would love to see pics of "can painted" models

[Pete J.]

Agreed, there is no perfect paint job, But for the purpose of painting a model car, harry does quite alright with a simple spray can.

My point was, an air brush is not necessarily the only avenue to progress.

 

Steve

Steve in two rather long posts that is exactly my point. An airbrush and a rattle can are both just tools.  The magic is in the magician, not the wand.   Like any tool though, there are pros and cons.  I felt I gave that a fair go in my first post.  Not all the advantages are in the outcome.  Some involve ease of use and cost, both long term and short term.

  I think I mentioned that I have four airbrushes and several hundred rattle cans.  Four airbrushes because each is designed to do a different thing from wide swaths of paint to very thin lines.  Rattle cans because they can be very quick and efficient. I can do everything I do with a rattle can, with an air brush.  I can not do everything I do with an airbrush with a rattle can.

  There are subtle techniques that just require an airbrush, mostly involving very thin paint and very little paint sprayed. The picture I posted with it's shadowing and depth is an excellent example of this.  Now a painting of this type could be done on the side of a building with rattle cans but it would be very difficult to replicate on a small canvas without an air brush. It could also be done with pencils in very small scale.

 As a builder you choose the skills and tools that suit your ends.  I would never suggest that every builder should own and use an air brush any more that I would suggest every home would be incomplete without a full complement of fine wood working tools.  My point was at some point if a modeler wants to do certain things like subtle shading and very fine painting, an air brush is necessary.  Building in that style is a choice and having the tools that go along with it is part of that choice.

[Harry P.]

You can get an excellent finish using either aerosol cans or an AB. What the AB gives you that cans just don't is total control over the spray. With an AB (double action) you can control the air-to-paint ratio, something that can come in handy when doing certain types of painting. Obviously with a can you are at the mercy of the manufacturer. Some spray cans put out a fine spray, others a more coarse spray... but in any case you can't really control it.

But with more control comes more variables, and more chance for error. Once you get the hang of airbrushing, you'll probably prefer it to using a can... but that's not to say that you can't get a nice finish using a spray can.

And of course there's the cost and convenience aspect. A can of spray paint costs a couple of bucks, and you can't beat the convenience. A good AB setup (airbrush, hose, fittings and hardware, moisture trap, compressor) will run you hundreds of $$$... an initial investment that many modelers are unwilling to make (or just can't make). And then there's the mixing and thinning of the paint, and the cleanup after every color... another hassle many people just don't want to deal with.

[Johnt671]

More pictured.

Duplicolor and Rust-oleum clear

70' paint job. Testors with Testors clear. The specks are dust.

Duplicolor and Future.

Rust-oleum semi gloss.

Duplicolor and Future

Edited November 6, 2016 by Johnt671
Duplcate pictures

[moparfarmer]

As in the real car world, airbrush or can can look good with a little finesse after the final clear or top coat..Some wetsanding and polish will make any paint job perfect...I use 2000 wet, then Meguiar's Cleaner/Scratch X 2.0 then follow up with Meguiar's Gold Class paste..You can go with finer wet/dry but I have luck going to 2000..

[Sledsel]

Testors black and orange enamel, no clear and Plastikote odds-n-ends periwinkle, no clear

[Gt fan]

Tamiya paint . Met. Orange with gold under base and racing blue with silver under basebase

[Pete J.]

While we are on the subject of paint job, I am going to start a little side bar here and say something that some may be offended by.  When I look at these pictures there are some great paint jobs here.  Now here comes the bad part.  Some are mediocre paint jobs also.  In the interest of not calling anyone out I will not suggest which ones.  Instead, I will go into what makes a great paint job.  The easiest way to critique a paint job is to look at the reflections in the paint.  The perfect glossy paint job will reflect light very evenly and the reflections will have perfectly straight lines that follow the flow of the body panels.  Reflections will be very clean in line.  This is a result of an absolutely level top coat.  Often this is accomplished by sanding it level and polishing it to get rid of all scratches.  You can also see unevenness or ripples in the reflections where paint may accumulate, such as build up at panel lines or edges.  The reflection should not distort around  these areas.  Orange peel is the worst of the distortions.  You can have a high gloss finish that looks really shiny but the bumps in the paint will distort the reflection.  None of this is a result of air brush or rattle can, but lack of technique in painting period.  My point is that if we are going to talk about paint, it is a good idea to know what makes a paint job great. 

