezer hand piece, but I ordered the needle nose one today. You will want to order extra tips (for the one you choose). You will also want to keep a sanding stick close by. When you use the resistance, it forms some slag on the tips, (from the flux) and you can take a sanding stick, grab it with the needle points, and move it back and forth to get a clean surface. Both your metal and your tongs need to be clean for the electricity to pass through.

Hope this helps.

David

[my80malibu]

The equipment I use is adjustable, so I use a setting that melts the solder and joins the two. If it's thin brass, I use a lower setting. I have had small brass parts vaporize (almost, nothing left but a little black crumb) because I had the heat too high and it caused the brass to glow red.....real red red hot, then it just crumbled. It's hard to give you a set voltage/wattage because of the different sizes/thicknesses of brass/bronze/copper.

If you are asking for advice on equipment, I recommend the following:

I use the one from Micro Mark made by American Beauty. They have it on sale right now. It is expensive, but man, does it work GREAT. I mainly use it for intricate work. Dirk Joseph turned me onto a torch that Radio Shack sells for $20. It's butane and you can control the flame. It's awesome too. I use at least 3 methods for soldering and all 3 have their place and purpose.

I would recommend the set up from Micro Mark. I bought the set up with the tweezer hand piece, but I ordered the needle nose one today. You will want to order extra tips (for the one you choose). You will also want to keep a sanding stick close by. When you use the resistance, it forms some slag on the tips, (from the flux) and you can take a sanding stick, grab it with the needle points, and move it back and forth to get a clean surface. Both your metal and your tongs need to be clean for the electricity to pass through.

Hope this helps.

David

Thanks that certainly was helpful. I was curious if the 100 watt would do ok. or if it was worth the extra money for the 250 watt version.What would be an example of a lower setting?

[simonr]

Hey Dave, do you have micro mark's catalog part number?

Simón P. Rivera Torres

The equipment I use is adjustable, so I use a setting that melts the solder and joins the two. If it's thin brass, I use a lower setting. I have had small brass parts vaporize (almost, nothing left but a little black crumb) because I had the heat too high and it caused the brass to glow red.....real red red hot, then it just crumbled. It's hard to give you a set voltage/wattage because of the different sizes/thicknesses of brass/bronze/copper.

If you are asking for advice on equipment, I recommend the following:

I use the one from Micro Mark made by American Beauty. They have it on sale right now. It is expensive, but man, does it work GREAT. I mainly use it for intricate work. Dirk Joseph turned me onto a torch that Radio Shack sells for $20. It's butane and you can control the flame. It's awesome too. I use at least 3 methods for soldering and all 3 have their place and purpose.

I would recommend the set up from Micro Mark. I bought the set up with the tweezer hand piece, but I ordered the needle nose one today. You will want to order extra tips (for the one you choose). You will also want to keep a sanding stick close by. When you use the resistance, it forms some slag on the tips, (from the flux) and you can take a sanding stick, grab it with the needle points, and move it back and forth to get a clean surface. Both your metal and your tongs need to be clean for the electricity to pass through.

Hope this helps.

David

[simonr]

Dave, OK,I saw it,its real expensive indeed..over $300 the cheaper one.

Simón P. Rivera Torres

Hey Dave, do you have micro mark's catalog part number?

Simón P. Rivera Torres