Window Tinting

[MikeMc]

I want to tint some windows like 1:1 cars...dark in the rear and lighter up front. I have the film and its fighting me..Do I use it and glue it in, put it over clear acetate ,or??????

Issue I have had is after cutting and glueing..its got bubbles.....anyone do this with success??

EDIT!!!!!

scroll down to see!!!

Edited September 4, 2010 by MikeMc

[scummy]

G,day mate , yer i used it a couple of years ago .I got the off cuts from a window tint place , here in australia the tint has a clear film on the back so i just peeled it off and sprayed a lite coat of dish washer soap and water so i could move it around the clear windows to remove any bubbles and left it .The film has a sticky surface when you peel of the clear film .Cheer's .

[VW Dave]

A buddy who tints professionally told me that the film is not compatible with plastic, so it will break down over time...no telling how long that is, however.

I've had good results using tinted report covers from a local office supply store; the thickness is much more accurate than kit glass, if you plan on having them half-open, and you can double the layers to make a darker shade. The material cuts easy with scissors, and I use MicroScale 'Krystal Kleer' or 5-minute epoxy to glue them in.

[High octane]

You could also use "smoke" colored acetate.

[highway]

Mike, I don't know if this will help you much or not, but a friend of mine used regular automotive tint on a model and didn't have any problems with it. I'm sure VW Dave's friend, being a professional in the field, probably is not wrong about it breaking down over time, but I know at least in my friend's case with the pickup he used the tint on, the tint has held up for about 10 years at least and the tint is fairing much better than the rest of the truck!

If you do choose to try it, follow Mark's advice and apply it just as you would on a 1:1 car.

[MikeMc]

I wondered if it had a carrier.....let me look closer..Thanks guys!!

WEEEEELLLL GOLLLEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!

that now gives me a sticky side.......this will work!!

Edited September 3, 2010 by MikeMc

[envious8420]

from the 1:1 world, a little heat does wonders. (hair drier) to help with shrinking it around curves, and always leave it a bit big and trim after it dries. also takes 2-3 days in the sun (on a 1:1) to dry.

[MikeMc]

Put it over clear acetate, shrunk it with a hair dryer on low, glued the acetate in place.....Worked great!!!

Will post pix soon in my JWAC build Its even and see thru!!!

Edited September 4, 2010 by MikeMc

[MikeMc]

Looking Good......

Sorry about the fuzz in the first pic....it does show the density best

Edited September 4, 2010 by MikeMc

[highway]

That looks like it turned out very nice, Mike.

[MikeMc]

It did, I was quite surprised how good. By using the clear acetate the windows are stiff, looks great from afar, and allows you to see inside....the front is clear and allows the details to be seen.. .When I applied the film I did squeegie the excess water out. I tried on a scrap to double up the tint...that did not work as the filw would not stick to the first layer.

Edited September 5, 2010 by MikeMc