itty bitty parts

[m408]

Just received some wire looms and carburetor linkage parts from detail master. Don't know why I thought that I could actually use them successfully, but now that I have them I'll try. lots of questions though.

1- Instructions say to "glue" them in place. Engine block and carbs are already painted. Do I need to scrape a tiny spot off to glue? And, what glue?

2- What gauge wire to use for carb linkage and how to secure it in place?

This the next step for me in super detailing. So far, have been happy to just run plug wires and battery cables! I have seen pictures of the models that you all build and just can't believe the detail. I now use a 2x illuminated bench light. Am I going to need more magnification?

[Olle F]

I use water based adhesives, usually Microscale Crystal Clear. First, I put a drop of it on the tip of a tooth pick and let it dry for a few minutes to make a handy tool to handle the parts. Then I use this tool to pick up the part (the glue will stay sticky for a while), put a small dab of the same glue where the part goes, then I carefully put the part on and adjust it while the glue is still wet. Sometimes, it's easier to let the glue set up for a minute or two, and then put the part on there by pressing it into the tacky glue. I prefer water based adhesives for this, as it's easier to clean up if you make a mess and have to redo it. It's also easy to clean up any excess glue with a small paintbrush dipped in water.

[bobss396]

For carb linkage, I try to use a small pin to hold them to the carb, looks more realistic. You can use a short piece of wire if you like. I'll use Tamiya X22 clear or a dot of CA glue to secure it.

For carb linkage I'll strip a piece of wire wrap wire most of the time. That conductor measures around .008-.010 in diameter. Craft stores sell spools of small gage wire too, already stripped. Something like 36 gage should be good for you.

Bob

[Harry P.]

You can also dab on a little spot of clear enamel and "glue" the parts with it...same way you would attach PE logos and scripts to the body.

[Steve H.]

Clear acrylics work well for glueing P/E. Future (being an acrylic also) floor wax qualifies too. Acrylics are easily cleaned up if you goof.

Tip for cutting P/E off runners... fold some tape sticky side up on your bench and stick the P/E to it... pieces won't go flying off into oblivion that way.

Any good craft store will have spools of craft wire... various sizes for various engine compartment detail.

[m408]

Clear acrylics work well for glueing P/E. Future (being an acrylic also) floor wax qualifies too. Acrylics are easily cleaned up if you goof.

Tip for cutting P/E off runners... fold some tape sticky side up on your bench and stick the P/E to it... pieces won't go flying off into oblivion that way.

Any good craft store will have spools of craft wire... various sizes for various engine compartment detail.

Thanks all. I think that I will experiment a little on some scraps and see what works best for me.