Been asked to judge the Dutch IPMS Nationals

[The Creative Explorer]

I got today a e-mail that I am invited to judge the car-category's of the Dutch IPMS Nationals over 2 weeks. I've never done such a thing before and I have no idea what I should be doing.

Are there members over here that judged before and know what the pitfalls are and what to look for?

I also already entered 7 cars in the contest, but obviously I am not coming near those during the judging....

Edited October 8, 2011 by The Creative Explorer

[jeffs396]

Congrats Erik!

You'll do fine, they asked you because they know how well you build cars! The others will be looking to you for advice in what to be looking for. Have an herbal cigarette before the show to calm your nerves

[Dr. Cranky]

Have fun and enjoy the eye candy.

[bigphoto]

Here is the basic criteria for IPMS Judging in the Automotive Category. Also remember that any model vying for "out of the Box needs to have the intruction sheet present with model.

Automotive

Basic Construction

1. Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, and

similar molding flaws eliminated.

2. Seams filled if not found on the actual vehicle. (This is

especially important on the car’s body. Rubberized kit

tires usually also have a mold seam that must be

removed.)

3. Contour errors corrected.

4. Gaps between body and chassis eliminated as

applicable.

5. Detailing removed while accomplishing the above

steps restored to a level consistent with the rest of the

model.

6. Alignment:

A. Where applicable, external items (e.g., mirrors,

exhaust pipes) aligned symmetrically.

B. Internal items (e.g., seats, some engine/drive

components) aligned properly.

C. Wheels: All wheels touching the ground and

aligned properly when viewed from front or rear of

the vehicle. If turned, front wheels should be

aligned in the same direction.

7. Windshields and other clear areas:

A. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or

finishing coats.

B. Gaps between windshield, windows, or other clear

parts eliminated where applicable.

C. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free.

Detailing

1. Parts that are thick, over-scale, or coarse should be

thinned, modified, or replaced.

2. Exhausts, intakes, vents, and other objects that have

openings should be opened.

3. Additional detailing added to the vehicle should be as

close to scale as possible. Such items could include

door-lock buttons, tire valve stems, dashboard gauge

detail, fabric surfaces on interior components, etc.

Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin,

etc.) should integrate well with the basic model.

Photo-etched parts that require forming should be

precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require

building up to a thicker cross-section should be

smooth and uniform.

4. Engine and chassis detailing should be done to a

level consistent with detailing on the rest of the model.

5. Working parts, if any (e.g., opening hoods or doors),

should match the level of workmanship on the rest of

the model. Such parts should operate realistically, and

the operating mechanism(s) should be in scale if

visible.

Painting and finishing

1. The model’s surface, once painted, should show no

signs of the construction process (glue, file, or

sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities

between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.).

2. Finish should be even and smooth, unless

irregularities in the actual vehicle’s finish are being

duplicated. Such irregularities should be documented.

A. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc.

B. No “orange-peel” or “eggshell” effect; no

“powdering” in recessed areas.

C. No random differences in sheen of finish caused

by misapplication of final clear coats.

3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be

sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking).

Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered

should be in scale and without overspray.

4. Chrome parts should be correctly represented and

should be just as free of surface blemishes and

evidences of the construction process as the painted

components.

5. Weathering: Although weathering is gaining more

acceptance in the automotive ranks, especially with

some trucks and certain types of racing cars (such as

the Rally types), it is not standard practice. Most auto

modelers build what is considered a “show” car or

restored car, and because of this, weathering will be

the exception rather than the rule. If present, however,

weathering should show concern for scale, be in

accordance with the conditions in which the real

vehicle was operating, and be consistent throughout

the model.

6. Decals:

A. Decals should be aligned properly. This is

especially important for racing subjects.

B. Water-slide decals should show no evidence of

silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film

should be eliminated or hidden to make the

markings appear painted o

[Harry P.]

I got today a e-mail that I am invited to judge the car-category's of the Dutch IPMS Nationals over 2 weeks. I've never done such a thing before and I have no idea what I should be doing.

Kind of makes me wonder why you were asked to be a judge...

[The Creative Explorer]

Thanks guys for the response.

@Jeff, I don't smoke, so that won't work. But I am not stressing out, I am not worried about that.

@Dr: don't worry, I will ;-)

@Bigphoto; thanks that is helpful! I've read it now a couple of times

@Harry; me too haha, I think I know why, last year I wasn't satisfied with the outcome of the contest, I missed continuïty, (it had nothing to do with my own entry's) and I gave them some respectfull critique. Appearantly it was taken the right way and now I can "put my ....( dont know that word hehe) where my mouth is".