Dr. Cranky Posted February 24, 2012 Author Posted February 24, 2012 Ryan, that might not work because you'd be moving the pearls around with the brush.
Ryan S. Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 That was my thought too. I'd love to do a spoon test and see so I might still grab them when I've got a coupon and nothing else to buy!
Dr. Cranky Posted February 24, 2012 Author Posted February 24, 2012 Give it a try, but I think the best way is to airbrush them on lightly, let the pearl coat dry and THEN put on a Future-only coat for the final gloss.
Kustom Rodder Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 Thanks for sharing the how to Doc i will be tryin this stuff for sure. Could a how to dvd be in your future?
scalenut Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 awesome stuff , I'm sure it's easy to go overboard , so I am thinking, moderation is the key
Dr. Cranky Posted February 25, 2012 Author Posted February 25, 2012 Andy, you are absolutely right. Which is why I put in a little at a time just to see how the subtle changes occur, then once I like it, it's ready to be sprayed.
seeker589 Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 It works great with Tamiya acrylics also. What mixing ratio do you use. I painted a body with Tamiya acrylics thinned with alcohol some time ago and was very discouraged with the results. My next project will use Reverend Yost's method. Preach-on brother!
Dave Ambrose Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 I love Bug-eye (Frog eye in the UK) Sprites. That's the nicest model of one I've ever seen. Thank you......
59 Impala Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks Dave. This one I rebuilt from a glue bomb. It's the Lindberg kit, not very detailed, but was worth saving in my eyes I thought. Dan
59 Impala Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) Virgil, I have mixed the pearls in Future and then sprayed it on the kit. It works great in either Future or another clear. I've also expiermented with it by mixing it in the color but haven't had to good a result doing it that way. I also think that if you brushed it on it would just streak and look terrible. Dan Edited February 25, 2012 by 59 Impala
Dr. Cranky Posted February 25, 2012 Author Posted February 25, 2012 Dan, yes, you are right and it's also what Donn warned me about, and that is NOT to mix it directly into the color because the color will swallow it up. It's best to apply with the clear, which is what I do, and it's the results you want. Glad to hear you re getting good results with Future. Best, DC
wisdonm Posted June 20, 2012 Posted June 20, 2012 Doc, do you decant 7480S to mix P-X in or does it dry too fast? If not 7480S, which clear do you mix P-X in?
Dr. Cranky Posted June 21, 2012 Author Posted June 21, 2012 No, I am talking about the clear I use with HOK. With enamel I just go with enamel clear, the Testor's brand.
Junkman Posted June 21, 2012 Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) Despite the valiant efforts of Dr. Cranky and a few others, this thread still contains way too many words and too few pictures. I want to see some shiny colourful stuff, please. Edited June 21, 2012 by Junkman
CadillacPat Posted June 22, 2012 Posted June 22, 2012 this thread still contains way too many words and too few pictures. Pictures are always a plus But, I'm one who enjoys the effort someone puts into a lengthy well written explanation. CadillacPat
Tony T Posted June 23, 2012 Posted June 23, 2012 Just read back through this thread...terrific content but too few pictures!
LoneWolf15 Posted June 24, 2012 Posted June 24, 2012 Just read back through this thread...terrific content but too few pictures! T , once Doc gets settled back in , he might add some more for you ! Lol !
cchapman195 Posted July 1, 2012 Posted July 1, 2012 I am working on a few models that will be done within the next week. I will post some pics of shiny's for those that would like more pics.
revshag Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 I've used Donn's method and had great results. Here's a pic of my results. I used the aluminum metalizer for the primer and Valspar spray paint (decanted). I didn't clear coat or color sand. Chris PS I also won a small contest with this build thanks to Donn.
scalenut Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 wow nice job ! one question , is the aluminum base a must do for all colors with Donn's process ? that's the only thing I still have to get.
LoneWolf15 Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors .
Monty Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 No ! I use the metallizer under the metallics and pearls only . Standard colors are shot directly onto the bare plastic . The metallizer acts as a reflector for the metallics and pearls which isn't necessary when using your basic colors . Obviously it's hard to argue with your results, but I'm curious why you spray solid colors directly onto bare plastic instead of using a primer. If nothing else, primers have helped me spot body flaws I might've otherwise missed.
Dr. Cranky Posted July 6, 2012 Author Posted July 6, 2012 I will have some new eye candy of a sweet truck Donn is working on and just sent me pictures of soon. Stay tuned in. Glad to see this thread is still alive and kicking.
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