crazyjim Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I like to remove door handles and emblems. I've tried brushing on liquid glue to the area when still raw. I've tried Future and primed when it was dry. But I still get ghosting. I never had the problem when I used Testor's or Tamiya rattle cans, but now I use HOK basecoats and candies. The ghosting doesn't appear after the silver or gold basecoat - only after I spray the candy. I don't like the idea of going back to rattle cans. Any suggestions to my dilema? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc @ MPC Motorsports Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 What thinner are you using? I use Gunze Mr Color thinner because it is cooler than hardware store or auto parts store lacquer thinners. Tamiya makes a comparable lacquer thinner too. Also, go light coats if possible and let each coat gas out up to 30 minutes so you aren't laying down too much wet paint at one time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 You need a hot solvent cement...Tenax or pro weld work. after shaving flush, apply cement, let dry, sand. do this all over again, prime with duplacolor primer, sand and seal with duplacolor sealer primer. Base it (I shoot bc26) color it, clear it ....let it be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Maybe that's the problem - I've using Testor's liquid cement. I have Tenax and will try it. I always use Plasticote primers will try the duplicolor sealer primer. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobdude Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I use Ambroid Pro-Weld about 4-5 times between sanding,sure it's time consuming,but I find out before I prime if the detail is not coming back to haunt me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Try thin CA brushed on the bare filler, sand smooth and use your regular primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Try thin CA brushed on the bare filler, sand smooth and use your regular primer. I agree. I've had no problems laying some superglue on the area which seems to allow the "raw" area to harden sufficiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Jim, I don't know if you ever saw this but here is my thread that I did as a semi tutorial on ghosting a while back. It's pretty much what the others have said and yes..........you'll need to use a hotter solvent such as Ambroid or Tenax. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 I guess I'll have to try the Tenax treatment and then the CA treatment. Yes, I read your post severl times, Bill, but that was some time ago and I forgot. I'm not very good at searching for old posts. Are you ever going to start posting your builds/tutorials again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Are you ever going to start posting your builds/tutorials again? Not in the near future Jim. Lately, I'm just not in the building mood........not to mention, got a lot going on in the family right now. Maybe later on when I get over this slump......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Lombardo Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) If you remember, on my 1936 Ford Roadster posting of a week ago or so, I experienced the same problems with ghosting on many of the panel lines. I used all of the known methods to attempt to remedy the problem. Nothing worked as the plastic the car was molding in was just too soft. My experience is that the softer the styrene used in the molding process, the more difficult it is to stop ghosting from occurring. I think it is just one of those weird little things we have to deal with. At first I was loving the soft plastic for the modifications and opening panels I was doing, but soon realized that I should have been suspicious of the soft plastic. Edited January 16, 2011 by Peter Lombardo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 I didn't notice any ghosting on your gorgeous roadster, Peter. I'm going to try Ambroid because he bottle cap has a little brush on it. First I have to finish stripping the '53 Ford pickup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I had problems with this too, ever since I am full on with the airbrush, the problems are over. Simply because the primer I use, is acryllic based and does not interfere with the plastic, so just sand it smooth, primer it and the ghosting is gone. I had it just once after I completely used the airbrush and that was because of the Alclad primer, which is not acryllic based. But seriously; acryllic paints are just so much better and a huge step forwards. It is different to use, but when you get use to it, you don't want back. Way less toxic, way cheaper and you clean the airbrush simply with water! And most say; yeah, but you need a airbrush and compressor and it is expensive; think about it! The rattlecans go crazy now in prices and for 200 dollars one can buy a airbrush with compressor or just 20 rattlecans that last like 20 cars if lucky. Just my 2 eurocents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skmodelcars Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I had mold line ghosting on a CheZoom body a few years back. They showed up after I primed with rattlecan Plastikote primer. I ground the areas with a Dremel carbide. I filled with a mixture of Tenax and sprue. Still need to file and do final bodywork... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Not in the near future Jim. Lately, I'm just not in the building mood........not to mention, got a lot going on in the family right now. Maybe later on when I get over this slump......... Remember you have a lot of fans and friends, Bill, so we are always here when you are ready. Take good care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Remember you have a lot of fans and friends, Bill, so we are always here when you are ready. Take good care. Dc; that was over a year ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roncla Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) I have found spraying a coat of isolator to be the best way of eliminating ghosting. I've been using a product for years now called Barcoat which has given me excellent results. Another option is BIN Primer Sealer. These products simply stop the hot solvents in the paint from getting through to the plastic. http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/80/barcoat™-quick-drying-isolator.htm http://www.hex.co.uk...pol/barcoat.pdf Edited February 10, 2012 by Roncla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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