Do you use a Hot Box to dry paint?

[MikeMc]

I've read all this....I know my $30. dehydrator works well, and I can dial in any temp I need.....The 20 coats of high gloss enamel speak wonders.

No orange peel, high gloss...this is right out after drying on an old Tamiya can...NOPE no wax or polish.

Edited April 9, 2012 by MikeMc

[CadillacPat]

Mike the Ovens have nothing to do with a quality paintjob.

Proper prep, mixing, layering and spraying make a quality paintjob, and your job looks fine.

The Ovens are used to speed up the process.

CadillacPat

[MikeMc]

Mike the Ovens have nothing to do with a quality paintjob.

Proper prep, mixing, layering and spraying make a quality paintjob, and your job looks fine.

The Ovens are used to speed up the process.

CadillacPat

And HEAT lets the solvents out of the paint...110 degrees is 110 degrees ....My point is 20 coats of enamel dry overnight in a simple dehydrator. Some of your ovens are as big as my bench!

[CadillacPat]

That's why I show people to build an Oven at the size they need.

My Ovens dry colorcoats in minutes and HOK Urethane Clear in an hour.

I know a few other guys using a dehydrator, mostly because they don't want to build their own Oven.

110 degrees is room temperature here in Houston, not much help in assisting paint to dry quicker than just siting in the open air.

My Ovens operate in my Shop where temperatures can fluctuate between 55 degrees and 110.

The Ovens give me the edge I need for a constant temperature.

If it works for you then great.

Do you have a picture showing how you place your Model in the Dehydrator so that the fresh paint does not touch anything.

Assurance that the paint does not get touched while handling the Model going in and out of the Oven is of utmost priority.

I would not want the Dehydrator for the fact that it circulates air, and circulating air which can carry dust, is not what I want in curing my Models.

CadillacPat

Edited April 9, 2012 by CadillacPat

[MikeMc]

That's why I show people to build an Oven at the size they need.

My Ovens dry colorcoats in minutes and HOK Urethane Clear in an hour.

I know a few other guys using a dehydrator, mostly because they don't want to build their own Oven.

110 degrees is room temperature here in Houston, not much help in assisting paint to dry quicker than just siting in the open air.

My Ovens operate in my Shop where temperatures can fluctuate between 55 degrees and 110.

The Ovens give me the edge I need for a constant temperature.

If it works for you then great.

Do you have a picture showing how you place your Model in the Dehydrator so that the fresh paint does not touch anything.

Assurance that the paint does not get touched while handling the Model going in and out of the Oven is of utmost priority.

I would not want the Dehydrator for the fact that it circulates air, and circulating air which can carry dust, is not what I want in curing my Models.

CadillacPat

Hard to shoot pictures when I put it on the base rack...still on my Tamiya rack, put 4 or 5 rings on base, cover. As mine is a convection type no fan or motor, holes vent excess heat and as I have a dimmer set to it, voltage and temp are adjustable. I shoot mainly HOK and am ready to tape off for second color in a couple of hours. I live way south in FL and 90 is the norm...also the normal humidity. I use the dehydrator to stop blush and to shoot and clear multi color jobs in a day...

I posted that 48 enamel job as a great reason to speed up dry time..... I know a resin body will warp at 110...so how can you even use resin bodys in your dryers?

[CadillacPat]

Thanks Mike,

That's easy, I have more than enough DieCast and Plastic that I've never even considered anything made of Resin.

Remember, the majority of what I do is Promotional Customs and I buy quantities of a single piece to produce Series' and Runs.

Easy enough though, I would just unscrew a portion of the lightbulbs or use lower wattage as stated already.

Still unclear if you are holding the Tamiya can while painting the Model or if you are using something else and then transferring the Model to the top of the can.

The short Tamiya can doesn't give your hand much room for setting down a freshly painted Model.

My Ovens are designed to accept the Paint Stands I use.

Models stay securely attached to the Paint Stands all through the paint process.

There is never any chance of painted edges touching anything and I always like to paint my subjects inside and out.

With House Of Kolor Urethane Clear I shoot less than 5 coats and I have never had to polish anything, especially with the use of heated Ovens.

Like you appear to be, I am a big fan of Green colors with Pearl.

CadillacPat

[sportandmiah]

Harbor Freight has a dehydrator for $14.00 after coupon. Best money I have ever spent! Enamel paint dries in a couple days versus couple weeks.

The Mr Hobby oven is nice but overrated. It is made primarily for acrylics, as it only runs for 15 minutes or so before it shuts off.

[Hedgehog]

Guys where can I see how cadillac build the pat oven????? It sounds good to have this tool on hand.

[CadillacPat]

Guys where can I see how cadillac build the pat oven????? It sounds good to have this tool on hand.

