1/16th-Scale Drag Racing Photo Etch Ideas-Info Update 7/18/12

[eviltwincustoms]

Scott, I received my Mark Williams catalogue and it has the 1:1 dimensions for the proper 4 link brackets for the 11" modular rear end if interested in making them for 1/16. I am using the measurements currently to make some out of brass for my Camaro.

[futurattraction]

That would be cool... It is my intention to get back on this project one of these days, but have had too many other irons in the fire lately to devote any real time, effort, or thought to it.

[stump]

Man, still so many great ideas flowing into this......brilliant !

Scott, all in good time mate, great planning doesn't happen over night dude. When it happens, it will be worth waiting for.

[futurattraction]

Thanks Greg. I've been trying to spend a bit of time thinking through some of the details. As stated above, too many things going on right now to invest as much time as it deserves... LOL

[futurattraction]

I'm just trying to get ideas for Dzus mounting plate options. There are different styles available. The picture I'm attaching shows the ones I've drawn up. What makes the most sense - offering a variety pack of everything? Individual styles? Mixed plates, like two styles to a package? Looking for ideas/feedback. This is really regardless of scale. Oh, the red lines indicate an etch line or detail.

[blackbeard]

scott just like what you have in the picture will be great

[Len Woodruff]

Looks accurate to me! Hopefully you can do them in several scales.

[Prostreet]

scott just like what you have in the picture will be great

X2

[eviltwincustoms]

You know Scott, even a sheet of different brackets would be cool. This way you could mix and match and just use what you need off of a sheet.

[futurattraction]

My plan, as of now, is to to make plates, all of one style, along with the self-ejecting style of button/retainer. I will also offer an assortment made up of everything except the unlightened plates. It was pointed out to me, and rightly so, that anyone building a car where lightened plates are being used will in all likelihood use all lightened plates. As of now, I'm figuring the single-plate sets will contain 60-ish plates and 84 buttons/retainers. I'm not sure what the assortment set will contain yet.

Edited April 11, 2012 by futurattraction

[blackbeard]

scott that sounds great

[Bonekrosha]

More of a wish list than anything..

Injector stacks in different heights.

Air cleaners of different diameters with the mesh inserts like your 1/24-25th scale ones (Custom & Edelbrock)

Velocity stacks for the Dukes/Street Charger Holley Dominator Carbs with and without air filters/tops.

Conversion top to make a cross ram out of the Dukes single-carb NASCAR intake with linkage, Holley carbs (when they changed from Carters to I think 600 cfm Holleys), & short velocity stacks.

Shoot, just make al your 1/24th-25th scale stuff in 1/16th )))))))))))))))))))

[midengineaddict]

4 or 5 shifter kit for lenco tranny including reverse andle and every brackets can be a good idea.

Edited April 12, 2012 by midengineaddict

[stump]

Scott, they look fantabulous to me.

And I think someone mentioned in Dave's Camaro build about the crank trigger ring....? That may come in very handy.

Also thought (even though easy to make) of some "generic style" levers. Chute levers for example ??

[eviltwincustoms]

Scott, I know you have been busy on a lot of different things. Any updates for us detail nuts?

Edited April 29, 2012 by eviltwincustoms

[futurattraction]

Hey Bart,

Sorry I didn't get a response a bit sooner, but you've already said why... LOL I've got a bit of news to report. As you know from talking off the board in the past, I've got some stuff drawn up. I'm in the process of getting many of those pieces laid out in the dimension format that my PE folks do. I'm hoping to get a couple of separate orders submitted very shortly. The first, I'm hoping to do this week or early next. For the larger scale builders, the things of interest will be 1/16th and 1/12th scale stainless steel Dzus self-ejecting fasteners. The stainless will be .004" and everything is rubber-backed so it'll be easy to get them ready to apply. Also in that same order will be window bezels, such as you've seen drawn up already. Also in that order will be a ruler/center-to-center guide for 1/25th and 1/16th scale. It can be used as a ruler and/or as a center-to-center hole marking template. My plan is for it to have overall dimensions of 1"x.5" and will be marked on each side. If somebody thinks there is a better way to do this, I'm more than willing to entertain thoughts. I suppose I could do a 1" square ruler and have 1/25, 1/16, 1/12 and 1/8 on each side. Anyways, I'll see what anybody thinks of this and go from there. I plan to then work on a .016" nickel-silver plate which will be entirely made up of pieces that in 1:1 scale would be 1/4" thick stuff, like hand brake levers, butterly steering wheels, pedals, parachute and fuel shut-off levers. Also in the works will be disc brake rotors, which could get added onto the .016 order possibly. Let me know what you guys/gals think, especially on the ruler/hole guide.

Scott

[eviltwincustoms]

Thanks Scott for the update... you know how I feel about the parts already from our discussions. It looks like you decided not to go with the Multimedia route then for the Brake leavers and butterfly wheel and the T Handles for the Dual NOS bracket?

So am I reading this right about the ruler, it is marked off in 1" increments C2C for each scale? What is the overall length of this ruler going to be? Is it then just 1" x 1" (in 1:1)? This might be kinda cool because it would tell you where to drill Holes for window screws for Lexan windows or rivets on trailers and such... so I think it is a great idea. In fact I wouldn't mind seeing it actually in a longer length.

For those building 1/16 scale if the ruler would be at least 7.1875" C2C this would give everyone a Center 2 Center layout for a 115" wheelbase for a Pro Mod build and they could go down from their based on NHRA Pro Mod, Pro Stock and so on you would have something written in the center saying which points would be for what wheel base... Just a though.