Because I was willing to open my mouth on this subject and I will not call anyone else out,  I am going to post a couple of photos of a build I just did.  It was a club build project and a quick build.  This will never see a contest table because of the problems with the paint job that I just don't choose to correct.  See if you can see what I do that makes it unacceptable.  I have a thick skin so I will take no offence and any of the comment unless you get personal!

[Cool Hand]

As always Tamiya TS-14 black.

 

Although this build was wet sanded with 6000-12000. Then polished with the following Meguiars products in the order they are shown..

Not surprised this topic has turned into the usual measuring contest by the same old suspects  

Edited November 7, 2016 by Cool Hand

[Ace-Garageguy]

Not surprised this topic has turned into the usual measuring contest by the same old suspects  

Why the need for the snide sideways personal remarks?

Seems like it's always the "same old suspects" who have to start throwing that carp around.

I personally don't see any "measuring contest" going on here.

What I DO see is some valid points about understanding the difference between average work and good work and exceptional work.

People can't get better at anything if they fail to notice or understand the differences between levels of competence, or if they pretend in the fashionable PC way that every level of performance is identical and of equal value. It's just not true.

Your Buick looks great, by the way. It's a very well-turned out model. And in some respects, it's BETTER than some of my own work. Concepts like "better" don't make me feel I'm the victim of a "measuring contest". Rather, they make me want to improve my own skills, where applicable.  

Edited November 7, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[StevenGuthmiller]

Not surprised this topic has turned into the usual measuring contest by the same old suspects  

I don't see any "measuring" either.

I see discussion.

That's why we're here, to discuss.

 

Steve

[Snake45]

Frankly, I would much prefer to use airbrush, if the color I want/need is available in a bottle paint.

But I'm okay with a can if that's all I can get. Yah, I know, I could decant from the can and shoot through the airbrush, but I find that whole process to be a big stinky PITA.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Frankly, I would much prefer to use airbrush, if the color I want/need is available in a bottle paint.

But I'm okay with a can if that's all I can get. Yah, I know, I could decant from the can and shoot through the airbrush, but I find that whole process to be a big stinky PITA.

I agree.

I use my airbrush for a very large percentage of my projects, but if it's a simple basic color like black, red or white, it's just as easy to shoot it from a can.

Plus I don't have to clean my airbrush.

I've never quite gotten the whole decanting thing either.

Airbrush paints are available in a much larger array of colors than rattle cans.

Why mess with the whole process?

Why not just get the color you want in airbrush paint?

Yeah, I know, the whole economic thing.

 

Steve

[moparfarmer]

Cool Hand... WOW  what a beauty..I use the cleaner only its in a maroon container but the Hi Tech is silicone based..I use it on my 1:1 64 Fury Convertible..Sure is nice stuff..Oh, and did I say, your Buick is awsome...?

 

[Pete J.]

I agree.

I use my airbrush for a very large percentage of my projects, but if it's a simple basic color like black, red or white, it's just as easy to shoot it from a can.

Plus I don't have to clean my airbrush.

I've never quite gotten the whole decanting thing either.

Airbrush paints are available in a much larger array of colors than rattle cans.

Why mess with the whole process?

Why not just get the color you want in airbrush paint?

Yeah, I know, the whole economic thing.

