tyrone Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 that looks really slick there Rom..... fantastic job buddy....
Mister Twister Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Outstanding Rom and glad to see you are going with the open chutes!
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 Paint looks amazing Rom, what kind of clear is that? Its Dupont Acrylic clear, its exspensive but I feel its worth it!
Mooneyzs Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Rom.... that car looks beautiful with the clear on it. Great work man!! I am loving it!!!
MoparWoman Jamie Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Rom, I been following this build sense day 1, an man all I can say is "wow" man! Your doing one mighty fine build here.
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 Thanks for the supports fellas. Im glad that part is out of the way, The paint has been on my mind since day 1, because no matter how good the model is built and no matter how much detail you add, If the paint fails the entire model fails. So I should have the build assembled completely within a week or so just finishing touches to add and polish the paint.
gasser59 Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) Shiny candy....nothin' better. Man that paint really glistens. Fantastic job all around Rom. Looking forward to seeing the chutes all done up. What will you be using for the deployed chute base? Will you be scratchbuilding them? Edited March 28, 2012 by gasser59
W-409 Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Huh, that looks amazing. Paintjob is better before polishing, than my paintjob after polishing. I really like this build, I keep watching for more to come.
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 Shiny candy....nothin' better. Man that paint really glistens. Fantastic job all around Rom. Looking forward to seeing the chutes all done up. What will you be using for the deployed chute base? Will you be scratchbuilding them? The chute base has already been made (and yes I scratch built them you can find that a few pages back) I just have to open the chute packs back up and run the lines.
Dragracer Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Can't wait to see this car all done & on the display case, it's just an awesome build Rom, you did good!
jmpsebring Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Romell, I'm almost think'n the paint part of this and future questions, tips could/should be a thread for hi-tech paints. I'm pretty sure , Ca has different greener rules for paints. I have Zero's 2K clear (a guy in the UK that bottles pro-paints in matching F1,Euro team colors) and figured it would be perfect for clear-coating. I understand keeping with one brand is smart, but don't most shops across the country usually spray the same clear on everything they paint? They will use the same system(clear/hardner/reducer) but 2K clear is 2K clear (Or am I wrong? ?.) I would guess that HOK 2k clear is made by someone else. I recieved my HOK paints this morning and it does make me wonder if I should switch to a current 2k primer too. I like chemical drying! I use Tamiya can primer and while it's a great primer, it's very $$$. Did you use spray-bomb can primer? I'm getting my supplies from TCP global in SanDiego. Prices are good and they even have cheap striping tapes, masks, papers,etc. Also found a company called uline that makes everything for shipping/containing things. I bought 24 2oz glass bottles with lids. Should last me for years. Don't mean to change the thread...but it is related to what your doing. Plus the jack's, chutes and Jacket are all looking great!
Dr. Cranky Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Its Dupont Acrylic clear, its exspensive but I feel its worth it! That's what I always use, Rom. It's a great clear:
eviltwincustoms Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 Romell, I'm almost think'n the paint part of this and future questions, tips could/should be a thread for hi-tech paints. I'm pretty sure , Ca has different greener rules for paints. I have Zero's 2K clear (a guy in the UK that bottles pro-paints in matching F1,Euro team colors) and figured it would be perfect for clear-coating. I understand keeping with one brand is smart, but don't most shops across the country usually spray the same clear on everything they paint? They will use the same system(clear/hardner/reducer) but 2K clear is 2K clear (Or am I wrong? ?.) I would guess that HOK 2k clear is made by someone else. I recieved my HOK paints this morning and it does make me wonder if I should switch to a current 2k primer too. I like chemical drying! I use Tamiya can primer and while it's a great primer, it's very $$$. Did you use spray-bomb can primer? I'm getting my supplies from TCP global in SanDiego. Prices are good and they even have cheap striping tapes, masks, papers,etc. Also found a company called uline that makes everything for shipping/containing things. I bought 24 2oz glass bottles with lids. Should last me for years. Don't mean to change the thread...but it is related to what your doing. Plus the jack's, chutes and Jacket are all looking great! Most shops will use the same Clear with the same paint company. Such as DuPont paint they will most likely use DuPont ChromaClear. As with anything it is really about the chemicals in the clear coat not crazing and messing up your paint you laid down. This is why most will just stay with the same company they are using for base coats. As for primer same thing here you don't want to lay down a primer that will not work with your base coat or you will end up with issues in the end. I have gotten a little lazy and have been using Paint Bomb Auto Primer under my DuPont and House of Kolor base coats and it works fine no issues. The big thing is that using an auto primer, it is much thinner or you can mix to whatever consistency you need to spray at. With another plus you can use a faster drying reducer and move things along or slow down the drying time with a slower reducer. As for Clear's HOK doesn't make a 2K Clear..... You either have USC01 Kosmic Urethane Show Klear which is a fine polymer clear coat with a very high D.O.I (Distinctness of Image) for a high gloss shine. USCC01 - Kosmic Acrylic Urethane Kustom Klear - this is a middle ground clear coat and easy to buff out but yet hardens and becomes pretty tough. Then you have your Urethane/Polyurethane Enamels I have went to the TPC site a few times, but find Coast Airbrush a much better place and paint is cheaper, PLUS they also will mix it already reduced or you can reduce the paint yourself.
