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So if you had a choice of paint brands which would you pick?


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try going to a local bodyshop,...they always have bits of paint daily that don't get used, and they usually throw it away anyway. most shops now use water base paint, and it works fine. take a small bottle with you and ask them for some flow agent to thin it for an air brush. it sprays realy nice and you can flash each coat with your air brush by fan spraying. then clear with whatever suits you. i have used everything from automotive urathane clear to spray can clear to future floor polish with good results.

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Typically I use Testor's. Since I'm usually closest to a Hobby Lobby, it's just easier to run in there when I need paint. I've used Duplicolor a few times and their paints work really well. I'd be tempted to use them again. Now that there's a Hobbytown USA nearer my home, I may start trying the Tamiya paints.

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Here in the Lab-RAT-ory we use the following:

PRIMER: EXCLUSIVELY PLASTIKOTE (in all its different colors)

PAINTS: Testors, House of Kolor, Auto Air, Nail Polish Lacquers, Vallejo Model Air, AK-INTERACTIVE

CLEARS: DuPont Spot Acrylic Clear and Testor's Enamel Clear

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Depending on what I am doing, what I use:

PRIMER: Tamiya gray and white primer - always warmed before spraying directly from rattle can

PAINT: Testors, Humbrol, Model Master and nail polish - always warmed

CLEAR: Wet look clear

THINNER: Lacquer Thinner for thinning enamel for airbrush and cleaning airbrush and brushes. Mineral Spirits for thinning brushed on paints and washes.

WASHES: Mineral spirits for enamel paints, alcohol for inks

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Wow! Bringing back an ancient thread!

I own two air brushes but exclusively use rattle cans. I like Duplicolor automotive paints, which I use for most everything. I like to spray vs brush, so I will mount up even the smallest parts to spray them. I will also tape things off etc, to get the sprayed even finish. I also like a couple of Testors products. I use their Dullcote extensively since I do a lot of weathering. I also like the Metalizer line of metal finishes.

I use Duplicolor primers for everything. I will try a variety of flat greys and flat blacks as even the cheap brands give different tones when I need to distinguish chassis or interior parts etc.

I've bought a few Tamiya paints but don't have a lot of experience with them at this point.

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For me I use Tamiya spray cans and acylic for airbrushing and hand brushing.

I know Tamiya spray cans are a little pricey but I have always got great results from it. I will use Testors enamel when I cannot find a color in the Tamiya line I want to use. Using light mist coats and allowing lots of time to dry good results can be had with Testors.

Occasionally I will use Krylon for semi-gloss black.

The other paint I use is Alclad for chrome and metallic pieces.

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Paint

For Air Brush, Scale Finishes all the way

Cans- Tamiya, Model Master Lacquer, and sometimes cheap wally world paint or Krylon

Primer- Now Tamiya,Duplicolor, wally world color palace primer

Clear- Mr Hobby Clear(hard to get in the states), Model Master Ultra clear and One coat Lacquer , one day I will start A/B clear coats

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For me it comes down to the color I need. 75% of the time it's duplicolor for sprays. For most everything else it comes down to what I can get easily. as I prefer not to have to mail order paint / supplies unless I absolutly can't find something local (that hasn't happend yet )

For brush paint is whats readily avail locally 99% of the time , and thats Testors . Haven't tried any other brands

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  • 1 month later...

80% tamiya, 10% model master lacquers, and 10% enamels either by airbrush or rattle can.

If anybody has issues with Tamiya laying down smooth, they're probably not doing something right. you can get it to go down REALLY smooth if the can is heated up properly. I use a chocolate melting device, but instead have water in it. once the can is the right temps, then shake really well and it goes down even smoother than what you'd expect from a rattle can. I can say this to be true for any rattle can.

For enamels, i make sure i have my food dehydrator available to help cure the paint. I either thin it down 1 part paint to 1 part thinner, and it airbrushes on great. If i'm using rattle can, i heat it up and it lays down smooth.

then i start wondering how i'm going to transfer the model from my paint stand to the dehydrator without touching the model. haha

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Exterior Paint- I ALWAYS use Rust-Oleum w/ Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Coat. Almost perfect finish every time with minimal polishing for the deep mirror finish.

Interior Paint- Testors as of right now. Given, I have heard that Tamiya is AWESOME to Brush on painting.

Here is a picture of Rust-Oleum Gloss Black Double Coverage. Flat Black base, 3 cover coats. No polishing, no clear coat, just Gloss Black.

IMG_20130415_133818_zps7d73dfbc.jpg

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I've tried many paints especially non specific paints to try and save some money. Dupli-color is good but in Wa. state the weather has to be good or it hazes over to easy. Tried Rust-Oleum and Krylon. I personally have given up on the this practice and use Tamiya and Model Masters only.

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I use whatever I can find that fits my needs. Nail polish, Scalefinishes, House of Kolor, Tamiya (mostly for interiors), Testors Model Masters lacquers, Duplicolor and PlastiKote. If I can thin it with lacquer thinner, I'll probably try to use it.

Edited by Tonioseven
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I use whatever I can find that fits my needs. Nail polish, Scalefinishes, House of Kolor, Tamiya (mostly for interiors), Testors Model Masters lacquers, Duplicolor and PlastiKote. If I can thin it with lacquer thinner, I'll probably try to use it.

I'll add mine to that list. Vallejo model air, Vallejo model color (interiors and detail painting, doesn't leave brush strokes)

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I like using Tamiya paint's, both rattle cans and bottled. I'm also starting to use Floquil paint's as well for weathering and some detail work. But after getting Donn Yost's painting CD's, I'm starting to get back into Testors enamels.

Edited by kitbash1
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