 

Steve

Steve, I get were you are coming from and can't disagree but there are some reasons I decant paint.  I really like shooting Tamiya lacquer through an air brush, but I also admit that I  am cheap in many ways.  Rattle cans annoy me in that you leave 1/2 to 3/4 of an ounce in the can if you just toss it when it is done and that annoys me.  Second, when I screw up and need to fix something in  a paint job, I like the control I get with an air brush so that I can spot paint little areas.  I have also discovered that I get almost twice the coverage with my air brush.  There is far less overspray than with a rattle can, especially Tamiya's cans.  They really put out a lot of volume.  Finally, I use a lot of their red's, yellows, and mica paints.  In each case, they are either translucent or transparent.  Controlling that paint to get even colors is much easier for me.   It is also easier to get the undercuts on bodies with an air brush without putting too much paint on the body. 

Yeah, I don't like the extra minute or two it takes to clean the air brush and I am going to say something that is going to raise and eyebrow.  I like being able to put my brush down and walk away with it loaded for as much as over night, if I am going to recoat.  I just clean off the tip with a Q-tip and thinner and walk away.  Most people don't think of this, but a properly adjusted airbrush is sealed and the paint will not dry in it as long as it is full. 

So, perhaps this doesn't convince you to decant, but it is some of the reasons I do it.  Oh and yes, I can mix it to change colors but you already mentioned that.  

[Snake45]

I agree.

I use my airbrush for a very large percentage of my projects, but if it's a simple basic color like black, red or white, it's just as easy to shoot it from a can.

Plus I don't have to clean my airbrush.

I've never quite gotten the whole decanting thing either.

Airbrush paints are available in a much larger array of colors than rattle cans.

Why mess with the whole process?

Why not just get the color you want in airbrush paint?

Yeah, I know, the whole economic thing.

 

Steve

I WISH I still had access to the complete Model Master line in bottles in enamel. I don't, just what they have at Hobby Lobby. HL has more colors available in cans than bottles, so I've been using many of those the last few years.

Yeah, I know everything is available mail-order, but I find that enormously inconvenient. The money is less important to me than the time. I've used MCW paints in the past and will again, meanwhile, I'm working with what I have available locally.

BTW, I don't find cleaning the airbrush to be any inconvenience whatsoever. I keep a screw-on bottle of lacquer thinner ready. Soon as I finish a color, I spray it all out of the airbrush, screw on the thinner, and spray that till it comes out clear. Done! I'll detail-strip and clean the thing out maybe once a year.

Edited November 8, 2016 by Snake45

[StevenGuthmiller]

Steve, I get were you are coming from and can't disagree but there are some reasons I decant paint.  I really like shooting Tamiya lacquer through an air brush, but I also admit that I  am cheap in many ways.  Rattle cans annoy me in that you leave 1/2 to 3/4 of an ounce in the can if you just toss it when it is done and that annoys me.  Second, when I screw up and need to fix something in  a paint job, I like the control I get with an air brush so that I can spot paint little areas.  I have also discovered that I get almost twice the coverage with my air brush.  There is far less overspray than with a rattle can, especially Tamiya's cans.  They really put out a lot of volume.  Finally, I use a lot of their red's, yellows, and mica paints.  In each case, they are either translucent or transparent.  Controlling that paint to get even colors is much easier for me.   It is also easier to get the undercuts on bodies with an air brush without putting too much paint on the body. 

Yeah, I don't like the extra minute or two it takes to clean the air brush and I am going to say something that is going to raise and eyebrow.  I like being able to put my brush down and walk away with it loaded for as much as over night, if I am going to recoat.  I just clean off the tip with a Q-tip and thinner and walk away.  Most people don't think of this, but a properly adjusted airbrush is sealed and the paint will not dry in it as long as it is full. 

So, perhaps this doesn't convince you to decant, but it is some of the reasons I do it.  Oh and yes, I can mix it to change colors but you already mentioned that.  

I understand that people have their reasons for decanting, I've just never found the need to do it myself.

Scratch that.

I did it once recently.

I sprayed a body with Duplicolor red from a can & wanted to save a little of the same color for doing an over spray on the chassis, so I decanted a little into a jar.

Other than that, I buy 90% of my paint premixed & thinned for airbrush, so I've never had the need or desire to do much decanting.

