Finish for paint

[oversteer]

I finished my first model and learned alot.Now I come to the next model and a question.

Is it better to rub your paint out using the 3400-12000 grit system and then polish?Or is it better to use a clear coat.

What system will give you the smoothest shiniest finish?

I have yet to find a complete set of instructions that give every detail like,how long to wait between coats or do you wet sand or dry sand.....stuff like that.

Just so you know I use Tamiya paint and I use primer.I shake them well and place them in warm water.

This is a pic of my very first model,It came out better than I thought it was.

I totally forgot to spray the inside of the roof.

[showbuilder]

I finished my first model and learned alot.Now I come to the next model and a question.

Is it better to rub your paint out using the 3400-12000 grit system and then polish?Or is it better to use a clear coat.

What system will give you the smoothest shiniest finish?

I have yet to find a complete set of instructions that give every detail like,how long to wait between coats or do you wet sand or dry sand.....stuff like that.

Just so you know I use Tamiya paint and I use primer.I shake them well and place them in warm water.

This is a pic of my very first model,It came out better than I thought it was.

I totally forgot to spray the inside of the roof.

to get the best shine and depth to your finish you should always wet sand and buff. this is true with or without clear. if that was your first build you done a great job on it. looks good.

[davyou5]

This is a subject matter in which I would like to learn too. As there are many different techinques some of which I have found on You Tube. I did learn about the Wet Sanding, but I wet sand after about 3 to 4 coats of clear. I bought one Testor's Tac Cloth which is very sticky, but it seems to have given me a good shine on the '68 Charger I did, all of what I have done is experimental, so I do think that a good tutorial from this forum would come in handy for those of us in the learning process. .

[ewaskew]

I can tell you guys this much.

[1] I do all sanding before any paint getting the body preped removing all mold lines,any puddy work,body work

using 150 grit sand paper [Dry sanding.]

[2] Then I spray Gray dupli color filler primer about 3 thin coats you will see all of your scratchs from the 150 grit.

I let it dry 12 hrs or more.

[3]After it dries I mist coat it with black OR what ever color I'm going to use,then start wet sanding

with 400 grit untill all is even and smooth.Solid gray no mist paint showing.

[4]I spray it untill it is covered about 5 thin coats of what ever color I use.

And let it dry for 2 days or more then lightly wet sand with 600 grit staing away from edges and [high areas trim,emblems,acc.]

[5]If I do'nt sand through,.I start clear coating up to 3 or 4 coats most of the time it is smooth and no more sanding is done.

If It do'nt look slick enough I add more thin coats of clear untill I get it the way I want it.

The coats of clear needed,depends on the color being used.The dark colors slick up with a few coats it seems like.

All of my painting is done with cans.I set them in warm tap water a few minutes.NOT HOT WATER JUST WARM TO THE TOUCH.

As for the young builders on here talk to your PARENTS FIRST before warming any paint.

I wash them after each step with Dawn then after they sit around driny.I wash them one more time before the paint

go's on.

During this process of painting if any trash pops up I stop,let dry,fix it,then back to painting.

The 57 chevy was painted 14 years ago and I can still see my tv screen clear from 10 feet away.

The 41 red truck painted 2 years or more.

The dodge 1 month ago.

The 55 chevy is current it has dust that has to be removed and it will be wet sanded then more coats of clear.

Thats how I test to see how smooth it is LOL. I hold it up to see the tv screen clear from 10 feet away and then I'm happy

with it.

Over time I may wax them if they get real dirty.I had to do just a couple of them to clean them up.

I never use a polishing kit.

If the car is going to a show I may wet sand with 1500 up to 2000 grit if needed between coats.

Edited October 24, 2010 by ewaskew

[Junkman]

I think there is no set procedure carved in stone. By the sounds (and looks) of it, you are doing everything right.

