Photo etch parts?

[cazxr2]

I was just wondering if anybody could shed dome light on this subject. I am bidding on a photoetch set for the tamiya r34 skyline as I have that in my to do list. The thing is. Is it reallyworth buying? Does it really make much difference? How do u use them? What foes the end result look like? It's the nismo z tune photoetch set from tamiya them self. I will try get pics layer. Thanks in advance Craig

[SuperStockAndy]

Although I've never used them, I'll share a couple tips that I've learned from the other people here.

It's basically like parts trees, but it's really thin metal. Usually all photo etch trees include badges. In my opinion, these badges enhance the model the most. Like I said, I've never used it.

You need to use super glue (ca glue)

Hope this helps

Edited December 28, 2010 by Android

[Greg Cullinan]

I'm not familiar with that specific set.

I have used the badges on a mustang build and that 5.0 in Chrome looked good. And a little dab of superglue is what I used. A tip I heard is to use clear nail polish.

[cazxr2]

This is the kit and photoetch

[dannyi]

I personally think their worth the money, (that is if you don't have to bid through the roof for them). I did these on an Edsel build and thought they enhanced the model quite well. I also had good results by using Model Master Flat Clear Acrylic. The parts stayed in place and dried with no signs of adhesive.....in the pic of the dash board I used rings around the gauges and the ignition...

[crispy]

I used the Nismo set on my Nismo kit. In my opinion it adds more realism to the kit itself. In using the photo etch on other kits I have seen that not all of it can or should be used. As was stated earlier sometimes the kit plastic works better than the metal itself. I don't think I used all of the p.e., but I also keep it all in case I want to use it for something else. Parts is Parts.

Here's a shot of the brakes utilizing the p.e. set.

Screens:

emblem on the front:

The completed car:

Tamiya's p.e. is nice, but in my opinion overpriced compared to some sets you can get with a plethora of parts. All the same you do get some nice stuff and I would recommend p.e. for any kit using it where necessary to add to the overall build.

Good luck!

Chris

[Agent G]

Some tips if I may.

For the most part stay away from CA glues. Fogging will occur, and, if you place a part crooked, your screwed. CA is good for armor and other military subjects as we tank builders put the whole thing together, then paint.

I use several different types of adhesives. Clear paint is, first and foremost, my favorite. Dab a bit on, place the part and wait. You can use masking tape to create a ledge for the emblem to sit on while the paint dries, preventing gravity from taking hold. There is a certain type of white glue called Gator Grip, that I have been using a lot lately. It's a bit different from good old Elmer's, it dries quickly and is rock hard.

http://www.gatorsmask.com/index.html

Future is also a good alternative, I've used it a lot for clear parts.

Again I'm using all this on armor, but the basics are the same.

That's a fairly simple detail set which will look good when applied. Those nickel frets can be polished up beautifully. DON'T use a power tool, like a Dremel, for this. Talk about a launch like the space shuttle.

Brass PE bends well when run through a candle flame first. Nickel is tougher but as you can tell, the set you are looking at is designed in a way that the parts sit flat and require little or no bending.

G