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 Romell, I'm almost think'n the paint part of this and future questions, tips could/should be a thread for hi-tech paints. I'm pretty sure , Ca has different greener rules for paints. I have Zero's 2K clear (a guy in the UK that bottles pro-paints in matching F1,Euro team colors) and figured it would be perfect for clear-coating. I understand keeping with one brand is smart, but don't most shops across the country usually spray the same clear on everything they paint? They will use the same system(clear/hardner/reducer) but 2K clear is 2K clear (Or am I wrong? ?.) I would guess that HOK 2k clear is made by someone else. I recieved my HOK paints this morning and it does make me wonder if I should switch to a current 2k primer too. I like chemical drying! I use Tamiya can primer and while it's a great primer, it's very $$$. Did you use spray-bomb can primer? I'm getting my supplies from TCP global in SanDiego. Prices are good and they even have cheap striping tapes, masks, papers,etc. Also found a company called uline that makes everything for shipping/containing things. I bought 24 2oz glass bottles with lids. Should last me for years. Don't mean to change the thread...but it is related to what your doing. Plus the jack's, chutes and Jacket are all looking great! I believe Bart pretty much summed up your questions but I will add this Jack. I use alot of differant paints and paint combinations, true i do enjoy and prefer HOK , but I use what it best for the project at hand. for instance. I used auto primer on this project because i could use it on brass as well as all the other materials I used in this build, Of course HOK was my paint of choice for thier brillant colors, and the clear I chose soley because I need a clear that would not flash too hot and ruin my decals, and would still be compatible with the HOK paints. Im by no means an expert on the chemical compounds that make up the paint , but I am a good resercher and Im not affraid to ask a friend or two for thier opion.
jmpsebring Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 I too buy from Costal and Dick Blick depending on the item. On big bodies, the airbrush is not critical. In fact acouple of my brushes are too small for 1/16th. Even wide open. That Dupont clear in a can might be a great product for large surfaces. At least it's clean paint. Looking forward to a review Romell...ie; decal recaction, gloss, hardness, drying time.
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 Im not tottally convienced that these look like deployed chutes and unless I can convince myself of that I wont be using them. What do you think?
vintagedragfan Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) I think they look awesome Rom! I like em!! and I think you out done yourself on the paint job, looks fantastic!!! Edited March 28, 2012 by vintagedragfan
stulee11 Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 i like them... But i think it would look better if you could make them so they look like they are holdin the air he ya get what i mean... Open as if there actually stopping the car .
brett Posted March 28, 2012 Posted March 28, 2012 maybe some dullcoat? the shape and placement look good but the texture or surface look way to shiny nothing really like they should as in the finish, the rest of the build however, wow dude, I think you have outdone not only yourself but everyone else on here that paint is something special. Good luck with finding the solution to the chutes, I think it will be worth the effort.
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 maybe some dullcoat? the shape and placement look good but the texture or surface look way to shiny nothing really like they should as in the finish, the rest of the build however, wow dude, I think you have outdone not only yourself but everyone else on here that paint is something special. Good luck with finding the solution to the chutes, I think it will be worth the effort. Yeah they'll defanitly get dullcoat if I decied to keep em. I still have to do the shadowing and add a few decals , And thanks for your compliment Brett
Romell R Posted March 28, 2012 Author Posted March 28, 2012 i like them... But i think it would look better if you could make them so they look like they are holdin the air he ya get what i mean... Open as if there actually stopping the car . yeah I can that going over well with the car sitting on jacks it the pit area ...LOL! thanks for your input my friend.
MoparWoman Jamie Posted March 29, 2012 Posted March 29, 2012 Rom, you did one mighty fine job on the build, but the chutes look to gloss and to clean, and to much like glass. LOL here is a suggestion man, maybe try using some fabric for the making of the chutes and see how fabric looks. I think it would look more realistic in the long run. But I'm not trying to tell you want to do, oinly given a suggestion is all.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now