[Mooneyzs]

Yes... Thank you Scott for the update on the parts you are going to be doing for us 1/16th guys. I know as soon as you get these parts done I will be placing an order for sure. I totally can't wait for the butterfly steering wheels as well as the brake and parachute levers. Perfect timing for you to be doing these since I need them for my Funny Car build.

I really like Bart's idea as well for the the 1/16th scale ruler. The little ruler is totally sweet too. I can't wait til these parts are made. Thank you Scott for all of your hard work and effort being put into these for all of us model builders.

[stump]

For those building 1/16 scale if the ruler would be at least 7.1875" C2C this would give everyone a Center 2 Center layout for a 115" wheelbase for a Pro Mod build and they could go down from their based on NHRA Pro Mod, Pro Stock and so on you would have something written in the center saying which points would be for what wheel base... Just a though.

Bart makes a very good point Scott, this would be ultra kool. Save me converting to metric from 115" to suit my rule.

But man.....I am in LOVE with everything you have drawn up so far Scott. Great work mate.

I can see I'll require those Dzuz sets in both 1/16 and 1/12.

[futurattraction]

Thanks for your encouragement, guys. I really appreciate it.

Bart - My thoughts right now on the multi-media idea is this. I trust you saw that I've included grips for the hand brake and butterfly wheels - just not in resin. The modern examples that these parts are more or less modeled after all appear to have anodized finishes for the detail pieces. Believe me, after casting as many sets of small resin parts for 1/25th as I have, even with the relatively young "age" of my business, fiddling with those pieces to clean them up so edges are crisp, can be a challenge. So, anything that can be done to create realistic parts, whether in resin or PE, is what I'm going after right now. If they're painted, I'd think you shouldn't be able to tell the difference. The PE will be perfectly clean and sharp with no cleanup on anyone's part. The other thing is, I would have made the grips in PE, then made molds off them anyway, so this is actually quicker, simpler, and cheaper (in terms of my time) packaging the PE grips with the main piece. If a builder wants to create the appearance of something a bit more old school, I'd imagine the grips could be painted in black to replicate a black resin-type of grip. Anyway, those are my thoughts on that particular subject.

I can certainly make a longer ruler that would work for your wheelbase and/or larger dimensions idea. The main reason I did such a compact version is simply because it'll be less cumbersome to work with for small parts. There may be times when smaller is better, however IF your desk is anything like mine, a small one will also be much easier to misplace! LOL Yes - the hole spacing/drilling idea was something someone else had suggested and I thought it made lots of sense to have some type of hole guide. The hole spacing is a scale half-inch and the holes with alternating lines drawn to the edge are obviously one scale inch. The centerline of the holes is also one scale half-inch off the edge. I'll draw something up that is eight inches in length and it can be marked like the small example above with emphasis marks every 5 or 10 scale inches, and a special notation at the 115" mark. Here's a new question: would you mark the other side in 1/25th, like what I've done above, or go with 1/12th, or what?

Let me know.

Edited May 2, 2012 by futurattraction

[futurattraction]

Oh, another thing I failed to mention earlier is that Dave (comp1839) told me that the most accurate brake rotor diameters, as used on most 1:1 Pro Mod teams, is either a 9.5" or 10" front. He also suggested, for the sake of fitting with the least amount of hassle when it comes to adapting to rear wheels in our scale models, that an 11" rear diameter would be the safest size, to which I agree completely. As an aside, he mentioned that all NHRA pro classes, i.e., P/S, P/M, F/C, and dragsters are required to run CF rotors and pads, which don't have any venting in them and may actually be considerably thicker than 1/4" - even up into the area of 1/2"! I like the appearance of the drilled holes or slotted rotors, but IF we want to do "high end" builds we may have resign ourselves to using plain rotors.

What is anybody's view on that rotor details, such as drilled or slotted vents?

[eviltwincustoms]

Scott on the ruler, I have to agree some times smaller is better but it sounds like you and I both have the same issue. I have noticed with having 2 projects going I am starting to lose parts for some time and having to search all over to find them. My thought was having this longer not only for wheel base set up but putting it directly on the plastic windows to mark out the holes for rivets.

With that said you could do every scale 1/2" or 1", what ever makes sense. Do this for a specific length then go to every 1" or 1 1/2" kind of like you would see a scale ruler. Then the user could go back and use what part of the ruler they needed for hole placement, with the ultimate end result of the wheel base C2C.

Myself, I say go for what is currently being used... so if it is Carbon then we just have a solid one. Now I would assume that the front rotor then would still be steel correct?

But then again, I am only one single builder, so I would like to hear from others.

[Prostreet]

Awesome work so far Scott.

[comp1839]

scott, these look great! makes me want to build in 1/16 scale! in case you want to know. the window bezels, if you draw them up with a 5.5" i.d. would make great exhausts bezels on the fenders also. kind of a 2-fer.

as far as the brakes go. today, the NHRA mandates carbon brakes in all the pro catagories. other sanctioning bodies may or may not dictate their use. i'm only telling you what the NHRA mandates. steel rotors with slots and holes are still used in a lot of applications. so, if scott can do all of them, that's a bonus. that's his call.

bart, if you have 4 wheel brakes. you wouldn't run carbon brakes on one axle. either all or none. they brake totally different than conventional brakes and would be a severe hazard.

any questions? please ask.

[futurattraction]

Thanks for your input and encouragement, Bart and Joe!

Dave: The 2-fer bezel suggestion is a great one. If a part can have multiple uses, that's all the better. Thanks, too, for elaborating on the brake rules in the NHRA and other sanctions. I've been meaning to e-mail you... What kind of material thickness is typical of that window mounting tab you drew up? I'm not sure what thickness material I need to lay that out on when the time comes. Are those mild steel, chrome-moly, or what on 1:1s?