I've left my airbrush without cleaning for an hour or so between coats, but anything more than that & something in my brain says "must clean airbrush"!

I know it wouldn't hurt to let it go longer.

Just a psychosis of mine I guess.

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

I WISH I still had access to the complete Model Master line in bottles in enamel. I don't, just what they have at Hobby Lobby. HL has more colors available in cans than bottles, so I've been using many of those the last few years.

Yeah, I know everything is available mail-order, but I find that enormously inconvenient. The money is less important to me than the time. I've used MCW paints in the past and will again, meanwhile, I'm working with what I have available locally.

BTW, I don't find cleaning the airbrush to be any inconvenience whatsoever. I keep a screw-on bottle of lacquer thinner ready. Soon as I finish a color, I spray it all out of the airbrush, screw on the thinner, and spray that till it comes out clear. Done! I'll detail-strip and clean the thing out maybe once a year.

I use a lot of Model Master paints as well for interiors, engines, etc.

But for bodies I prefer lacquer & I love the variety that guys like MCW offer.

I remove the needle & tip & clean them every time that I clean my airbrush.

Then I quickly brush out the inside of the body.

Only takes a few seconds & it reassures me that I will not get a tiny fleck of dried red paint in that next perfect white paint job I'm trying to lay down.

 

Steve

[Pete J.]

I use a lot of Model Master paints as well for interiors, engines, etc.

But for bodies I prefer lacquer & I love the variety that guys like MCW offer.

I remove the needle & tip & clean them every time that I clean my airbrush.

Then I quickly brush out the inside of the body.

Only takes a few seconds & it reassures me that I will not get a tiny fleck of dried red paint in that next perfect white paint job I'm trying to lay down.

 

Steve

I'm with Steve on the cleaning.  If I am changing from one dark color to another, without any delay, like a brown to green camo, I will spray thinner through after the first and carry on spraying with a new color.  Having said that, most auto paint jobs I do, I won't risk a tiny flake of another color that is left over coming out an messing up the paint.  Once I am done with a color, I break it down all the way and clean it.  I use a set of tiny brushes to clean everything out.  It only takes a few minutes for me to do it.  Oh, an one thing I learned not too long ago, I lubricate the needle every time.  There are several manufactures of airbrush lube.  The easiest for me to find is Iwata's lube.  A tube seems to last forever.  Just a tiny bit on the needle before reinsertion lubes the seal and keeps it tight.  I don't know what is in the lube, but it doesn't interact with any paint I have ever used and that includes solvent base lacquers and enamels, two and three part urethanes and water based acrylics.

[shucky]

Duplicolor primer, color, and clear. Topped with Testors 1 shot clear and rubbed out with Scratch X (that stuff is amazing)

[Pete J.]

Ok, since no one took me up on critiquing the paint on my model, in a effort to help people look a little more critically at their own work, here is what I see. Frankly, this model has some nice things, but as I said it will never make it off my shelf.  It is not to a standard that I prefer.  I hope this helps others look critically at their models and learn how to make them better.

[Harry P.]

You forgot to mention the Red Bull logo crossing over the door panel line. Would never happen in real life.

[Hawk312]

All done with spray cans. The blue stock car was done with Lowes Valspar and Rustoleum:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

All done with spray cans. The blue stock car was done with Lowes Valspar and Rustoleum:

 

Man, now THAT is some PAINT.  

[Ace-Garageguy]

Ok, since no one took me up on critiquing the paint on my model, in a effort to help people look a little more critically at their own work, here is what I see. Frankly, this model has some nice things, but as I said it will never make it off my shelf.  It is not to a standard that I prefer.  I hope this helps others look critically at their models and learn how to make them better.

It's good of you to use your OWN work to illustrate flaws and things people should try to pay attention to. A very genuinely helpful gesture.  

[Pete J.]

You forgot to mention the Red Bull logo crossing over the door panel line. Would never happen in real life.

ummm, not necessarily true.

Edited November 10, 2016 by Pete J.