I need some tough paint!!!

[Harry P.]

I need a really tough paint...one that will stand up to a LOT of handling and still look good. I need black and ivory, so I'm thinking of epoxy appliance paint (well, maybe not ivory but "almond").

Has anyone used that type of paint on a model before? Is there a better alternative?

[Marc @ MPC Motorsports]

I would use your paint of choice and overcoat with two-part urethane clear. Can't get much tougher than that.

[Modelmartin]

What do you mean by a lot of handling? The toughest would be the Urethane that Marc mentioned but it all depends on how well your paint grips the model itself.

[Harry P.]

What do you mean by a lot of handling? The toughest would be the Urethane that Marc mentioned but it all depends on how well your paint grips the model itself.

I'm talking about a Pocher Alfa.

After the body is painted is when the fun starts. The seats are molded as part of the body shell, and they need to be upholstered with thin leather that's supplied in the kit...so I'm foreseeing a LOT of handling of the painted body during the interior upholstery phase. Same with the door inner panels. Then there's the installation of the finished painted and upholstered doors themselves, and installing the body onto the chassis (done with screws), where the body has to be flexed and finessed to fit over the chassis rails.

Because I KNOW the finished paint work will undergo a lot of handling, I figured epoxy appliance paint might be the way to go...because it's available in the colors I need, and because epoxy dries rock-hard and scuff/scratch resistant. But the urethane clearcoat might be a better way to go, because that way I have a wider variety of "ivory" to choose from. If I go that route I'll most likely use auto touch-up paint (Duplicolor).

[MrObsessive]

Harry, if you're worried about too much handling............you might want to consider getting some Parafilm. This stuff is what's used to seal lab beakers, and it's what I used when I built my Jaguar D-Type which was basically built from the inside out.

Parafilm is sold by MicroMark.com and it's great stuff! Just cover up the areas you'll be handling and you're good to go.

Of course, you want to make sure the paint is fully cured just the same. :wink:

[Harry P.]

Bill, I remember "Parapaque" blocking film from the old days (I'm a graphic artist)...so I assume Parafilm would be a similar self-adhesive type film. Sort of like airbrush frisket? (Which I have on hand).

No matter which type of paint I ultimately decide on, protecting it with Parafilm or frisket is a good idea.

Thanks to all for your suggestions!

[MrObsessive]

Hmmmm...................If I can remember frisket paper correctly, it might be a bit "scratchy" for excessive handling. IIRC, it seems kinda stiff.

Here's a link for Parafilm and a pic.........

Hope this helps! :wink:

[Guest Davkin]

Just how much will the body need to be flexed while installing it to the chassis? Urethane will crack if flexed too far unless you add flex additives to it. You might want to consider Krylon Fusion. I've used it on R/C bodies that really take a beating and it holds up great and flexes without any trouble.

David

[Modelmartin]

Another pitfall to watch out for is using different kinds of paints which may subsequently separate. Urethane over lacquer will be a problem. Sometimes a harder paint over brittle paint like lacquer will separate and come off in patches like old Ford Taurus' from the 80s! My advice is a good tough enamel and plan on a final polishing when assembly is complete. Flex is probably the critical quality you need. David's choice of Krylon Fusion is a good one. I would use any Krylon enamel or even Rustoleum decanted and airbrushed. Done right they are shiny as can be also.

[ramonesblues]

If you are worried about urethane clear separating from lacquer, spray a light coat of Dupont 222 adhesion promoter on it and your clear will never come off. I've used it for years and works with all kinds of paint.

[ramonesblues]

If you are worried about urethane clear separating from lacquer, spray a light coat of Dupont 222 adhesion promoter on it and your clear will never come off. I've used it for years and works with all kinds of paint.