Hedgehog I tried to post enough pictures to show how my Ovens look inside and out.

If you can nail a box together and twist a few wires then you can build one of my Fact-O-Bake Ovens.

Just begin with a base area measurement (floor or bottom) that will allow you to place your largest model inside the booth without possibly touching any of its freshly painted eges.

I'd allow 4" on either end of the Model, (Model length plus 8") for the width and the depth of the floor piece.

Figure on a heighth measurement of at least 16" to 21".

I have a Tutorial showing how to build one of my CadillacPat Fact-O-Bake Ovens using a single 10" x 1" x 12" board but so many DieCast Customizing sites have bitten the dust that some of my Tutorials have to be reposted to keep them alive.

Here's a couple more pics of my largest Oven,

If you have more questions feel free to ask.

CadillacPat

[Hedgehog]

Thank u Cadillac. My first question, what kind of lightbulb should I use and how many for a medium box. Second one, what kind of glass is the one used so the heat doesn't goes straight to the painted parts?. Third and maybe not last LOL, how long I should leave my painted parts in the paint booth. One more just popped up hahaha, sorry guys, does the paint booth have an opening to let the gases out while it's on?? Hope I didnt put u to sleep.

[CadillacPat]

Thank u Cadillac. My first question, what kind of lightbulb should I use and how many for a medium box. Second one, what kind of glass is the one used so the heat doesn't goes straight to the painted parts?. Third and maybe not last LOL, how long I should leave my painted parts in the paint booth. One more just popped up hahaha, sorry guys, does the paint booth have an opening to let the gases out while it's on?? Hope I didnt put u to sleep.

First I have a question,

What do you mean by a medium box? What are your measurements?

The glass is regular window glass, 1/4"

Drying time will vary depending on what you paint, the size of the object, how much paint you use, and if you place the painted parts near the floor of the Oven or standing up on the end of a paint stand.

The lightbulbs are incandescent. I use 75 watt or 100 watt

There are no gases emerging from the booth.

If you were to place and leave an open can of paint or reducer in the Oven, then you would slowly generate gases.

I design these Ovens so anyone can build one. Once built you will have to determine the wattage of bulbs you use.

If the floor area of your "medium" Oven is 2' square I would install 2 or 3 of the Porcelain Light Receptacles in the roof.

You can twist the bulbs On or Off to adjust the temperature up or down.

CadillacPat

[Dr. Cranky]

Still am enjoying the conversation and all the ideas and discussion. Thank you all.

[Hedgehog]

Thanks Cadillac. You gave those tips. Now that I've got those material. I think I forgot something important. What material do you recommend to use to build the box of? Which one to cover the inner walls and do I need any other material (fan)??? Thank u for the time taken.

[CadillacPat]

Hedgehog,

All that info is already in the posts I've made.

You're welcome,

CadillacPat

[deja-view]

I never use anything that causes the surface of the paint to dry faster than the paint can gas out. I have tried quite a few "oven" methods over the years but the problem was always the same --- dry surface, uncured underneath. That causes paint to shrink back for a long time after you think it's dry.

That said, I live in a dry..and usually warm to hot...climate. If I paint in the winter I warm up the garage and keep the temp at a normal level until I'm done. I do a lot of painting outside if there's no pollen in the air (eliminates about 30-60 days in spring and 30 in the fall) because it's generally 70-100 on my back patio. But I do use a special box (boxes) that is shallow rather than high and deep. That way I can get at the sides and lower sections without moving the pieces or body parts. But, almost all my builds are large scale and wouldn't fit into most oven-shape boxes.

One of my best paint boxes is from a Pocher Mercedes I built almost 20 years ago. I line the box with aluminum foil or waxed butcher paper, then after I have placed my mounts and holders for the parts I spray the entire inside with a light mist coat of Krylon clear. That pulls all the dust out of the air and glues it to the box surface. The box is sitting on a turntable so I dont have to walk around and stir up dust or anything else.

I use regular household A/C filters that fit over the top of the open box. I also shoot a mist coat of clear onto the filter to catch any dust. The filter/lid stays in place until I set the parts and/or body, then after spraying the color coats I immediately lay the filter on top and again mist the outside of it. I can either let it sit and breathe naturally, or turn on the overhead fan from the patio cover (or large stand up fan in the garage) to gently push air across the top of the box. Not enough to actually "dry" the paint because it is protected by the filter, but it takes the fumes away and lets the paint gas out better.

I almost NEVER have dust or crud in my paint, no matter how slowly it dries.

[CadillacPat]

I never use anything that causes the surface of the paint to dry faster than the paint can gas out. I have tried quite a few "oven" methods over the years but the problem was always the same --- dry surface, uncured underneath.