Whatever needs to be done to achieve a nice finish on the model you are working on needs to be done. I find paint finishes differ from paint to paint, model to model, and also depend on my form of the day. Some require nothing at all, some need a slight buffing, some need severe cutting back and polishing. The main thing is to lay the paint on as thin as possible, especially if you don't build customs. The thicker the paint, the more vague the moulded on trim becomes. The thinner the paint coat, the more realistic the model is going to look. Metallics always require a clearcoat. Solids sometimes. Most of the models I see nowadays at shows are too glossy for my taste. Unnaturaly glossy. Like if there was a secret competition going on to out-gloss each other. This may be fine on customs, show cars and hot rods, but most cars aren't really that glossy when they leave the factory. Smooth, yes. But half an inch of buffed out clearcoat? No. I think someone here even started a thread on the subject because he has the same impression.

[ewaskew]

I think there is no set procedure carved in stone. By the sounds (and looks) of it, you are doing everything right.

Whatever needs to be done to achieve a nice finish on the model you are working on needs to be done. I find paint finishes differ from paint to paint, model to model, and also depend on my form of the day. Some require nothing at all, some need a slight buffing, some need severe cutting back and polishing. The main thing is to lay the paint on as thin as possible, especially if you don't build customs. The thicker the paint, the more vague the moulded on trim becomes. The thinner the paint coat, the more realistic the model is going to look. Metallics always require a clearcoat. Solids sometimes. Most of the models I see nowadays at shows are too glossy for my taste. Unnaturaly glossy. Like if there was a secret competition going on to out-gloss each other. This may be fine on customs, show cars and hot rods, but most cars aren't really that glossy when they leave the factory. Smooth, yes. But half an inch of buffed out clearcoat? No. I think someone here even started a thread on the subject because he has the same impression.

You hit it on the nail.Thats why I show the diffrent photos of gloss some are deep and some are not.

The one thing to remember is that you will see it on your shelf more than anybody.

Maybe you could put up some photos of your builds on here for them to see.

I have seen some of your work,and it seems to me that the way you rust them out,unless I have you mixed up with some else,

is a craft all its own its not as easy as some may think.

[Junkman]

You hit it on the nail.Thats why I show the diffrent photos of gloss some are deep and some are not.

The one thing to remember is that you will see it on your shelf more than anybody.

Maybe you could put up some photos of your builds on here for them to see.

I have seen some of your work,and it seems to me that the way you rust them out,unless I have you mixed up with some else,

is a craft all its own its not as easy as some may think.

No, I'm not the ruster. I like my cars in as new condition, be it models or real cars. In fact, that rat-look craze does nothing for me.

What I'm trying to achieve is the look a car has on the day you drove it home from the dealership. I'm not saying that I'm sucessful, but that is what I'm aiming at.

As you can see, they are smooth, but not christmas tree balls. This is how I like them.

On hot rods or customs, that's a different story though:

[davyou5]

Thanks of the Tips guys, I now get to try some others, Experiment on others anyway. All of the those photo's posted here are really nice!

[ewaskew]

No, I'm not the ruster. I like my cars in as new condition, be it models or real cars. In fact, that rat-look craze does nothing for me.

What I'm trying to achieve is the look a car has on the day you drove it home from the dealership. I'm not saying that I'm sucessful, but that is what I'm aiming at.

As you can see, they are smooth, but not christmas tree balls. This is how I like them.

On hot rods or customs, that's a different story though:

Thats some nice builds.I'M not a rat fan or a rust fan either when it comes to what I build.

I just like to see the details and craftmansship in any model.

[Junkman]

I'M not a rat fan or a rust fan either when it comes to what I build.

I just like to see the details and craftmansship in any model.

Absolutley. I don't question for a second the advanced skills and craftsmanship required to rat-look, rust, or wheather a model. These guys work a lot harder than I do.

[MikeMc]

Two names to look up Bob Downie....get his airbrush book.....

Donn Yost.......his DVDs are killer

Start with these gents and their techniques..in a few years you too can put down a great paint job. Me I learn each and every time I paint how to improve!!

[oversteer]

Thanks everyone