Sixx Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 Harry, if this isn't the right spot, could you move it? Thanks man. I use ACME Finish 1 urethane clear. I get it by the qt.-clear, 8oz for the hardner, & also use a qt. of reducer. Been using this for a long time with excellent results. My problem is that the hardner gels before I can use the whole 8oz. !!!!!! I've used that stuff called " Bloxygen " to repel any air in the can...to avoid things like this, but that doesn't work very well. I always keep the cap on tight. Does anyone know how to keep this from happening????? This stuff is getting too expensive for this to occur as much as it has the past several years! Thanks for your responses.
B-onefan Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 Most urethane hardners are designed to be used within 2 weeks after opening. They start reacting when opened and exposed to air and moisture. Very seldom does a paint shop have the hardner around that long. I used to show my students about closing the hardner good by taking a small amount of hardner only, no paint or clear, and adding 1-2 drops of water and checking it the next day. It also drove home the point about wearing eye protection of a full face mask when spraying, since the eyes are mostly water and attract the hardner.
scalenut Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) I keep my cans tops covered with glad press-n-seal over the caps and part way down the cans ,I have some 5 year old 2 part uros,, so far so good . The shop I got it from say's it can go 25 years and still be fine. I'm using Matrix ms-52 Edited January 10, 2012 by scalenut
Scale-Master Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 It sounds you are taking the proper precautions, but it is part of the nature of urethane hardeners, I often have to toss the last little bit of hardener when I'm just doing models, never have the problem with full size cars... The Matrix hardener, I have to admit, seems to last longer than all of the other materials I have worked with including acrylic enamels. I have been able to extend the shelf life by sealing the can and sealing that in a Zip-Lock freezer bag with as little air as possible, and storing it in the refrigerator. The key is to wait for it to come to room temperature BEFORE cracking the zip-lock seal. Otherwise you will add that detrimental moisture and do more harm than good.
Sixx Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 Thanks for the replies, man, I must be getting junk, but it has worked for me flawlessly, paint-wise. Just the deal with keeping it fresh!
Lownslow Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 It sounds you are taking the proper precautions, but it is part of the nature of urethane hardeners, I often have to toss the last little bit of hardener when I'm just doing models, never have the problem with full size cars... The Matrix hardener, I have to admit, seems to last longer than all of the other materials I have worked with including acrylic enamels. I have been able to extend the shelf life by sealing the can and sealing that in a Zip-Lock freezer bag with as little air as possible, and storing it in the refrigerator. The key is to wait for it to come to room temperature BEFORE cracking the zip-lock seal. Otherwise you will add that detrimental moisture and do more harm than good. im using matrix urethane and im also on the last bit i shot some nitrogen in there for good measure.
scalenut Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) I shot this with the 5 yr old Matrix over the weekend(over orange peeled createx ) , needs some buffing out and brightwork finished, just wanted to get it done.and the weather was nice I totally botched the flames so I kinda lost interest in doing a high end finish Edited January 10, 2012 by scalenut
Scale-Master Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 You say five year old Matrix, is that five year old hardener too?
MikeMc Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 An old solvent trick.....clean the lid and top throughly and invert the whole thing. I do this with my Floquil paints and they are perfect after years. With hardener, shoot a bit of nitrogen or your inert gas before sealing and tipping.....Try it you might be surprised. I did this to some Floquil paints I bought in the late 80's.....just "found" them this year...no thinner was needed!! YES CAT AND HARDENER ARE DIFFERENT THAN FLOQUIL.....
Scale-Master Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 An old solvent trick.....clean the lid and top throughly and invert the whole thing. I do this with my Floquil paints and they are perfect after years. With hardener, shoot a bit of nitrogen or your inert gas before sealing and tipping.....Try it you might be surprised. I did this to some Floquil paints I bought in the late 80's.....just "found" them this year...no thinner was needed!! YES CAT AND HARDENER ARE DIFFERENT THAN FLOQUIL..... That is an excellent way to permanently affix the the lid to the container. I have been using 25 year old Floquil recently and that trick can work for it, but it is certainly not the best way to store urethane hardener, unless you don't mind breaking into the container.
scalenut Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 You say five year old Matrix, is that five year old hardener too? yep ... the same resin and hardener I bought 5 years ago. I keep it stored indoors on a closet shelf with the press -n-seal over the tops of the cans. if it was left in the garage or shed it would probably be toast by now.
Scale-Master Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 yep ... the same resin and hardener I bought 5 years ago. I keep it stored indoors on a closet shelf with the press -n-seal over the tops of the cans. if it was left in the garage or shed it would probably be toast by now. Cool, dark and dry, the best climate for the stuff.
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