That causes paint to shrink back for a long time after you think it's dry. What????????????

Deja,

The only condition that will create a skin on top of liquid underlying paint is extreme COLD, and if you are pouring on too much cheap Enamel.

If you mix your paints properly (you don't say what kind of paint you use or if you AirBrush or Rattlecan) and lay down your layers properly, you won't get paint all caked up with a dry skin but underlying gel.

I honestly can't fathom how you run into this dilemma.

When paint gases out the reducers vaporize bringing the paint to the surface. If you are pouring on Rattlecan Enamels I can see you getting a thick gel like skin. But as I have said before, proper layers of paint are super thin, almost negligibly thin.

And again, if you are proceeding correctly from layer to layer, beginning with Primer, Basecoat, Colorcoat, Candy and Clear, each layer will be ready for the next coat of paint.

Remember there is a method (time window) for laying down layers of paint for correct adhesion.

That said, I live in a dry..and usually warm to hot...climate. If I paint in the winter I warm up the garage and keep the temp at a normal level until I'm done. I do a lot of painting outside if there's no pollen in the air (eliminates about 30-60 days in spring and 30 in the fall) because it's generally 70-100 on my back patio. But I do use a special box (boxes) that is shallow rather than high and deep. That way I can get at the sides and lower sections without moving the pieces or body parts.

I think you are now talking about Paint Booths not Ovens.

But, almost all my builds are large scale and wouldn't fit into most oven-shape boxes.

Really, how big, what scale?? Fact-O-Bake Ovens can be built in any size. I came up with mine from remembering the 1:1 Fact-O-Bake Ovens.

One of my best paint boxes is from a Pocher Mercedes I built almost 20 years ago. I line the box with aluminum foil or waxed butcher paper, then after I have placed my mounts and holders for the parts I spray the entire inside with a light mist coat of Krylon clear. That pulls all the dust out of the air and glues it to the box surface. The box is sitting on a turntable so I dont have to walk around and stir up dust or anything else.

Yeah, I think you're talking about Paint Booths again, not Ovens.

But you do touch on one thing I like to tell people about their Paint Booths.

Before I begin AirBrushing I vacuum and then spray my paint booth down with any cheap Enamel RattleCan.

This tacks down any possible dust I miss when vacuuming.

Here's a pic of my Paint booth sprayed down with Grey that someone (I think earlier in this thread) misunderstood for dust,

I use regular household A/C filters that fit over the top of the open box. I also shoot a mist coat of clear onto the filter to catch any dust. The filter/lid stays in place until I set the parts and/or body, then after spraying the color coats I immediately lay the filter on top and again mist the outside of it. I can either let it sit and breathe naturally, or turn on the overhead fan from the patio cover (or large stand up fan in the garage) to gently push air across the top of the box. Not enough to actually "dry" the paint because it is protected by the filter, but it takes the fumes away and lets the paint gas out better.

Raising the temperature IS what assists in curing paint.

I even warm the HOK before I put in my AirBrush paint cup which helps with atomization, and everyone is aware of warming RattleCans before using them.

I have to say all that moving filters around and spraying water counters my view of protecting an in progress paintjob.

You turn your Garage Fan on to move air around the room???????????????????????????????????? Wait a minute!!!!!!!!!!

I almost NEVER have dust or crud in my paint, no matter how slowly it dries.

Once again, someone who is not concerned with the amount of time it takes a model to dry, or someone who is just shooting one color, can easily just sit back and forget about it until the Model dries, days or even weeks if using some Enamels.

But, if you're doing tapejobs for multiple colors, or have a large order to complete, or like to move on to the next step without waiting, or like the way paint flows out in a warm Oven, then applying a little heat in a dust free environment (Oven) will work wonders for your paintjobs.

CadillacPat

[Dr. Cranky]

Looks like a well worn and well used spray booth.

[deja-view]

1/12 and 1/8 scale are hard to paint in cubicles. That's why I choose my method. My experience in over 50 years of painting models is that using moving air to dry the paint causes the top to dry and not allow the paint underneath to dry or gas out at the same rate. Maybe I wasn't clear. I use only rattle cans so my paint is going on a little heavier than airbrush to begin with. And, yes....I can wait as long as my patience holds out before I have to move a model that is in final dry. That's obviously an advantage over doing constant or mass paintings.

I also use automotive paints that need to be completely gassed out so they don't eat back to the plastic. I've only had one self-destruct (a 1/8 '65 Corvette with Plasti-Kote metallic green on it) because I set it in the sun for what I thought was a short time. Not short enough. And one other 1/8 '65 Vette that I used Rust-Oleum primer on. It destroyed the plastic.

[CadillacPat]

1/12 and 1/8 scale are hard to paint in cubicles. That's why I choose my method. My experience in over 50 years of painting models is that using moving air to dry the paint causes the top to dry and not allow the paint underneath to dry or gas out at the same rate.

The paint underneath should already be dry before you lay down any more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

50 years or more of model building experience appears to be common on this site. Many here have that.

But first you said it was an Oven's heat that you did not like so you chose moving air to give you your desired results.

Maybe I wasn't clear.

That's true, First you claimed the heat to be the reason you don't use an Oven and now you say it is circulating Air that prevents you from wanting one. It is rather unclear. No big deal.

I use only rattle cans so my paint is going on a little heavier than airbrush to begin with. And, yes....I can wait as long as my patience holds out before I have to move a model that is in final dry. That's obviously an advantage over doing constant or mass paintings.

Not so much an advantage, since you say you aren't equipped for doing more than 1 piece at a time, more like a simple fact.

Some people do more and some do less.

I also use automotive paints that need to be completely gassed out so they don't eat back to the plastic.

So do you use only RattleCans or only these odd automotive paints you mention??

How much gas is in these "automotive paints" you say you use?????????????????

What brand are those "automotive paints" that are eating your Models????????????????

I've only had one self-destruct (a 1/8 '65 Corvette with Plasti-Kote metallic green on it) because I set it in the sun for what I thought was a short time. Not short enough. And one other 1/8 '65 Vette that I used Rust-Oleum primer on. It destroyed the plastic.

Okay Deja, as I always say, if you are content with the results that is all that counts.

I deduced from your first reply that you were using rattle cans way too thick and you've stated that is true.

I think cutting back on the amount of paint you lay down would surely help you in defeating your problem.

But,

Paint is not chemically formulated to dry from the top down, it dries and cures from the bottom up.

CadillacPat

[Rick Forrester]

WHAT KIND OF PAINTS AND HOW LONG TO DRY IN THE BOX. MY BE INTERESTED INBUILDING ONE.

[CadillacPat]

WHAT KIND OF PAINTS AND HOW LONG TO DRY IN THE BOX. MY BE INTERESTED INBUILDING ONE.

Rick,

Just consider how long it's taking your paint to cure without using one of these Ovens and cut that time down to a fraction.

Any and all Paint curing (Petroleum based, water based or waterborne, lacquers) will be speeded up exponentially.

Curing times will vary from type of paint to the total wattage of lightbulbs you use.

I've already mentioned in the thread how quickly my House Of Kolor Paint and Clear take to cure.

CadillacPat

[deja-view]

Pat; I use ONLY rattle cans because I just never wanted to fool with the cleanup of a gun. My results seem to be considered pretty well excellent based on the awards and comments I have received over the years, so I think I have set up the best system for my methods. When it comes to enamel I never let the last coat dry completely. Even the instructions on virtually all cans say to lay the next coat withing XX minutes OR after 48 hours. The only reason I would wait 48 hours is if my last coat(s) were not smooth and even, then I would have to wait and do some sanding.

I use everything from the standard Testor's and Tamiya spray to Plasti-Kote, Dupi-Color, Krylon, and some Rust-Oleum if I have a good barrier. I search for the color I want first, then mfgr after that. My coats start light, then get heavier as I go. Usually, I never need more than 3 coats total because the last is laid fairly wet. Same with clear, but I like enough to be able to polish until I get my preferred depth without breaking through to the color coat. I do spray multiple parts in a box (doors, hood, trunk, body) all at once if I can to make sure they all are the same, but it's not that hard to tell since my spraying method is always the same. I have stripped parts and started over if I don't like the result, though.

About the fan(s): If I shoot on the back patio I use the large patio cover fan that sits directly above to move the fumes away a little quicker, but since the model is under the filter(s) the air around the painted parts isn't really moving. I have used regular fans on stands to blow gently across the top of the box/filter if I shoot in the garage. My garage is a 3-car so there's plenty of open space, and I use a 20" exhaust fan if I'm shooting a whole body. I set the box on a prop like a platic covered trash can so I can get it to at least waist height. Again, the fan only moves the fumes away from the model, but doesn't really move around it because of the filters.

It's a method I have perfected over the years, but I'm not saying it's any better than your method. I like having open access to what I spray from above rather than at the side/front. Actually, laquers and enamels dry differently.

Edited April 23, 2012 by deja-view

[dustym]

What can you use when the incandesent bulb goes away? Those new type do not put out any heat.

[CadillacPat]

What can you use when the incandesent bulb goes away? Those new type do not put out any heat.

I wouldn't worry about that, incandescent lightbulbs are not going to disappear.

CadillacPat

[deja-view]

"Psssssst. Hey, Buddy. Yeah, you. Over here. Wanna buy some 100 watters? Only 5 bucks each. You're not an EPA cop are you?"